Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1
On the Runflat vs Non-Runflat debate here recently:
I think the first recent post that started this discussion said that the sidewall was shredded.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but the way runflats work is that they have an extra stiff, or extra thick sidewall.
That being said, if the sidewall of a runflat tire gets punctured, or slashed or whatever it may be, to a certain degree the tire may hold up a bit better. But, if the cut is really that bad, don't you all think that the sidewall of the runflat would also get shredded and thus also render the runflat useless?
The purpose and design of the runflat from my understanding is that if you get a flat due to a nail or other puncture on the tread area, then the stiff sidewalls can give enough support to the tire that it can be driven on.
Again, I'm not an expert so correct me if I'm wrong.
|
No, this was not a run flat vs non run flat discussion. My MPSS were not shredded. The road I was traveling on was recently prepped for new asphalt. Therefore the road elevation was about 3 inches below the top of sewer caps. I am guessing that as I swerved to avoid a pot hole, I scraped and punctured the side walls of my front and rear passenger MPSS. The gash was about 3/4 of an inch on both tires. If I had run flats, I am sure I would have been able to continue driving. In fact, with that type of incident, perhaps the run flats would not have even been punctured because of the additional steel on the sidewall.
I am reconsidering going back to the run flats for two reasons. First, the ability to continue driving with a punctured tire or tires. Second, I have M3 rear axle subframe bushings and monoball joints in the front. The combination of the OEM runflats with these upgraded suspension components, IMO creates a drive that I like better then with the softer MPSS. My 2 cents. That's all.