Quote:
Originally Posted by odj
I did the following recently, before hitting the track for three days:
(C0F_DIFF_LOCK wert_02 -> wert_00, wert_01; C0F_FBS (brake fading compensation) wert_01->wert_00; C0F_FLR (Power reduction to prevent brake disc overheating) wert_01 -> wert_00, wert_02; C0F_BB_RAB wert_01 -> wert_00)
and I can say that my previous brake issues have disappeared. I've got a linear pedal everywhere. It's great. I highly recommend.
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Big shout out to
BimmerGeeks for the coding today. We took care of the seat retrofit (passenger airbag sensor module), FBS and FLR. No diff coding because I am still open. Start to finish the remote coding took about 20 minutes.
R1wheelieforfun had coding done this weekend as well and also had a positive experience. Thank you again for the info.
Seatbelt coding for the warning light is not available (or possible) so the transplant of the factory receptacle onto the new seats (5 minute process) was a good idea for my application. Either plug your factory belt into the receptacle behind your new seat or order a dummy off eBay and leave it plugged.
Also of note, I also installed the Whiteline RSFB inserts as a stopgap ($45 on Amazon) until this winter/spring when I go for the Turner solids as recommended above (actually everywhere).
Whiteline insert tools needed:
- E18 female Torx (subframe bolts, tighten to 74 lb-ft) **most off-the-shelf kits stop at E16**
- socket extender (if your E18 socket is "short")
- 15mm socket (diagonal chassis brackets, good'n tight)
- 19mm socket (x-brace brackets, good'n tight)
- 2 jack stands (remove rear wheels for install)
- floor jack (to raise and lower RSF via the diff housing)
- no air tools? use breaker bar/long ratchet/short ratchet+jack handle to "start" the E18 bolts, after that they will loosen by hand
My bushings came without lube but were a very "slippery" texture out of the package. I was able to install them easily without any additional lube. There are many posts here in this forum on the install process which is very straightforward and took me just over 1 hour with zero experience manipulating the RSF.
Here is some info that was not straightforward in other posts from my perspective. The rear inserts are simple but for the fronts:
- Completely remove the single bolt holding the X-brace to the subframe
- Diagonal brackets bolt the RSF to the chassis with 2 bolts. Loosen the hard to reach bolt halfway and completely remove the easy to access bolt. This will allow for the diagonal bracket to swing out the way so you can lower the front of the RSF.
It was a humbling result. It is one thing reading about the improvement but feeling it?