Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonCSU
It's not just a problem with the N54/N55 though. This problem is inherent to all direct injection engines.
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True.
Also, it's not just DI engines that do this.
ALL engines get carbon build up over time. It's just, it seems, DI may contribute to carbon build up accumulating quicker, because the fuel is not going past the intake valves as it would with a carb or port fuel injection.
In non DI engines there is an added benefit of the raw fuel coming through the valve ports and around the valves helping clean them.
DI injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber and only air comes through the intake ports and valves.
Carbon build up is a direct result of burning gasoline. Over time carbon builds up. Generally, most carbon build up occurs early in the engines life, then it levels off, or should, as some of the deposits flake off.
DI may not be allowing that, and thus the normal build up that happens actually gets thicker than it should.
As I've stated before, how ones drives does contribute to carbon build up. Short drives create a greater build up as the engine doesn't get up to optimal temperature for optimal fuel burn. Cold start is a "rich" air/fuel mixture that results in greater carbon build up. If one drives short distances often, like commuting every day, greater build up can result.
I do think that additional fuel additives, like Techron, do work as they help soften carbon deposits so they can be burned off or flake off, and they help from build up in the first place.
But, this works only if you use it regularly. If you already have excessive carbon build up, then fuel/combustion chamber cleaners can only do so much and they can't penetrate heavier layers.
For that Seafoam can help as well as Mopars fuel/combustion chamber cleaner, used through a vacuum line.
Going through the intake these products will go around valves and through the ports to help soak the areas. Once you've put the product in you shut the engine off and let the product soak.
After some minutes you fire up the engine and the exhaust will look quite nasty, and the internals will be cleaner. You can repeat the process to get greater cleaning.
Here's a link to the basics.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-u...treatment.html
If that doesn't work, then a manual cleaning will be needed.
I've used the Mopar product and it worked great in my 1990 Mits/Plymouth Laser turbo. It ran smoother and power came back.
If I recall, I may have used the whole can as I did this two or three times.
I did it right before a spark plug change, as some people reported spark plug issues after the cleaning.
Also, I did an oil change very soon after as some ring blow-by may have allowed the product to get into the oil.
BTW, in turbo engines I think that by 30K miles one should consider a plug change. By 50K I think it's necessary.
In my older Laser Turbo, I did a spark plug change every 15K miles, as those were old copper plugs and the Mits/Plymouth turbo had a weak ignition system. Our BMW's have a more stout ignition system and use better plug tech, so that's why I'm saying 30K to check them, and 50K to change them.
Proper firing plugs will ensure a proper air/fuel mix burn.