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      10-30-2010, 12:08 PM   #45
MikeinAlexandria
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Thanks for a helpful write up. I took some photos too. Just did my first oil change. Was so busy this summer/fall, that I put 3300 miles on the car before getting to do this. I have to say, the N52 engine is the absolute easiest oil change of any car I have owned. Clearly, much thought went into this. Standard 27 ad 17mm sockets are all you need to get the job done, with some rags and of course a way to recover the used oil. I put the car on ramps, drain the oil into a social pan and then drain the pan into a large Tide plastic container. Makes it easy to drop off at a recycling center or your local gas station.

Changing the filter took only a few seconds, most of the time was spent wiping then holder and replacing the two washers. Seven quarts went in as specified. Now I just need to drive around a little to make sure all is well and run the check oil function on the dash.

Thanks again!
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      11-17-2010, 08:45 PM   #46
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I just thought I would post here some photos of the German Castrol Edge RS 0W40 LL-4 oil that I use. I really do nit want to turn this trhead into an oil religion thing. I just wanted to put out there what I use.

For the first few oil changes I used Mobil-1's european blend 0W40 LL-1 oil (with the black label). But since I am living and driving in Germany... I realy ought to use a LL4 oil that will work with the low sulphur fuels sold over here. The more I thought about it the more I wanted to make a switch to G.C. (German Castrol).

I am really happy I switched over to German Castrol. My engine is MUCH quieter on cold starts now than it was on Mobil-1. I even saw a recent thread on the 1er forum with the guys there noticing the same thing.

I think its like what Castrol says... "Castrol Oil... is Liquid Engineering... more than just oil".

Here are some pics of what the G.C. oil looks like. I think IF i was back in the states I would only use the BMW Castrol oil. But I can find anyone who will send it over here to my APO. So I am happy using G.C. Btw... I pay "only" ten euros per liter. A five liter jug cost me fifty euros without any German tax! Not bad when you see what the Germans pay for oil! (with tax!)

German Castrol... Castrol Edge RS 0w40 LL-4





Bottle on RIGHT – 0w40 Castrol RS Edge for BMW’s LL-4
[/quote]
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      11-18-2010, 08:18 AM   #47
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Interesting. The "german castrol" lots of people like in the US is branded as syntec (0w30) but I think you can also get some varieties of the edge stuff. I don't know how the two compare though.
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      10-12-2011, 03:10 AM   #48
Dackelone
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A little bump for an (good) old thread...


Here is the Castrol Edge RS 0w40 LL-4 oil that I use...

Name:  Castrol-EDGE-Formula-RS-0W-40-5L.jpg
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Size:  59.0 KB


And here is the new Castrol Edge FST 0w40 LL-1 oil that replaces the above Castrol oil...

Name:  Castrol_FST_bottles-titanium.png
Views: 1644
Size:  25.0 KB


Btw... I found that the oil depot24 has the best prices on the German Castrol RS Edge 0w40. Here is where I buy mine from:

http://www.oeldepot24.de/catalog/pro...products_id=78

Last edited by Dackelone; 10-20-2011 at 03:02 AM.
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      03-01-2012, 08:15 AM   #49
dorkdog
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Topside oil change?

For awhile now I have been doing topside oil changes - on my Z3, my MINI and my wife's Fanta Fe. Now that I have a 128i in the drive, I'm wondering if my topside unit will work? Can I thread the tube to the bottom of the pan in a 128i?

Thanks

LJ
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      03-01-2012, 10:32 AM   #50
Dackelone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkdog View Post
For awhile now I have been doing topside oil changes - on my Z3, my MINI and my wife's Fanta Fe. Now that I have a 128i in the drive, I'm wondering if my topside unit will work? Can I thread the tube to the bottom of the pan in a 128i?

Thanks

LJ

I guess you could - anything is possible given enough time and money spent. But how would you cap that tube off? And where would you put it? IF it ever would leak your engine would have one huge engine vacuum leak (rough idle).

Since our cars do not have an oil dip stick... a top side oil change can not be done. Its not that hard to change the oil from underneath though.
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      03-04-2012, 01:29 PM   #51
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Guess I'll be selling my topside oil changer setup ...
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      03-04-2012, 02:05 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkdog View Post
Guess I'll be selling my topside oil changer setup ...

I still use mine to suck out the oil from inside the 135's oil filter housing(about 200ml of old oil). I even tried using the LONG suction tube inside the oil filter housing... but that does not work for oil changes. I have one car where I can use my top side oil change suction device... and for my 1er I just "do it" the old fashioned way! lol
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      07-04-2012, 11:04 PM   #53
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Since this is the break-in oil change, there's no resetting of the computer, correct?
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      07-05-2012, 03:17 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
Since this is the break-in oil change, there's no resetting of the computer, correct?
If you're in warranty and you're doing intermediate oil change, do not reset.
But if you're out of warranty, then just reset it every time.

To answer your question more directly, yes, you do not reset on break-in oil change.
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      07-05-2012, 09:18 AM   #55
Dackelone
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^^YuP! +1. And... here is How to reset those service due lights...



DIY resetting service "due" lights…
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415111




.
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      07-05-2012, 09:30 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
^^YuP! +1. And... here is How to reset those service due lights...



DIY resetting service "due" lights…
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415111




.
Thanks.... I'll bookmark that for future reference.
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      09-10-2012, 09:48 AM   #57
Dackelone
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And here is a DIY on changing the oil on a N55. Its all really the same(procedures) on changing the oil on a (128i)NA and/or a Turbo (N54/N55) BMW engines though.


N55 Oil Change DIY...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595783
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      09-11-2012, 07:21 AM   #58
Isdaako
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Thanks for this informative thread.
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      09-29-2012, 12:09 PM   #59
Dackelone
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Btw... I replaced my OE drain plug with a magnetic one from UUC. It has a very strong magnet on it and it really grabs lot of little bits of metal floating around the oil. I always change my oil every 6K miles or even less. And for my first three oil changes after using this UUC magnet it was really grabbing lots of metallic particles. Have a look for yourself!




After being installed for 5K miles(I think?)...




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      10-21-2012, 01:34 PM   #60
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I know this is an old post, but if you're concerned about oil shooting sideways out of the drain plug, try Form-A-Funnel®. It works great and keeps things clean.

www.formafunnel.com/
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      03-10-2013, 11:00 PM   #61
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Funny story about those... They are a little long because you have to use the extension, They should fit but its tight. I had one and when installing it I overtightened not thinking its brass and broke the thread off in my oil pan T_T

I started to freak about if I could not get it out... Luckfully I had a screwdriver that fit in the threads and I was able to unscrew, but I never got to test the product out...
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      03-13-2013, 01:59 PM   #62
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First oil change 128i

I am about to do the first oil change on my 128i (E82). This is hugely informative, so thank you all who contributed! I will certainly have this thread pulled up on my droid while doing this oil change.

I have never changed the oil on a high-end vehicle (only my previous honda/dodge pieces of sh*t that I grew up with), so naturally I am a bit nervous having only owned the car for it's previous 3K miles.

Any additional tips? I am wondering how the draining will be, since I don't have a lift - just a jack. Any specific advice on jacking the car? I am fairly mechanically inclined, so I'm pretty confident with the workflow/step-by-step of the oil change. thanks all
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      03-13-2013, 02:31 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by urbanjunglist View Post
Any additional tips? I am wondering how the draining will be, since I don't have a lift - just a jack. Any specific advice on jacking the car?
If you're just using a jack, you'll needs those adapters along with jackstands... I've found that two ramps are imminently better.
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      03-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw1racer View Post
If you're just using a jack, you'll needs those adapters along with jackstands... I've found that two ramps are imminently better.
Thanks, yes I was just thinking I would get the ramps... seems crazy not to as long as I will have this car. So, with only the front end up - you imagine I will leave any excess oil behind after draining?
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      03-13-2013, 04:44 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbanjunglist View Post
Thanks, yes I was just thinking I would get the ramps... seems crazy not to as long as I will have this car. So, with only the front end up - you imagine I will leave any excess oil behind after draining?
The amount left over in the pan would be minimal, I think... I never gave it a second thought when I changed my oil.
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      03-13-2013, 05:40 PM   #66
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I drain mine elevated on ramps and it seems to get more, not less oil out. I put a full 7 quarts in and it always fills to one notch below full when i check it.
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