Quote:
Originally Posted by dfv2
Few tips - for the fronts you only need to remove the pinch bolt, the three upper tower nuts and sway endlink connection to the strut. You then turn the wheel at full lock away from the side of the car you're on (clockwise turn for drivers side) and the strut assembly can be carefully pulled from the hub assembly. No need to remove the tie rod connection or leveling links. YMMV, but I've done this on a few 1'ers. Just push the caliper down with your foot to get the clearance you need.
For the rears, just pull the liner a bit there is no need to remove the whole thing.
Always work on the front with BOTH wheels at full droop, otherwise the sway will load the end links and be impossible to insert/remove without a struggle.
Enjoy!!
|
Worked perfectly. I replaced my control arms the first time, so I had to loosen those. The second time I realized I had the grooved washer, inside the top mount, upside-down and did your method and had no problems dropping the strut and out the wheel well with little force.
Also for anyone wondering about torque specs, I found them all in this video by by ECS Tuning:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810625. With that video and this DIY I felt pretty comfortable and had no problems, thanks!
One tip I want to share is that when loosening the knuckle around the front struts, instead of using a chisel, you can simply use a 6-8mm hex socket by pushing it between the gap and rotating it 1/4 with a breaker-bar which will safely spread the knuckle. It's basically the same thing as
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ader/ES198389/.