I'll just post the directions:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TT1351
What do you consider a complete cycle drive? I have been told its not the mile you put on, it the number of duty days, I have further been told its 10 duty days, meaning you have to drive it for 10 different days to give the ECU the data it needs to store so it doesn't read empty when the ECU is hooked up to the OBD 2 tester. Anyone else hear the same thing? I have cleared codes thinking I can go in and get retested after driving 100 miles or so as indicated by the inspector at the inspection station only to still get the message not enough data or no data exists. I know the BT Scanner clears out the ECU of any stored data, while I have used other code clearer's that only remove the code indicated, namely banks 1 and 2 catalysts not performing as they should. Fran
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bren335i
HOV! It's Bren. I wrote this a long time ago check it out.
Some people have trouble setting ODB2 readiness like myself and received "R" stickers because they
a) never drive their car
b) they leave their driveway in an 8k rpm launch or it doesn't reach these criteria
c) commute doesnt satisfy criteria even after months of driving
Readiness is cleared everytime a CEL is cleared, battery is pulled, new tune is loaded, or fuel trims are 0'd
Here’s the cycle I use to "set" it back up:
1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.
2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.
3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.
4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.
Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH
Below is the PDF:
http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0Procedure.pdf |
I have done this plenty of times while testing out o2 defoulers. Works perfectly. If you have a scan tool you can actually watch the sensors come online while doing the drive cycle. You need a clear road to be able to go slow for a couple minutes and then faster for a couple more. I did mine late at night on the highway and as I said it worked perfectly.