Steps I took to do this....
-Set rear parking brake
-Block front tires so car can't roll forward
-Remove ground terminal from battery (I'm paranoid of setting of an airbag or something)
-Jack up the rear of the car and support on blocks, best place to support is under rear jack spots
-Remove rear wheels
-Remove rear under body trays (guessing this is only needed for verts)
-Remove rear bracing (only for verts?)
-Remove rear diffuser (makes it easier to see, use the jacks, and remove exhaust)
-Remove cat back exhaust
-Disconnect rear brake lines (they are located on drivers side, will take a pick and post later)
-Remove brake sensor cables from their retaining clips...no need to unplug anything
-Remove e-brake lines from their retaining guides to create some slack...no need to un-attach them from calipers
-Use floor jack to raise control arm but leave access to lower shock mount
-Remove lower nut from shock
-Here is where I used 2 jacks, I put one under the control arm ( I used a quad lift that has a padded platform that worked very well). Put floor jack under rear control arm at shock mount and jack both of them up until the arm is compressed and that side of the car is still supported by the blocks.
-Remove the bolts and bracket for the front RSFB
-Remove the bolt and plate for the rear RSFB
-Slowly let the control arm down until you can remove the spring and you'll see you have plenty of remove to remove the bushings. Take the spring out...be careful...I don't want to read of anybody getting hurt or damaging their car because they released tension on the spring to fast.
-Now the fun part, leave the rear jack (my quad lift) under the control arm supporting it. Move the other jack to a good lift point (I'll try and take pics) near the front bushing.
-Put the 1/2" socket between the frame and bushing as shown
-Jack up both the control arm and that side of the RSF until you lift the car approx 1/4" off the support block
-Slowly and evenly heat the RSF around that bushing and watch the bottom of the bushing start start to appear
-As the car lowers itself back on to the block, jack it up another 1/4" and repeat until the bushing pops out.
-Viola, thoroughly grease the bushings ( I lubed the whole thing) and I found it easiest to put the top half in first with the metal bushing installed. Jack up the RSF to seat it (if needed) and then put the lower piece in place, I used a rubber mallet to get it started and then used the RSFB bolt and plate to seat it.
-Rinse and repeat until finished...not hard but be careful and don't burn anything. The gas tank is close by on the passenger side and don't burn your brake sensors or retaining clips.
Having not seen the M3 bushings, I don't know if you can use this method...the Powerflex rear bushings will be a bit more of a challenge but you could use Rob's bar method to keep them aligned while compressing them.
Thanks to him for his DIY illustrating things...it was a nice reference.
2008 AW E88 Auto
Current--AA FMIC--Running 100% E85 on my flash tune--BMS CP, DCIs, & OCC--M3 FSB, RCAs, & FCAs--ER OC--Fuelab IFP, FPR, & FF, and E85 CP injection--RB PCV--Whiteline RSFBs, and DBs--ER SS brakelines--Stoptech slotted rotors w/Ferodo pads--Apex Arc 8s w/Nitto NT05's--Wavetrac LSD -- Waiting on install: Rogue toe arms and Ohlins R&T (in route)
Last edited by SteveAZ; 02-25-2013 at 06:32 AM.