[Sauce]

The biggest issue is always the driver, driving a car that understeers is actually a REALLY good thing to learn on. Learning how to rotate a car that may not want to is really, really valuable just as a very loose car can teach you a lot. It will make you understand what is happening and what to do. A 135 bone stock will rotate just fine if you do things perfectly.

When looking at the car, you ALWAYS want to start from the ground up, ALWAYS. I can't emphasize this enough. Any advice otherwise is wrong. The alignment and tires are the first thing. In your case, I'm sure you have street tires with tread on them, so start with the alignment. Camber plates on this car give you the adjustability necessary, toe is a beautiful thing in terms of turn in and rotation, you need to balance your priority on tire life and track prowess because on a street car it is all a compromise. Toe and camber are huge on track and will also dramatically reduce tire life on the street. Then tire size front to rear when you replace, again we are limited by our platform so fit as much rubber as you can. Also, free adjustment can be made to your chassis with tire pressure. Don't underestimate the impact this can have, you can't go by the general rule of thumb where more pressure lessens grip and less adds it. Figure out what works with your tires and talk to people that have experience with them on track. You may want to compromise exit traction for balance in the front but that is personal to you. Your suspension setup is dictated by these factors which is why you need to do them first. Alignments are never set and done, you play with them non stop especially as you change other factors.

After that you play with shocks, bushings and springs. Bushings on a street car are purely for compromise, you need to understand that. On a race car they are there (and metal) only to maintain your suspensions geometry at all cost, the less things move the more predictable the suspension is and the more efficiently it works. On a street car they balance noise and vibration with maintaining integrity. Just know that they my improve feel but until you are fighting for tenths and hundredths as a driver they will NOT make you faster. There are many schools of thought on shocks and springs, the main thing is that the two need to be put together with one another in mind. The better the tire is in contact with the ground, the better it will work. You can jack up rates and damping to balance a car, but understand you are doing that by DECREASING grip. The softest possible while maintaining body control is best, not vice versa.

Lastly you go to sway bars. They are a very fine adjustment tool in the grand scheme of things. You need to know the bigger the bar, the less independent your suspension is. Simply, what a sway bar does is transfer weight to the outside tire, faster. With an open diff as in our cars, you need to take care because this can lead to the inside tire lifting (think mk1 golf gti) and that means either spinning of that tire or absolutely no forward acceleration if it's all the way off the ground, both make the car unpredictable and slow.

I left out diffs and other very fine factors because you are not very far along and those are major changes that cost a lot of money. I would take a car that has seats, a perfect alignment with good tires over a car that has high dollar suspension stuff thrown together.