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      01-16-2013, 10:47 PM   #21
sparoz
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Drives: VO 1///M; Macan Turbo
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Talking about old thread revival.

Quote:
Originally Posted by koastal View Post
Murray Coote (MCA not proflex anymore)is awesome and will help set your suspension correctly.
Only catch is he will want to do it at the track. We all know that's not going to happen.

Just find out which is the most expensive and buy those !

Btw they are having a come and try hillclimb at mt cotton on Sunday
Great place to explore your cars abilities in a safe environment lol
Are they? I just spoke to Josh when they are going to be on the track next and he said he doesn't know?

Quote:
Originally Posted by skycat View Post
Well if you must, go with local support as setting up a race car is not like setting up your road / track day car.
There is a BLACK ART to this and unless you race a car offen you have no hope of getting the setup correct.
These top line systems will not work correctly if you havent done the soild subframe bushes, adjustable arms and sway bars etc. And dont forget the semi slick tyres.
If you dont do all this you are wasting or $$$$$$$$$$$$ and by the way it will drive like a brick on the road duck and dive all over the place.

But on the track what a dream total fun but dont forget that the little BIMMER
cant do more than 5 hot laps on a cold day. but thats another story

So why do you need the best shocks ?
Thanks Pete for the input, I will keep those in mind. Looks like a drive down to Landsborough is called for. I don't need the best shocks actually, just ones that will achieve what I want to achieve with the car. I will let you know how long the little bimmer will last - if it doesn't overheat in 5 laps may be I am not driving fast enough. .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
Waste of $$$

Buy a dedicated track car or turn your 1M into a dedicated track car. The KW kit 'beemer' in Sydney put on his with camber plates is a great compromise (http://www.autoevolution.com/news/km...ery-44822.html )
Yes to some people I am. However, I am getting a very big kick (and headaches) from all these parts, much more than if I would have bought a M3. I am still loving the car and excited every time I open the door and get in the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
I thought the ohlins was an equivalent to KW V3's?

Well that's the ohlins I had looked at anyway the R&T's for around $2.5K?
Yes, I am looking at the R&Ts as well but I am prepared to go to TTX front and rear. Beau seems to be very helpful and so is Murray but Murray needs to look at the car which I haven't found time for yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gazz View Post
I'm looking at suspension changes at present. Had a lengthy discussion with Beric Lynton's race car builder yesterday about my options.
BTW they are now fielding two cars for the 12 hour race. The second will be a 135 coverted to a 1M including all the bodywork, chassis changes etc.

At present I have Eibach sportline springs on the car but it needs different shocks as it is quite skittish over stutter bumps and the like. I will probably be changing the car back to stock springs then looking for a kit to change to.

As Skycat says, "There is a BLACK ART to this".

Some thing I hadn't thought of is - when altering the ride height the roll centre can be affected. I.e the static roll centre can go from above a pivot point to below. Dynamically though, the altered roll centre can move above the pivot point and cause a drastic change to the car's behaviour. Eg. think of heavy braking into a downhill corner with the front end roll centre below the pivot point and the light rear end above the pivot point. A nice recipe for snap oversteer, something the car is already prone to.

I do not any special have suspension knowledge, I am just passing on some info as I interpreted it as of yesterday. Plus, some things make logical sense.

He suggested a kit which has compression damping as well as rebound. Then play with sway bars to dial in the handling trait you want. I.e. understeer, oversteer or neutral. It's all very well saying you want throttle adjustable oversteer but are you good enough? I used to think I was good enough having raced a bit ( albeit on bikes )
but these days I'm looking for a little more margin for error so I will perhaps be aiming for neutral to understeer.

Beric's race car has a race KW kit fitted which was set up at the factory. They have done a fair amount of track development and are surprised at just how good the factory setting is.
Still looking at potentially KW, but I think using a local with the knowledge is important. However, I found a mechanic locally who used to be working with race cars setups too, but none would be better than Murray I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by koastal View Post
The point is moot
This vehicle is unlikely to ever see a racetrack
FYI, I have booked in March.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Well I guess what I meant was that the ohlins coilovers (The OP didnt specify which version of ohlins though) weren't a hard core race setup but still more of a KW V3 type coilover (Pete mentioned that big $ coilovers would be a waste of $ without solid bushes etc etc)

The ohlins coilovers offered for the 335i are the R&T series.

All I know is the ohlins gear transformed my bike into a plush ride around town yet on the twisties it provided excellent feedback and damper control.

It's one thing having a stiff setup to provide great feedback yet another to be able to maintain some form of dampening for the shit roads we have here in Oz.
That's the main reason why I was looking at Ohlins because of these feed back everywhere. Also, spoke to someone who had used MCA and Ohlins, and Ohlins have the edge on tracks and MCA probably off road. I haven't asked Murray or Josh the question yet, but they used to be happy to work with Ohlins as well but not sure if they still do.
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