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      03-15-2013, 12:58 AM   #24
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Drives: AW 1M
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
I was going to get a Bendpak, but the dealer had a special on a similar Rotary, so I went with that. I will never come close to the 10,000lb capacity. The concrete requirements were the same regardless of the lift capacity with all of the Bendpak models I looked at. The Rotary had exactly the same requirements. I am using an asymmetric lift which allows you to lift with the cars center of gravity behind the posts, which makes it easier to get into and out of the car without the door hitting the post. For me, it also gets the posts out of the way of the workshop area and keeps more open floor space in the garage. I also went with the power and hydraulic connections on top, which avoids having anything on the floor between the posts, which would be a pain if using a cart of tools or a task chair.

The concrete should be level, at least 4.25 inches thick, and rated for 3000psi. Pretty standard. We had it poured 6" throughout just to be sure. You do NOT need rebar, and the installer asked that we not use it at all because it is impossible to drill through. Most garage floors are poured with a slope of 1" per 10 feet, but I made sure mine is level where the lift is. I will need to use a squeegie if there is standing water, but we live in a pretty dry area so I am not worried about it.

It needs a 220 volt power supply.

You need a garage bay at least 24' deep and 14-15' wide. Most lifts want a ceiling height of 11 feet, but there are shorter models.

I downloaded the installation guide and had the builder review it with the electrician and the concrete sub. . . so far everything has gone smoothly. It is getting delivered and installed soon, so I will post an update when its done.
Great info. Thanks!
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