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      08-25-2010, 08:07 AM   #11
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Drives: 2006 M3, Mazda truck
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Westfield, MA

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artmasterx View Post
I am still trying to get the kinks worked out of the 10-year old Seat Leon TDI I bought. It's strange and is will go into a limp/low power mode if you go full throttle in at highway speeds (like 4th gear). Turning the car off and on again resets the problem and it drives normal until low power mode is tripped again.

It is throwing a positive pressure deviation code, so I think that it senses too much boost and then goes into a safe mode. The place where I bought it is going to try for a second time to fix it. I have read many possibilities of what may cause it, including a bad boost control valve, cracked hoses, and mucked up turbo... though I would think most of those would result in negative pressure deviations. Also, the turbo was already removed from the car once and cleaned... so who know what it is now.

Rob, how are you liking Belgium? I've been a couple of time for work and would love to get back over there for a vacation. Does Ax exist there?

As for your turbo problems, it has to be related to the boost solenoid, diverter/blow-off valve or wastegate. Check (or just replace) all of your vacuum lines that run between the turbo, waste gate, intake manifold, turbo intake pipe and the blow-off valve. All of these lines work under both pressure and vacuum. Cracking in these lines would not be a surprise on a ten year old car, especially around the turbo due to the heat from the turbo. Cracking in these lines can result in the boost solenoid not reacting quickly enough, the waste gate failing to open or the blow-off valve failing to open. If you replace all of the vacuum lines, ensure that there isn't a restrictor pill (typically a brass orifice) in one of the lines running between the wastegate and turbo.

Ensure that your blow-off valve works smoothly. Remove it from the car and actuate it by hand. Clean it while it is off. The blow-off is held closed by a spring and manifold pressure while under boost. As soon as you lift your foot off of the accelerator, the manifold will go from being under pressure to vacuum and result in opening of the blow-off valve to relieve excess pressure between the turbo and the throttle body. Because your problem seems to only be under full throttle, there is little chance that this is your problem. But, it would be worth checking.

The boost solenoid could be messing with the actuation of the wastegate. Checking out the boost solenoid will require access to computer data along with the manifold pressure and the pressure coming out of the the solenoid (unless you have a fixed valve, then it is not actuated by the computer). This can also get tricky to check out since most modern turbo cars will not load the turbo without a load on the engine, i.e., the turbo won't develop boost while the car is parked. This would be a lower probability problem unless the car pumped a bunch of oil through the intake manifold or turbo intake pipe at some point in its life.

The waste gate may not be actuating as expected. The device works under pressure to bypass exhaust gasses around the turbo as the boost target is approached or exceeded and is a function of the manifold pressure. The device is subjected to basically all of the heat from the turbo and is typically actuated by a fabric and rubber diaphragm that is expanded by the manifold pressure as actuated by the boost solenoid, or turbo exit pressure directly. Given the heat cycles on a wastegate and the typical construction of a OEM part, I wouldn't be surprised if one might fail after ten years. The actuator arm should also be checked to ensure that it is not bent and moves freely (assuming that it is an external wastegate turbo).

So that's the brain dump on boost issues and probably stuff you already know. I guess if I were looking at the car, the order would be vacuum lines, wastegate, boost solenoid, blow-off valve. Now, if only you hadn't just moved to Belgium and and had some tools.
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