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07-21-2016, 01:19 PM | #1 |
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Passive Go Module Replacement Does Not Need Coded To Car.
Just figured I'd post this, given that I had done a bunch of searching over the past week or so after water ruined a passive go module in the taillight area of the E82 (and seems that this is common).
Dash would go crazy during lateral load, likely water sloshing around and grounding out the circuit. Dried out, and the car worked fine with no craziness, but no passive go (door handle unlock/lock worked), oddly, the trunk would not open keyless either. Ordered up a replacement passive go module from eBay. Plug and play, although it did take a key cycle for it to turn on. |
07-21-2016, 01:58 PM | #2 |
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Technically, it does have to be programmed and coded. The module, if uncoded, may keep the vehicle awake and not allow other modules to be coded if the VIN doesn't match with the KOMBI and DSC control units. A good example of this would be the battery. When you replace the battery, you don't need to register it in order for it to work and the car to start. You need to register it to provide adequate charge information to other modules for correct draw, or risk significantly reducing the life of the battery or worse.
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07-19-2017, 09:13 AM | #3 | |
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Thanks Downeaster1, I've been hit with the dreaded Passive Go module flooding issue also. Replacement unit from eBay is on the way, and have been thinking about this coding issue. Can only the dealer do the coding procedure, or is it possible for anyone with one of the 3rd party coding apps to do this? Is there a specific set of steps or when "coding a module", it's only a single procedure being referenced and there's only one way to do it? Thanks in advance. |
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07-23-2017, 11:41 AM | #4 | ||
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03-30-2018, 03:09 PM | #6 |
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passive go module fixed key issues E88-09
Second whoever said it doesn't need to be coded. Replaced mine with one from ebay used, same #s, plug and play. Simple enough remove "carpet" from right side rear trunk area several push pins and mesh cargo holder ,then support bracket. There it is in foam "bracket". Mine was covered in dark sticky stuff, prob dried coke. No cooler in trunk, dang cargo thing looks like a grate spot.
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01-25-2019, 12:56 PM | #8 | |
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This has happened to me, there is a ton of water inside the wheel well and I am not sure what to do next? Is there a "How to" on resolving this? What parts to purchase etc? Any help will be greatly appreciated, and I look forward to hearing from you. |
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01-26-2019, 12:06 AM | #9 | ||
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05-21-2023, 04:21 PM | #10 | |
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After experiencing the same symptoms (keyless ignition, proximity key trunk release not working, but keyless door handles still work), I decided to check my Passive Go module. The well where it sits in styrofoam was soaked, and the bottom of the module shows signs of corrosion. I’ll be replacing the module, but does anyone know how to keep the water out? What’s causing water to get in there? |
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05-21-2023, 04:24 PM | #11 | ||
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After experiencing the same symptoms (keyless ignition, proximity key trunk release not working, but keyless door handles still work), I decided to check my Passive Go module. The well where it sits in styrofoam was soaked, and the bottom of the module shows signs of corrosion. I’ll be replacing the module, but does anyone know how to keep the water out? What’s causing water to get in there? |
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08-13-2023, 07:54 AM | #12 |
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Same question here. Went 15 years before this became an issue. Has something “given way” (like a gasket?) over time to allow this water in? And how do we prevent it?
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01-04-2024, 01:51 PM | #13 |
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I can't speak from experience, but seems a simple way to check would be to hit the area with a garden hose/pressure washer and check for water ingress by looking through the rear seat opening with a flash light. Tail light gaskets are one place to look, and the entire trunk seal is the other big one.
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