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I agree with the other posters, rear subframe bushings and toe arms made a big difference to straight line stability on my 135i.
I went with condor speed shop solid uhmw rsfb and I noticed no increase in NVH but it made a MASSIVE difference in how the chassis reacts in straight lines and around turns. I’d recommend getting the eBay tool to remove the stock bushings if you’re DIYing as it made it a lot easier than the struggles I’ve seen online. I’d also recommend removing the middle brake lines from the subframe so you can drop it a little bit lower. And might as well change the lines at the same time, I went with UUC stainless lines just cause they use factory style mounting faces so you don’t have to counter-hold while tightening the lines. Really doesn’t matter though
For toe arms, you can’t use e90 m3 toe arms as they’re too long so I went with Megan Racing Toe Arms which have spherical bearings on both ends and put on seals it rod end boots to keep them from eventually clunking (they already had seals but they were kinda wimpy). If you don’t wanna bother with that, the Manzo Toe Arms are the exact same design except with rubber bushings on each end which should be more durable but would have some compliance due to the nature of rubber (still better than stock). I also added a SPL eccentric lockout so all the toe adjustment is from the arm itself instead of the eccentric bolt.
I also did an mfactory LSD but it’s hard to justify/recommend it due to cost vs benefits (especially if it’s just a street car), but also made a huge difference to straight-line stability and handling around corners. The car just feels like it’s on rails. Still, the rsfb and toe arms have a much better cost to benefit ratio so I’d recommend just doing those initially.
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