Login
|
![]() |
Post Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
05-23-2012, 01:13 PM | #23 |
Banned
27
Rep 212
Posts
Drives: VO
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: MERICA
|
its just power for that shifter DUH! lol
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-23-2012, 05:39 PM | #25 |
Lieutenant
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 25
Rep 491
Posts |
This looks good except that the boot is black leather instead of alcantara
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-14-2012, 02:13 PM | #28 |
Private First Class
![]() ![]() 10
Rep 147
Posts |
Hey,
I finally installed the Illuminated ZHP Shift Knob. It looks great! I just had a bit of a struggle with the alcantara boot, because it is attached to the original shift knob but it all worked out it the end. I 'll try to post a DYI with a few pics in a few days.
__________________
Diego RdS - Lima, Perú
2011 /// 1M Coupe - BSM |
Appreciate
0
|
06-14-2012, 04:02 PM | #30 | |
Moderator
![]() 7246
Rep 8,128
Posts |
Quote:
![]() ![]()
__________________
For tis the mind that makes the body rich (W. Shakespeare, The Taming of the Shrew, Act 4, Scene 3)
![]() |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-14-2012, 04:59 PM | #31 |
CW2
![]() 15
Rep 441
Posts
Drives: 1SMC - traded away
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
|
Not sure I understand the fuss. Is this a "classic M" thing? I know where all the gears are...
__________________
Good-bye, ol' Paint...
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-25-2012, 01:51 AM | #34 |
Private First Class
![]() ![]() 10
Rep 147
Posts |
It is weighted, it actually is exactly the same size and weigh as the stock shift knob on the 1M, but illuminated.
__________________
Diego RdS - Lima, Perú
2011 /// 1M Coupe - BSM |
Appreciate
0
|
06-25-2012, 10:27 AM | #36 |
Banned
64
Rep 3,094
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-26-2012, 11:41 PM | #39 |
Private First Class
![]() ![]() 10
Rep 147
Posts |
So I didn't get enough pictures and I don't have time to make a detailed DIY, but I wanted to at least post the few pics I have and tell you how I did it.
So the first thing I did for this install was to remove the original shift knob from its base. To do this you have to carefully pull upwards but be careful not to hurt yourself as you might pull it right out towards your face of the rearview mirror. At this point you have to separate the shift knob from the boot. These two parts are attached together by three pins, which you have to try and separate or break in order to remove the knob from the boot. In my case, I accidentally pulled it out too hard so it broke (luckily it was a clean break). Once you have removed the shift knob, you have to remove the boot by simply pulling it upwards, then remove the foamy padding they have in there and you will see something like the first picture. I was able to wire the wiring harness provided with the shift knob using two scotch locks (also provided) to tap into my car's wires. I believe I tapped into the wiring from the cigarette lighter, anyway it's the set of wires that runs from top to bottom on the right hand side of the picture. The two wires I tapped into were brown and the other one gray with a red stripe. Pictures two and three show how the tapping with the scotch locks was done and how it looks once its done. Once I had the harness tapped in the wiring system I tested the knob to make sure it did actually light up (picture four). The only real trouble I encountered was that the base of the original shift knob that was left on the boot (glued and attached under the alcantara) did not match flushly with the new knob (because of the wiring of the shift knob). So what I had to do was unglue the plastic ring from the alcantara, rotate it 180 degrees and then re-attach it and glue it again to the boot. There was more work involved given that I had to carve two slots into the ring so that the stitching of the boot would fit snugly (its hard to explain this part, I guess you'll realize what I mean when you remove the plastic ring from the boot). Finally when I was going to re-install the boot and the new shift knob I realized that the wiring harness from the new shift knob did not go through the plastic ring I just mentioned! ![]() After this I returned the cables to the side, re-attached the foamy padding back to its place, connected the shift knob wiring harness and then returned the boot to it's place. Hope this helps
__________________
Diego RdS - Lima, Perú
2011 /// 1M Coupe - BSM |
Appreciate
0
|
06-26-2012, 11:50 PM | #40 |
Private First Class
![]() ![]() 10
Rep 147
Posts |
These are two pictures that show what I was talking about earlier.
The first one shows that the wiring harness from the new shift knob did not go through the plastic ring on the top of the alcantara boot. Then the second picture shows what I had to do to be able to get the wire through the boot, I had to cut the wires to then pass the wires through the boot's ring and re-attache the wires afterwards. Cheers!
__________________
Diego RdS - Lima, Perú
2011 /// 1M Coupe - BSM |
Appreciate
0
|
07-01-2012, 09:36 PM | #43 |
Brigadier General
![]() ![]() 125
Rep 3,094
Posts
Drives: Many
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North of 4K RPM
iTrader: (1)
Garage List 2017 BMW F80 M3 [0.00]
1994 Lancia Delta I ... [0.00] 2011 BMW 1///M [0.00] 1988 BMW E30 M3 [0.00] 2016 Porsche 981 GT4 [0.00] 1998 Porsche 993 C4S [0.00] 2008 Audi RS4 [0.00] |
+1, looking to do the retrofit so part # would be helpful. Since the US 6-spd F10 M5 is about to kick into production this month, maybe that's already in the US dealers' database?
__________________
2011 BMW E82 1///M: AW, all options; Renntech, Akrapovic, Forge, P3, RevoZ CF bits, many mods
1988 BMW E30 M3: Hennarot, S14, stock 2016 Porsche 981 GT4: Guards Red, LWBS, SC, full leather 1998 Porsche 993 C4S: Zenith Blue, last aircooled widebody, Bilstein PSS10, Fister II + Fabspeed exhaust 2008 Audi B7 RS 4: Sprint Blue, Audi Exclusive Euro Bucket Interior, Premium+Titanium, many mods |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|