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      01-21-2012, 03:13 PM   #1
ezeedee
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2008 135i  [3.50]
How much brake fluid?

I am getting ready to order some brake upgrades, and was wondering how much fluid to get, i want to be able to do a full flush. I dont want to run out.

Thanks!
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      01-21-2012, 03:16 PM   #2
Dackelone
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One liter should be fine. Play it safe and order two liters. DOT-4 As long as you don't open the bottle you can save it to use at a later date.


I would also suggest you use a pressure bleeder like Motive's unit for $60.
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      02-03-2012, 12:27 AM   #3
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One liter is plenty!
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      02-03-2012, 10:19 AM   #4
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don't waste money on ate stuff. castrol srf or motul rbf 600 or 660 is the way to go
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      02-03-2012, 10:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
don't waste money on ate stuff. castrol srf or motul rbf 600 or 660 is the way to go
do those come in colors? i want to do a whole flush, so i want a fluid thats a different color so i know when im done.
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      02-03-2012, 10:30 AM   #6
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they're standard yellow but if you flush a whole litre you will flush the old fluid out. start with the back right side first and keep an eye on the reservoir. when it gets down top out with new fluid. repeat one more time and you should be good. same thing with other three corners. don't let air to get in the line otherwise you will be going through more than a litre to flush out the air
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      02-03-2012, 10:36 AM   #7
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The SRF is very clear compared to the OEM fluid and motul so it's easy to see.
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      02-03-2012, 10:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue View Post
don't waste money on ate stuff. castrol srf or motul rbf 600 or 660 is the way to go
Don't waste MORE money on rbf stuff. ATE Blue or ATE Gold is the way to go.

(see what I did there?)

They're all great stuff, ATE is my preference because it is cheaper and still holds up to repeated track days (zero boiling for me), so it suits my needs. If I was endurance racing or doing more than just HPDEs, then maybe I'd need to look into a stronger fluid like 660. But I'm not.
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      02-03-2012, 11:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaeryan View Post
Don't waste MORE money on rbf stuff. ATE Blue or ATE Gold is the way to go.

(see what I did there?)

They're all great stuff, ATE is my preference because it is cheaper and still holds up to repeated track days (zero boiling for me), so it suits my needs. If I was endurance racing or doing more than just HPDEs, then maybe I'd need to look into a stronger fluid like 660. But I'm not.
fair enough!
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      02-03-2012, 12:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaeryan View Post
Don't waste MORE money on rbf stuff. ATE Blue or ATE Gold is the way to go.

(see what I did there?)

They're all great stuff, ATE is my preference because it is cheaper and still holds up to repeated track days (zero boiling for me), so it suits my needs. If I was endurance racing or doing more than just HPDEs, then maybe I'd need to look into a stronger fluid like 660. But I'm not.
I boiled my ATE Blue in one session.. went back to RBF 600, I was braking extremely hard and late.. depends on how you drive I guess, and everyone's experience is different, but I will not be going back to ATE.
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      11-28-2012, 07:00 PM   #11
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Not a fan of ATE since it's blue in color. Normal fuid turns blue/greenish when it collects moisture - counter intuitive if your fluid is that color to begin with.
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