Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralf_135i
Not full track, yet... So 2.5 would be good for both track and street? Without destroying the tires too much? Haha.
|
If you use your street tires on track, the track will destroy them long before any street wear even shows, so you might as well do -3.0.
If you have separate track wheels and don't use your street tires on track, -3.0 will wear them much faster than normal. So how much money are we talking about? I'll guess $350 extra per year.
Or you can adjust the camber plates when you change the wheels. You can set up the camber plates so the toe and camber adjust together between street and track settings. The guys I've talked to who adjust camber at the track say it takes them five minutes a side. But most people don't think it's worth even that much time.
adding: Hoosier says you'll get best track performance around -3, but best compromise of performance and longevity closer to -2.5. So maybe I shouldn't say you might as well do -3 because the difference in track tire cost could be way more than $350 if you do a lot of events.