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      09-16-2010, 10:06 PM   #136
RPM90
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Drives: 340i M-sport AT
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
The short answer is no. You will not need someone to help you.

After I used my presure bleeder and got all the air bubbles out. When I went to push the clutch pedal it went right to the floor. It took like fifty or so pumps before it felt kind of firm. Maybe even a hundred pump cycles.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you use a pressure bleeder instead of a vacuum bleeder?
Do you prefer the push method to the pull method?

I prefer the pull method, as it pulls only in the area I need, whereas the push method could put undue pressure in other areas, as it pressurizes the whole system from the reservoir, which is not intended to be pressurized.
But, in the end it's 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other, meaning not much difference.

How much room is there around the clutch nipple?
I've used "speed bleeder" in my cars and bikes in the past and I LOVE them, better than any push, pull, or pump--turn method.
Speed bleeders replace the stock bleeder. Internally, they have a spring and ball bearing. All you do is attach the clear bleeder hose, crack the nipple just a touch, and pump away at the brake or clutch. The spring and bearing control the fluid flow so that no air gets inside.

These are probably overkill for a clutch system where you might do this once every 2 years. But, if you install them on your brakes too, a full system fluid flush/replace literally takes only a few minutes with little fuss.

I'll probably do a full CDV removal in the next few weeks. So many keep saying how great this is, that I feel left out.
I don't have any issues with the CDV, but if it makes the clutch more responsive, then that can only be good.

YES, always pump the system back up, also when you do brakes.
The reason why the pump method is better, imo, is because you do the pumping while you do the bleed. So you get the fluid level right, and keep the pressure up.
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