[Afam28]

Originally Posted by Petro135

You know it !!
So I was put on hold for awhile my docrace manifold cracked. AGAIN! I was told by docrace only the first few manifolds ever had cracking problems. I believe I was the 2nd or 3rd preorder. And they will send me a new one. No problem. Only problem it's been 3 weeks+ .
Also busy at work so engine build stalled. And once I got back at it, had major thread issues with arp studs. Our aluminum block just doesn't want to have these hard ass studs screwed into them. Anyway got all the 10 (m11)main cyl head bolts down to the 75ftlbs I needed to but the smaller front and back 2 just would spin at 50ft lbs. So I cleaned out the threads in the back 2 and they are fine to 30ftlbs and about 45 degrees. The front ones I had to tape off my motor and drill and insert helicoils. First one went down with 1 helicoil the second one I had to stack 2 on top of each other to get the stud to grab threads. And finally hit 30ftlbs and a slight angle and gave up there. My head is coming off again in a few months for a better one. Hopefully I'm good. Next time it comes off I'm drilling in an m11 conversion for those bolts. I don't trust them.
After that all went in great. I used zipties on cam ledges but was careful where they landed on the rockers, then wrapped 2 straps around engine and cranked them down until it was past the little ledge that can hold it up. Then slowly put down each bolt 1 by one until the proper valves were depressed. Avoiding buying the $300 valve tool.
Timing went up nicely. Spun her over two full turns and popped the cam locks and timing pin plate back on and it all lined up perfectly.
Engine back together, accessories going on. New plugs, 3 new injectors, all new cam, crank, lp, rail and temp sensors. Vanos is not new but only a few thousand miles since I got them. Rebuilt ofh. Changed from docrace crappy oil drain line to 10an.
Im thinking I'm gonna put engine back in the car this weekend then finish everything up little by little until the manifold arrives. Easy to get everything on the engine with the front clip removed.
No fancy valve cover for me, just oem with some extra spray paint I found in the basement. At least it's VHT.

So I was searching around and found an old iminhell post about the coolant tank relocations and he had a couple links for the correct fittings in it. I ordered a straight fitting for bottom of 335d coolant tank. The 90 with the angle the tank points created an huge hump in my line. So since I already have deleted heat exchanger I cut out the whole plastic hose that runs across the subframe and put the straight fitting off my heater hose on the thermostat end. Then tied the coolant line to the heater hose. Sound weird but it simplified everything. 1 line going straight down out of tank. T to heater and across to thermostat.
Thanks iminhell!!!

Wowzers…
Soon enough I will be doing a rebuild…
Just for the peace of mind…
This thread is inspiring!!!