Ok, so I've removed that ridiculous battery clamp/fuse block nonsense because I need some serious current for a sub install.
If you disassemble it, you'll find that all of the electrical current for the auxiliary fuses (where most people are attaching their amplifier wire to) has to flow through one rivet through a two sheets of aluminum that are in loose contact. I don't like that. Instead, I sourced some ANL fuses (150A and 250A if I remember correctly) & holders for the existing two ~4-6 gauge cables. I have also replaced the entire battery clamp with one that has three 0-gauge outputs. Somewhat overkill, but I want it like that. I now have one completely unused 0-gauge port that I can use for my amp or additional battery link-ups, and the existing wiring has an even better connection to the battery - Excellent.
Now come the airbag warning lamp shenanigans. There's a yellow and black cable connecting to what I can only assume is simply an electrical trigger for the explosive battery clamp. I've opted to leave the battery clamp attached to that connector so as not to trigger codes. No problem thus far. I, regrettably and for whatever reason, decided to completely remove the clamp from the car - it weighs a couple pounds and I'd rather not have an explosive device that's not installed at all, still ready to go off in my car. Take a guess: it threw a code..... Duuuuhh. Ok, no big deal, I thought - reconnect it and clear the codes with my handy dandy BT cable. I'll deal with the fallout of it going off in my battery compartment if I do get in a wreck if it happens.
No dice.
I've tried everything. Any combination of disconnect/reconnecting the yellow/black cable with neg terminal disconnected or connected, Feeding +12v from the battery terminal thinking the clamp was designed to always be at +12V... No matter what I do to try and clear this code, BT cable refuses to clear it and says:
"93B2
ZK10 / Security battery clamp
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed"
Unless the yellow wire is a DATA cable [black probably being ground], and there is a built-in ammeter into that stupid battery clamp and the computer expects to see a specific level of current draw, I see NO way for the computer to know that the clamp isn't *actually* on the battery post.
No matter what I've tried: "Error is currently present."
I've lost some faith in the ability of the BT tool to actually do anything useful. Dealer wont do anything because of 'liability' issues. They've already replaced a fuel pump on my car in this condition and talked to me about it, and they don't really care, but wont help me clear the codes.
And before any safety nannies come in and tell me to reattach the battery clamp, don't even bother saying anything. Been there, done that. Additionally, I don't care if my car catches fire because I was in an accident serious enough to erupt fuel everywhere with exposed, arcing wiring. It's going to be totaled anyways, and if I'm passed out but alive, and die as a consequence - then I guess it's my time to die. If insurance denies a claim for whatever situation that could arise from bypassing the fancy-clamp, then so be it - it's a risk I'm at home with. Millions of other cars don't have it, and most batteries are in the engine bay where it's even MORE likely to cause problems.
Any suggestions?
