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It's probably worth your money to pick up a cheap scan tool at Autozone. They'll read and clear the basic codes, and at least that way you'll know that the SES light is a result of the catless pipes, and not something else going wrong.
The codes you get with catless pipes are set after the car has performed a self test on the converters. It does that by monitoring the difference between the front O2 sensors and the rear ones. The test is only perfomed once the car is fully warmed up, and only periodicaly. After a certain number of normal starts the code will reset itself. That could explain why you're seeing it go on, then off for a while, then back on.
After it's been cleared, I've had mine stay off for as long as a week because I was only doing short trips and it never completed the self tests.
FYI, if you've got a DINAN tune on the car, the O2 sims might not work. Something in their software uses the rear sensors apparently.
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