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      01-02-2013, 05:47 PM   #17
Brigadier General
uberschnell's Avatar

Drives: Wide Body 1
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bay Area

iTrader: (46)

OEM 264 wheels are pretty concave. Now picture that lip going another 15 mm out and you can imagine how concave a wheel could be.

The catch is you are going to need to get custom 2 piece wheels to achieve that.

Forged = more strength to support concave and the 2 piece lets the manufacturer mix the right face and barrel to get max concave. I've been looking into this now and trying at least a dozen wheels to find the best fit.

What I have found is fronts can never be too concave due to offsets and the need to clear the brakes. Brakes are not a problem in the back. The Ideal set up I've found fro concave is 9.5 wide with 255/35/18 tires, ET45. Rear's rolled and pulled (not flared) with some added negative camber. This is no rub set up during realistic driving, even on a dropped car. Not a "only on hard corners", or "only with 2 people in the car" set up, I mean no rubbing. See my photo below.

The face profile is going to be key. A hub needs at least 10mm of meat for the lugs, but no more. Some manufacturers like to have deep set lug holes or a deep dish in the center. What you need is a shallow center from which the spokes start from. A company like BC Forged can build you a set just like that. My BC forged should be here in a few weeks
Attached Images
- 08 135i - Wavetrac LSD, M3 front sway, Meyle HD links, Whiteline subframe bushings, M3 rear guide and upper link, M3 front control arms, HP custom M3 front Strut brace, Megan rear control arms, F30 brake shields -

Last edited by uberschnell; 01-02-2013 at 08:12 PM.