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Originally Posted by Autobotvu
Remove the film protection
use foam gun with citrus wash to clean everything then I think i run water over the area I foamed, then wash with my mitt.
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Correct.
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do this to entire car then switch foam gun to a pressure add on
start on rims with water pressure than use p21s gel let it sit for a bit while spraying wells.
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the p21s is meant to break up road grime and brake dust. You most likely won't have this issue. Also, the product may be meant to be used on dry wheels. Check the directions before using. You can always spray the wheels down but you may be wasting product.
brush insides use small brusg for lugs then wash mitt clean use terminator for tar seal done. then rewash whole car I believe this is where I can start clay bar.[/quote]
You shouldn't have to rewash the car after your initial post-citrus wash. The idea is to get the body surface as free of debris as possible before claying. There shouldn't be anything on your panels that can be taken off with less than a claybar.
You've sort of skipped what you're planning to do with the clay. Again, since your car is new, there should be very little contamination in the paint. Use a detail spray and a latex glove to feel for embedded contaminants in the paint. The latex glove will allow you to feel them very easily and will not get any oils from your fingers on the paint.
If you feel any contaminants, run the clay over the paint until it comes off. Once that's done, inspect for any maaring left by the claying process. Repeat for every surface you are planning to seal with the opti-coat. I would suggest washing or at the very least using an IPA solution on the panels you've clayed to remove any leftover product from your claying at this point.
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Use PC with 105 meg and pink cutting pad i believe on low speed then switch to 205 and Cyan Light Cutting and Polishing Pad to finish the polish.
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The 105 is used to correct moderate defects. You most likely will not need to do this step. The 205 should only be used on panels that have imperfections left by the claying process or panels that have light defects from the shipping process. If you cannot see any imperfections in the paint (be sure to use PLENTY of light), there's no reason to polish. If you have moderate to heavy defects, that's unacceptable and should be professionally corrected (in my opinion).
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The I dunno if I need to wash the car again or I can go straight to sealing the paint with diamond then let sure for 12 hour ish then I dont know if I need to rewash car before wax or if I can just wax need to read up more or if someone can answer.
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You do not need to wash the car post-polish. The polish should be worked until it is completely gone. Learning the correct amount of polish to apply to the pad can be a pain, but if the polish is taking a long time to flash away, you may be using too much.
Post-polish, you're ready for the sealant. Apply it and use your PC or buff it off by hand. Please read the directions regarding both suggested application methods and curing time. Not allowing the sealant to properly sure before waxing may prevent the sealant from properly bonding with the paint, which drastically shortens the life of the applied product.