Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2
I am not sure how Ryan makes 6" work up front without massive binding unless he is running ridiculously stiff springs.
7" is what you need to keep the spring perch above the tire (I run 178mm springs). That is cutting it pretty close. I have K8R in 17x9 ET45. You need at least an 8mm spacer up front. Preferably use a proper 10mm so that you can get the spacers with a hubcentric lip to mount the wheel on. You'll also need adjustable camber plates.
In the rear, you'll need a slight roll too depending on how much camber you run. Personally, I try to keep my rear camber less aggressive than -2*. Multi-link rear suspension does not lose camber under cornering loads like the mcpherson front suspension does. But, the camber can help avoid the fender roll.
Also, stack height of the upper mount has nothing to do with the relationship between the lower spring perch and the tire. Stack height of the upper mount just effects ride height.
|
The difference in travel between a 6 and 7in spring is only 1/2in. I ran rates between 400-575 on my E82 with a 6in 2.25 spring (least amount of travel) and not once ran into travel issues. I have a bigger diameter (more travel) spring on the car now, but also run a lot less compression force now, so it probably uses more travel than it did. Still definitely no coil bind. If that's your concern, use a progressive bump stop to operate at infinite rate before coil bind. As stated above, I'm not at all stiff, very much the opposite. I think unless you're jumping your car or something like that, you massively overestimate how much travel is actually used. For example, at a given ride height, the wheel would have to go into the wheel well over 2in before the spring coil bound. For almost any of us, there would be WAY bigger problems like that than coil bind. Namely, either a destroyed tire or a missing fender. It simply doesn't happen.
In any case, there's a big difference in corner weight between a 135 and a 128.