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      08-28-2012, 04:42 PM   #67
alik01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
You're welcome. Oh, one more thing, with hybrid/track pads, they may rattle over rough roads, and will clank when you brake as your reverse and clank again when you brake after moving forwards - the pads are simply just shifting within the caliper. The reason for this is because the metal pad-back is made slightly smaller to allow for thermal expansion when your brakes get really hot, so as to prevent the pad from seizing within the caliper.
A bit of noise is fine by me. I don't think I'll be driving it too much.

It's funny how the entire 1M package works so well till we change something; semi-slicks highlight the weakness in brakes!
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      08-28-2012, 04:47 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
And because track pads -- at least those used by racers -- typically do not include the clips, since those would only slow down pad changes.

Neil
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Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
This too, but Ferodo DS2500 and Pagid RS19s for OEM calipers have clips.
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Originally Posted by firechicken99 View Post
If thats the case (as stated I have no experience with those) than I would say those are your best option OP. Anything that doesn't have those clips will instantly go into the "not what you're looking for" category
Thanks for this info too. I'm ordering a set of DS2500 today to see how they go. Was going to order some StopTech Braided SS Lines but some reading suggests that they are unnecessary.
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      08-28-2012, 04:49 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by toni8284 View Post
For the update of my story.

I just picked up my car today, and the SA told me I have warped rotors at the front. both with 0.008MM.

So they replaced both front rotors under warranty, but no new pads installed.

Case closed.
Sorry for the thread jack!

I'm really glad it worked out for you and they replaced the rotors. A good warm down lap I found helps a lot - 3/4 pace with minimum braking if possible. Luckily for me I found I could do our whole track with about 4 brake applications!
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      08-30-2012, 10:18 PM   #70
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READ these WHITE PAPERS
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...l-white-papers

ALL are great. 8th one down is "warped discs and other myths"
The key to these articles is the people writing them WANT to sell you big brake kits. But they are giving you the truth and probably loosing some sales. That is the kind of people you can trust.
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      08-31-2012, 07:18 AM   #71
mlhj83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amigo View Post
READ these WHITE PAPERS
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...l-white-papers

ALL are great. 8th one down is "warped discs and other myths"
The key to these articles is the people writing them WANT to sell you big brake kits. But they are giving you the truth and probably loosing some sales. That is the kind of people you can trust.
Already posted before.
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      08-31-2012, 08:04 AM   #72
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If you do cool down laps and dont leave your foot on the brakes when not moving
- you shouldnt warp the discs.
The standard pads arent fit for track work
and i recommend carbotec xp10's and some AP racing brake fluid.
Something i do find strange tho is that the 135i and the 130i came with optional 6pots?
Id like to know why the M3 and 1M get a lesser caliper than the 130i? lol

Has anyone gone the route of the CSL guys and fitted AP 6pots up front and 4pots at the rear?
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      08-31-2012, 08:31 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octainejunkee View Post
If you do cool down laps and dont leave your foot on the brakes when not moving
- you shouldnt warp the discs.
The standard pads arent fit for track work
and i recommend carbotec xp10's and some AP racing brake fluid.
Something i do find strange tho is that the 135i and the 130i came with optional 6pots?
Id like to know why the M3 and 1M get a lesser caliper than the 130i? lol

Has anyone gone the route of the CSL guys and fitted AP 6pots up front and 4pots at the rear?
If the 6 piston caliper that came on my 135i was as good as the 1M caliper, I wouldn't have had to replace it with a BBK. Number of pistons is like number of cylinders. 6 pistons is sometimes better than 4 or 2 but not always, just like 8 cylinders is sometimes better than 6 but not always.
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      08-31-2012, 08:38 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octainejunkee View Post
Something i do find strange tho is that the 135i and the 130i came with optional 6pots?
Id like to know why the M3 and 1M get a lesser caliper than the 130i? lol
The M division did carry out testing with the Brembo produced 6 pot from the 135i and found they gave a lesser result re feedback, stopping distance, contact and heat dispersion. The factory supplied Brembo's are not an aftermarket motorsport derived set up, they are cheaper mass produced calliper supplied to a number of manufacturers for oem use.....
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      08-31-2012, 08:54 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie_in_London View Post
The M division did carry out testing with the Brembo produced 6 pot from the 135i and found they gave a lesser result re feedback, stopping distance, contact and heat dispersion. The factory supplied Brembo's are not an aftermarket motorsport derived set up, they are cheaper mass produced calliper supplied to a number of manufacturers for oem use.....
I'll put this bluntly. The 6-pot calipers are all show and no go. They're crap and don't hold up on track.

The calipers on the 1M and E9x M3 are far superior.

Neil
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      08-31-2012, 09:16 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie_in_London View Post
The M division did carry out testing with the Brembo produced 6 pot from the 135i and found they gave a lesser result re feedback, stopping distance, contact and heat dispersion. The factory supplied Brembo's are not an aftermarket motorsport derived set up, they are cheaper mass produced calliper supplied to a number of manufacturers for oem use.....
+1. Anyone recall all the threads about the ceramic pistons in these breaking/cracking after track use?

FWIW at my HPDE at Lime Rock a couple weeks ago my instructor who drives F2000 cars and is used to porches/track spec z06 vettes jaw hit the floor like when he asked me "wow these brakes are amazing what are these 4 or 6 pots?" and I replied "One ". Lol!
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      08-31-2012, 04:51 PM   #77
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Many are unaware that the 1M/M3 front caliper is very light for a single piston caliper, given that it's made out of aluminium and not conventional cast iron found in most single piston calipers.
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      07-13-2015, 04:45 PM   #78
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Dreaded warped discs on mine. The dealer is convinced its warped not deposits. Had deposits before which went away. This time judder is far more pronounced and at lower speeds.

Are they likely to be correct? My discs look very shiny and though I didn't hold my foot on the brakes stationary, I didn't always get to do proper cool down. The pads were close to limit on fronts when this occurred.

Its an expensive job replacing all four and not something I had budgeted for!
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      07-13-2015, 05:08 PM   #79
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It is extremely easy to check a rotor for warp, or runout.

I have to do it all the time here at work, if we are replacing the rotors under warranty, we have to measure the runout. Just slap a dial gauge on the face of the rotor and measure, takes 5 minutes.

Pad deposits and warp are very easy to tell the difference, as long as you are actually looking for it. Most techs will just feel the vibration and say the rotors are warped and replace them, although, if they had pad deposits, the repair is the same, and the result is the same, so does not really matter.

But if you want to prevent the same thing happening, it is good to know which you have. Pad deposits are mostly caused by parking the car with overheated pads and the pads cooling against one spot on the rotor. Instant horrible vibration. Warped rotors are usually caused by uneven torquing of the wheel nuts. This is why dealer techs usually see 50 cases of warped rotors for every case of pad transfer, 99% of the driving public does not do any track driving.

This is what a warped rotor looks like after the first light pass with a brake lathe:

From this thread. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=972256



The lathe is only touching about half the face on the outside, on the inside of the rotor, it is only touching the top portion, as the entire rotor surface is twisted, or warped.

With bad pad transfer, there is very little runout. Sometimes you can see the pad material sitting on the surface of the rotor.

Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 07-13-2015 at 05:19 PM.
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      07-15-2015, 07:07 PM   #80
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With Carbotech XP10/XP8 and a cool down lap I've never had any such issues on the track.
Maybe I don't brake enough....
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