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      12-05-2013, 06:14 AM   #33
Kkuba
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Drives: N54 135i
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: VIC, Australia

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Quote:
Originally Posted by flinchy View Post
ok cool, so you can grab literally EVERYTHING. much easier.



6AT's make for easier 1/4 mile times as long as you're not shooting for major power (too weak past 500ft-lb or so).. and yes they break, it would sell... eventually at least for sure, locally especially with people used to paying lots for BMW parts haha

I got my 6MT shipped from the uk for roughly $1200AUD air freight and all. could possibly get cheaper if you were willing to wait, i think there's a couple 6MT and 6AT on ebay right now to check pricing... i'd say $800 pretty easily without having it wait around? ymmv, don't quote me on that lol.





absolutely to yes it should work. anything your'e worried about parts not working, check realoem for parts numbers, see what models they came on.

half shafts for non-m's are shared, drive shaft modification is cheap.. diff from the donor car?.. apart from fitting the 135i brakes, the hubs are the same/will fit up to the diff etc. (more on brakes below)


no, just the cluster (gauge pod tacho/speedo bit), it unscrews from under the dash cluster hood bit, has a few plugs on the back. no worry there.



yes, and check realoem, you'll find comparing say.. a 130i to a 128i, which are both N52's, have different length driveshafts for whatever reason.. i know the 128i has a different transmission, so that's where my guess goes, just different length of parts.

i just checked for you

118i manual: L=1531MM auto: L=1407MM

135i manual: L=1353MM auto: L=1373MM

longer trans/engine is my guess. engine for sure though hah


much easier. kinda cool, but easier.




yes, as above, different motor/box combos have widely varying driveshaft lengths. i can't be 100% sure as to WHERE the lengths have to differ, just that they do lol





i can't give you a 100% answer (resident mechanics would maybe?).. but i'm pretty sure hydro assisted? as far as i'm aware, all N54 135i's came with hydraulic steering, N54 engine you take out should come with a power steering pump.



30kkm isn't mcuh no, would be unlocky if had troubles. i 100% suggest getting the valves cleaned while it's out though, much easier/cheaper just to take off the intake manifold+new gasket for that, and scrub off the carbon buildup while you can... would definitely still check the water pump. at the front middle bottom of the engine. easy to bump in a bad crash/transit or something


that's purchase price.. rears need the 135i hubs as they're 10mm thicker - the calipers (possibly with rotors/pads oem) sell often for about the $1k mark. hubs are $90 or so each (still ok on donor vehicle by any chance?), and pads/rotors if needed

engineering isn't expensive for factory>factory stuff. and to put in the N54, you need brakes from an N54 equipped car to get it certified.


yep, i'm about to swap in the 135i brakes, have all the parts, hubs, bearings etc. but i'm half tempted to go to M3 brakes instead. probably shouldn't for sake of ease and minimising delays hahaha


good, much cheaper - i don't know on the meth injection.. pics?. standard motor and turbos should get you close to 400whp without worry, which sounds like plenty




the E82 really does grow on you, and clean 135i's are around the $40k mark now.

13. yes, smart idea to have the tools just in case, when they're not super expensive.. hoist with a bar, jack to get the trans/subframe/whatever up as needed.. i got myself a crane for $150 lightly used.. and if i wanted, could sell it for $150 today, so no biggie.

yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier.

so yes could get a 6MT for $1000 shipped say (unknown condition, easy enough to get opened and eyeballed), $1000 for a GOOD clutch+flywheel... sell 6AT for a good percentage of the cost of the 6MT itself?
Again, thank you very much.

You have made my decision much easier.

Just when you say:

"yes, you can unbolt the front crossmember and have the front wide open. easier."

I'm not sure I follow. To me a cross member is what the motor rests on, and if you unbolted that, the motor would drop or sag, and there would be no influence on the front end of the vehicle.

On another note, I don't understand what is the cause of the negativity from most others. The way I see it, it could be several reasons.

- Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of time/money?

- Is it that because so many projects end up unfinished due to lack of motivation?

- Or is it because so many BMW projects in particular end up unfinished? Because they are more complex than most other cars, or for whatever other reason that is unique to BMW/Euro cars?

What I am basically asking is if I am being warned against taking on a BMW project, or just "don't start a project car" in general?

I suppose people's responses will vary.

PS. That realoem.com is awesome.
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