So who wants to help me tackle cooling on a budget?

[bogart]

I'm running the large CX Racing intercooler, it's cheap. It keeps me out of limp mode.

[Pig Farmer]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

Is there DIY how to drain the coolant without removing an intercooler?

Technically, the drain plug is under the intercooler but when I saw it I was concerned that it looked plastic and fragile. I decided to just pull the hose on the lower passenger side of the radiator. The hose has a simple c-clamp the you pull out to unlock. The radiator flange has a spline so you can not twist the hose. The hose has to be pulled straight away from the flange. If it feel stuck, just rock the hose back and forth gently until it feels like it has a slight amount of play and then pull the hose firmly away from the radiator...it will pop off and drop the coolant. Obviously do this when the car is cold and have a large pan to catch the coolant. I had the intercooler removed at the time and I didn't pay much attention to whether I could pull the hose with the intercooler installed. I suspect it is possible.

[Pig Farmer]

Originally Posted by ezeedee

the cabin filter housing is still there, but i took out all the covers over the dme box (already waterproof) and the master cylinde.

I was looking under the hood to understand your mod and have a couple questions...

1) Did you just remove the two covers for the DME and master cylinder, or did you also remove the large black shelf that they snap on to?

2) If you removed the whole shelf (with the rear hood seal), did you notice any fuel/oil/engine smell coming through the cabin filter? Did it impact the A/C's cooling ability?

[ezeedee]

Originally Posted by Pig Farmer

I was looking under the hood to understand your mod and have a couple questions...

1) Did you just remove the two covers for the DME and master cylinder, or did you also remove the large black shelf that they snap on to?

2) If you removed the whole shelf (with the rear hood seal), did you notice any fuel/oil/engine smell coming through the cabin filter? Did it impact the A/C's cooling ability?

I removed everything, except the cabin filter. I didnt notice any new smells, but i am running full catless. I do spray the filter with febreze every once in a while too.

It does let quite a bit more noise out though, i like the way it sounds, some may not.

[Sauce]

Ok guys, so I finally have an actual update here. I picked up some catless DP's as well as ceramic heat wrap. I really hope the lack of a cat and the wrap will help a lot. However, I have some serious concerns. The DP's have mounting brackets, threaded holes for censors, etc as well as an extreme angle after the mounting point to the turbos. This means that parts of the DP cant really be wrapped. Will the exposed portions become a place for all that heat being kept in the pipe to escape and become superheated? I am really, really concerned about this. I will try and get a pic up in a second.

[Qbrozen]

No. The exposed metal will get no hotter than usual. The metal under the wrap isn't staying cool, it is getting just as hot as it normally would. The wrap is simply cutting down on how much radiates from it to the surrounding area.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Sauce

Ok guys, so I finally have an actual update here. I picked up some catless DP's as well as ceramic heat wrap. I really hope the lack of a cat and the wrap will help a lot. However, I have some serious concerns. The DP's have mounting brackets, threaded holes for censors, etc as well as an extreme angle after the mounting point to the turbos. This means that parts of the DP cant really be wrapped. Will the exposed portions become a place for all that heat being kept in the pipe to escape and become superheated? I am really, really concerned about this. I will try and get a pic up in a second.

I would not use a header exhaust wrap/tape. They only make your DP's rustout faster, bc the water when it rains get caust between the DP's and the wrap. IF you are really concerned about heat buildup... I would get some thermal coatings put on. Like from www.swaintech.com


Dack

[Sauce]

Originally Posted by Qbrozen

No. The exposed metal will get no hotter than usual. The metal under the wrap isn't staying cool, it is getting just as hot as it normally would. The wrap is simply cutting down on how much radiates from it to the surrounding area.

I understand how the wrap works, however if there are small areas where the heat would actually radiate, would all the heat that is usually spread out over the pipe concentrate? That is my question and I don't think it's as simple as you stated.

Fourtailpipes, where are you!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I would not use a header exhaust wrap/tape. They only make your DP's rustout faster, bc the water when it rains get caust between the DP's and the wrap. IF you are really concerned about heat buildup... I would get some thermal coatings put on. Like from www.swaintech.com


Dack

I'm aware of the pro's and con's of the wrap, I thought about it long and hard. At the end of the day I picked up these downpipes for $150 plus I live in socal, very hot and dry. I would spend another 150 bucks on another set of DP's in lets say 3 years if it lowers temps. Seems like a good deal compared to a $1500 oil cooler lol.

[omar14711]

If you are going to track the car consitantly, you will need an oil cooler. After instaling the STETT kit on my 135 the oil temps at homested, never hit 280.

[pixelblue]

Originally Posted by Sauce

Ok guys, so I finally have an actual update here. I picked up some catless DP's as well as ceramic heat wrap. I really hope the lack of a cat and the wrap will help a lot. However, I have some serious concerns. The DP's have mounting brackets, threaded holes for censors, etc as well as an extreme angle after the mounting point to the turbos. This means that parts of the DP cant really be wrapped. Will the exposed portions become a place for all that heat being kept in the pipe to escape and become superheated? I am really, really concerned about this. I will try and get a pic up in a second.

I wouldn't worry. going catless is where you'll get most of the heat reduced. the wrap and coating are finite improvements. I would say getting a vented hood would be the most effective way to keep things cool under the hood

[GeeRam]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Why not install the 1M's larger cooling radiator?

Does the 1M have a different radiator though?

When I looked a few months ago, the part no's for the 1M rad was the same as the part no of the 6MT 135i rad?

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by GeeRam

Does the 1M have a different radiator though?

When I looked a few months ago, the part no's for the 1M rad was the same as the part no of the 6MT 135i rad?

This one.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by GeeRam

Does the 1M have a different radiator though?

When I looked a few months ago, the part no's for the 1M rad was the same as the part no of the 6MT 135i rad?

I just checked on RealOEM.com yea... looks like they both(1M and 135i) use the same radiator.

I thought I had read somewhere that the 1M had a HD radiator plus the PPK stuff (extra small radiator and higher wattage radiator fan/relays).


Last weekend we toured Manhart Racing GmbH... they showed us their all alloy radiator, and stepped intercooler. They also make a new replacement HD oil cooler as well.(they did not have one handy though). The parts were very well made. But they wanted silly money for that stuff though!! 1,800 euros for the radiator and 1,400 euros for the FMIC. (I think those were the prices). I forget how much for the oil cooler. Here are some pics.













OE 135i radiator and mix front end parts from their project 135i.

[Buzz135]

Ran Thunderhill on Saturday air temps was around 95. I have been reading this post but wanted to try my mods before posting. I have an upgraded oil cooler and other small changes I have done to help get the oil temps down. I was running my Cobb tune on aggresive. My oil temps stayed just below 250 thats right below 250 after the
1st lap to the last. I was supprised and happy with the results. I have been trying and doing things to keep the temps down and wanted to keep them at or below 250. You do need a good oil cooler but the rest of the changes are cheap.

Here are the things that I have done. I closed off all air leaks in the ducting going to my Setrab oil cooler. The air coming in has to go throught the oil cooler no leaks. Also placed 1/4 inch race screen at the back of the cooler to make sure the flow coming out is not blocked but rocks coming off the tires do not damage the cooler. Also 1/4 inch race screen in front of the cooler to protect the front of the cooler. I run a 75/25 water/coolant and water wetter. I removed the cowl at the back of the engine to allow hot air out of the engine bay and built covers for the brake reservior and electronics on the other side to protect them from the engine heat. I do not have a stock intake and covered the holes above the radiator to force more air through the radiator. I also removed the rubber seal on the front of the engine bay to allow more air in. I have also removed the stock oil thermo and run a 180. Also before going to the track I clean all the bugs off the front of my raditor.

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by Buzz135

... My oil temps stayed just below 250 thats right below 250 after the 1st lap to the last...

I can attest to this as I was there and Buzz135 was driving hard I can't really say exactly how fast but I think about a 2:11 or 2:12 from what I was seeing. That's fast but more importantly, he was driving hard.

After fighting the N54 battle for years I know how important it is to measure temps against how hard you are driving. Great comparison is Pro Miata times at your track. At Thunderhill I think they are 2:08.

Whatever he's doing is working and y'all should pay attention.

[jbass524]

Buzz, Are you going to Sears Point at the end of September?