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      02-15-2013, 04:41 PM   #44

Drives: 135i Cab
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ

iTrader: (5)

Originally Posted by The Transporter View Post
Props on a what appears to be a job well done. Thank you for the writeup and please keep us informed of your impressions as you get to drive it more.

One thing I think might help, that I have not seen mentioned in discussions on this topic, is the trick of placing your bushings in the freezer overnight to shrink them ever-so-slightly to ease installation. I have used that trick on press-fit things like bearings and ball joints with positive results. It seems to me that it should be a similar effect to using heat on the subframe, without the risk of fire.

As for the're probably right, I use that technique to get my crankset bolts really tight on my race bikes so they don't squeak. However, the heat isn't used for install, only for removal and not bad, my stockers came out undamaged.

As for the question about the indy should be even quicker for them but I This would only take me 3 hours or less to do myself and no lift...then again it depends on how they remove them. My technique obviously wasn't on a lift but may be able to be done with those jack stands

I don't like anyone touching my car...seems they $&# it up every time...especially if they used fire

I think Dack got his done for 300 Euros
2008 E88--Fuel-It! Stage 4 LPFP & PI--PS2 turbos--JB4/MHD--FBO--662whp/604wtq
2011 E90--Fuel-It! S2BL LPFP and PI--PS2 Turbo--JB4/MHD--FBO--546whp/589wtq
2013 Mini JCW--Tune--DP--FMIC--a couple Fuel-It! goodies--265whp/320wtq
2013 F10--JB4/BM3
2015 F82--Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP & PI--PS2 Turbos-- JB4/BM3-FBO