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      05-22-2012, 09:12 AM   #41
davemohan
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Drives: 135i
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SC

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I just finished installing Cool Carbon pads and had a few "tips". First, apologies, there are no photos. I went out to the garage planning to follow the instructions in this thread, so I didn't bring a camera. Second, all this applies to Cool Carbon pads. Others should be the same, but I haven't installed them.

First thing that I would highly recommend is to follow the advice in post #10 and remove the calipers with the mounting bracket attached. After starting to remove the 10mm allen bolts, it seemed apparent to me that they were not designed/assembled to be taken apart for regular maintenance like swapping pads. They are locked in TIGHT, and it doesn't get any better after the initial turn.

On the other hand, the 18mm hex bolt attaching the bracket to the knuckle breaks free with a turn or less (the 110nm torque is about the same as a lug bolt), then can literally be removed by spinning them with your fingers. (While supporting the caliper with your other hand.) They go back on just as easily; it really seems like this is what the engineers had in mind. It helps access to the back of the caliper if you turn the steering wheel all the way in the opposite direction.

Second thing is that there is no reason to remove ANY of the retaining pins. Again after starting to remove one and running into the same situation as the allen bolt, it seemed that these weren't really meant to be removed for simple maintenance.

If you look at the backing plate on the front pad, you will see a small (maybe 2cm) tab with a wedge shaped profile. This tab catches on the retaining spring.

To remove the old pads, first remove the caliper (with bracket). Then press the outside pad away from the pistons with your fingers. It takes a bit of pressure, then you will hear/feel the tab on the pad click over the retaining spring. Now just wiggle the pad free of the retaining pins. Repeat with the inside pad. (the bracket side)

To install the new pads, start with the inside pad. Angle it toward the "corner" of the inside piston face and the back of the caliper and hook it, just barely, over one of the retaining pins. Now press and wiggle it inward until the tab clicks over the retaining spring. Now you can press the pad slightly down to engage the second retaining pin. At this point, it can very easily be pressed into place over the pins and flat against the pistons.

Now repeat with the outside pad, then reinstall the caliper. The bolts again twist in with your fingers. They seem sturdy enough, and unstressed enough, to reuse, but that's strictly up to you. Someone said earlier that replacement is advised.

I would recommend doing the inside pad fist, otherwise you have less room to work with between the installed outside pad and the mounting bracket. I did it that way on the first side, it can be done, but it is easier to do the inside first. I fumbled with the first caliper for a while, but took about 20 minutes or so on the second, from removing the caliper to reinstalling it.
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