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      05-08-2012, 01:11 PM   #23
My135
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Did you buy it from this web-site:

http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...products_id=92

They only have front, what happen to the rear?
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      02-15-2015, 10:30 AM   #24
EM58NDS 135i
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My factory bmw/brembo pads used to clunk, and they still clunk abit after swapping to EBC Red stuff
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      04-08-2015, 03:28 PM   #25
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Did anybody get a fix for this? I'm running the Hawk HPS pads too and also getting the clunk whenever I switch between reversing and going forwards. I switched over all backing plates etc.

Other than the noise is there anything to worry about with them moving? Wouldn't want them damaging the calipers or anything like that.

I swear they even clunk if I go over an abrupt bump in the road. (Something back there does.)

Oh, and on that note, it only seems to be the rears making a noise. Though I understand the direction of sounds can be hard to judge in a car.
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      04-13-2015, 09:12 PM   #26
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I found that clunking racing pads are usually related to the more agressive pads that designed to be smaller in size, to compensate for heat expansion. What happens then is that they move around in the caliper when cold, over bumps, or when driving forward or in reverse for the first time.

My solution was to use BMW brake pad backing plates from an old worn out set, and fit them over the more agressive pads. This works for street and the track. Problem solved!
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      04-14-2015, 07:45 AM   #27
TheRuss
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Is this for the fronts or rears? Typically I held onto my old ones for ages, then threw then out recently. Argh!

I just can't think which bits you were removing from the old ones though. The backing on the fronts was part of the pad from what I remember. Or do you mean the shims on the rears?
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      04-14-2015, 08:24 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Is this for the fronts or rears? Typically I held onto my old ones for ages, then threw then out recently. Argh!

I just can't think which bits you were removing from the old ones though. The backing on the fronts was part of the pad from what I remember. Or do you mean the shims on the rears?
I used this for both front and rear. The thin shim is glued, and surrounds the pad "frame". You can use the shims off of any old street pads desgined for the 135i caliper of course. With a bit of tinkering, the shims usually come undone without too much effort. In my case, the glue burned off with some heat and abuse from track use, when I first started tracking my 135i. The shim/shields easily came off. These shims happen to fit nicely over most track pads, which are designed to be smaller, to allows for expansion when exposed to extreme heat.

In addition to above, I use Hardbrakes.com 0.5mm Ti heat shields between the track pad, and the OE shim. My justification is to avoid the rattling , and isolate the weak 135i caliper pistons, hubs, and fluid from extreme heat. It works fine for me.
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      04-14-2015, 08:26 AM   #29
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Great, thanks for the info. Now to invent a time machine to go back and stop myself from throwing out my old pads! Argh!
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      04-14-2015, 08:30 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Great, thanks for the info. Now to invent a time machine to go back and stop myself from throwing out my old pads! Argh!
Try to get a an old set of pads from a member disposing their street pads. Maybe even a scrap yard/recycler ...
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      04-14-2015, 08:32 AM   #31
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Yeah, I may try that. Unfortunately, I'm in the UK where 135i's are pretty rare. Over here most 1 series are diesels and have smaller brakes.
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      04-14-2015, 08:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
I used this for both front and rear. The thin shim is glued, and surrounds the pad "frame". You can use the shims off of any old street pads, and with a bit of tinkering, the shims usually come undone without too much effort. In my case, the glue burned off with some heat and abuse from track use, when I first started tracking my 135i. The shim/shields easily came off. These shims happen to fit nicely over most track pads, which are designed to be smaller, to allows for expansion when exposed to extreme heat.

In addition to above, I use Hardbrakes.com 0.5mm Ti heat shields between the track pad, and the OE shim. My justification is to avoid the rattling , and isolate the weak 135i caliper pistons, hubs, and fluid from extreme heat. It works fine for me.
My approach is similar and I found that the front shims fell off the OE front pads once they has seen some track abuse too. I wasn't smart enough to hang on to them though, and by the time I realized I should have saved them they were on their way to the dump.

So instead for my track pads I made a custom stainless shims (waterjet cut out of 0.040" stainless). That is twice as thick as the OE shim so I only wrap it around one end of the pad to take up the gap (the side that normally sees thrust under forward braking - the top), otherwise the pad would jam in the caliper. Up front I have a Ti shim between the pad and my shim. I figure the thicker stainless shim further improves heat isolation of the pad from the rotor. It works pretty well.

When the pads are brand new this shim combination does make the pads a bit tighter fit to install on a new rotor, but they do fit if the pistons are fully retracted.

Name:  5 Front Pad with Ti and SS Shims.jpg
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Name:  6 Front Pad Installed.jpg
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      04-14-2015, 08:44 AM   #33
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Nice, what did you use to get the size/shape for the waterjet? And how much did they cost to have made?
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      04-14-2015, 09:12 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRuss View Post
Nice, what did you use to get the size/shape for the waterjet? And how much did they cost to have made?
I designed the shape based on measuring the pad geometry. I made them with two "tabs" - one of which needed to get cut off, because my original plan was to use 0.020" material and bend down both ends. Because it wasn't hard to shear off the un-needed tab I didn't change the design before having them cut. If I were doing it again I would have them cut with just the one tab. The rears use the same little finger as the OE shims to keep it centred on the pad.

Name:  2 Rear Pads with Shims.jpg
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I didn't make provision for the brake wear sensor because I don't use them

If there was a critical mass of interest I would be happy to make up a few more sets. I think they cost me about $200 for a full set (front plus rear).

They get pretty hot on the track and the paint on the pad backing plate melts and/or burns away. Next time I install new track pads I will likely sand or sandblast the back of the backing plates before using them to get rid of the paint and the subsequent mess.

Name:  Front Used.jpg
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Name:  Rear Used.jpg
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      04-14-2015, 09:59 AM   #35
TheRuss
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Thanks for the info. Not a cheap job then! Did you have the shape on the computer at all? With the OEM thickness metal you could probably cut them with tin snips!
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      05-27-2015, 03:16 PM   #36
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You should make these backing plates and sell them. I think a lot of us would love to have new backing plates everytime we change brake pads
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