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      09-22-2012, 06:19 PM   #1
Drawn05
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E92 M3 Rear Subframe + Diff upgrade

Just wanted to post some pics of the E92 M3 subframe that I have bought.

The cheapest I could find was $2340 minus the brake rotors or calipers. Already have the M3 driveshaft so just have to wait the 4-6 weeks for this to arrive.

I was initially looking at getting a Quaife, but after speaking with Peter it seemed like a much better upgrade. You get a M LSD diff, thicker subframe and all the control arms, bushings etc., already installed.

The 135i 6AT diff ratio is 3.46 but this is much shorter at 3.85 as the N/A M3 peaks higher up its rpm band. I am expecting it be like being in DS but only in D mode.

Now I just have to get the front M3 bits to match.

EDIT: This is the box it is shipping in, the sway bar is on top but dont have any pics of it.

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      09-22-2012, 06:43 PM   #2
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So for that price you get a LSD plus bushings and all? Not bad considering a new quaife sets you back at least 3k?

So where do you go about sourcing such an item?
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      09-22-2012, 06:46 PM   #3
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Nice one mate.. the M3 diff and rear suspension setup is magic... Enjoy.
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      09-22-2012, 06:49 PM   #4
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I got this off German ebay. Shipping has been $400 but I assume I will have to pay some customs and brokerage fees when it arrives.

There are a handful of E9X M3 wrecks in Australia. The only price I could get for just the subframe was $4000, but it looked like it had been rear ended, so not a good idea.

The donor car had done 25,000km.
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      09-22-2012, 07:21 PM   #5
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How does it all bolt up to the 6AT box? All nice and easily?

Such a good price though

$2340 + 400 + ~20% fees, still comparable to just an LSD
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      09-22-2012, 07:36 PM   #6
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Iirc it uses the first half of the 135i drive shaft and the last half of the M3 shaft. The M3 shaft also needs to be shortened by a tiny amount.
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      09-22-2012, 08:50 PM   #7
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Good buy Steve! If my 135 was not my daily driver I would jump at the same modification.

From this point I would:

+ Pull the entire subframe apart, strip it and powdercoat it red (or some other colour that makes it stand out like dog's balls.

+ Replace every single bushing with a solid alloy piece. Try Turner Motorsports
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-...uspension.aspx
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-91...nd-mounts.aspx

+ Investigate CW&P ratio swap to 410
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      09-22-2012, 08:55 PM   #8
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Just wondering, is it possible to get the M3 LSD without the entire subframe as opposed to getting a Quaife or other aftermarket LSD?
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      09-22-2012, 08:57 PM   #9
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Please let us know how that drive ratio works out. I suspect 1st gear will be good for only one thing... drawing 11s on the road. Good luck with the install and watch you ass the first time you get that thing out in the rain.
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      09-22-2012, 09:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
Please let us know how that drive ratio works out. I suspect 1st gear will be good for only one thing... drawing 11s on the road. Good luck with the install and watch you ass the first time you get that thing out in the rain.
I'm sure its fine. I was running the auto 3.46 diff in place of my manual 3.08 and it felt great.

This conversion is a great idea - i'm jealous.
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      09-22-2012, 09:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlonde View Post
Good buy Steve! If my 135 was not my daily driver I would jump at the same modification.

From this point I would:

+ Pull the entire subframe apart, strip it and powdercoat it red (or some other colour that makes it stand out like dog's balls.

+ Replace every single bushing with a solid alloy piece. Try Turner Motorsports
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-...uspension.aspx
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-91...nd-mounts.aspx

+ Investigate CW&P ratio swap to 410
I think you should do it anyway Kenny. 300rwkw in your daily going to just one wheel....I could ask the guy I got mine from if can a 3.15 version for you

What would be the reasoning behind the the powdercoating? It looks pretty neat and tidy as is.

If I can save some cash when I purchase my coilovers, I might get the Turner diff mounts + subframe bushings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
Just wondering, is it possible to get the M3 LSD without the entire subframe as opposed to getting a Quaife or other aftermarket LSD?
Yes, the guy I bought this off has a M3 diff by itself for sale for approx. 1000 euros. BUT, you cant just replace the 135i diff with the M diff as it requires the M half shafts and M drive shaft. M half shafts are thicker and stronger so if you can source them in addition to the M diff you wouldnt need the rest of the subframe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
Please let us know how that drive ratio works out. I suspect 1st gear will be good for only one thing... drawing 11s on the road. Good luck with the install and watch you ass the first time you get that thing out in the rain.
A member on here, Peter@Advan (Skycat) has done this same swap with his e92 335i. I tested his setup a few months ago and it was still extremely drivable in regular traffic but felt more 'urgent' when giving it the beans.
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      09-22-2012, 09:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
Please let us know how that drive ratio works out. I suspect 1st gear will be good for only one thing... drawing 11s on the road. Good luck with the install and watch you ass the first time you get that thing out in the rain.
I ran a 445 diff in my M Coupe on the street with more power and it was great. Each to their own.
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      09-22-2012, 10:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drawn05 View Post
I think you should do it anyway Kenny. 300rwkw in your daily going to just one wheel....I could ask the guy I got mine from if can a 3.15 version for you
Once you start modifying, you start breaking!
Quote:
What would be the reasoning behind the the powdercoating? It looks pretty neat and tidy as is.
It calls to attention you've got an M3 subframe in there. You do stuff like that up front while everything is apart or not at all.
Quote:
If I can save some cash when I purchase my coilovers, I might get the Turner diff mounts + subframe bushings.
Again, do it all up front while it is apart. Otherwise your labour costs will double getting Chris to pull it out and bolt it up again.
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      09-23-2012, 02:10 AM   #14
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Someone told me that the M3 rear subframe swap is the only way to completely get rid of the bump steer issues with the 135i rear suspension. If so it seems like a great upgrade, but I think its a bigger mod than I'm prepared to do to my car.

I'm wondering if the rear track width is going to be the same as before or if it might reduce the rear fender clearance further.
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      09-23-2012, 05:15 AM   #15
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i take it that 3.85 in an 6AT is similar in effect to going to a 3.46 in a 6MT?

3.85 in a 6MT would be way too short?, 7000rpm in 6th would be less than 250km/h, and that's assuming you have the setup to rev that high, 6500 puts you at 216.. with a ratio that short, it would limit you on the track (one that had a good straight) just about even? not the strip though, i guess.

though even on the street, 3000rpm would do 100 nicely...
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      09-23-2012, 07:37 AM   #16
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This is basically what the 1M has underneath it's rear end. But the 1M has a hybrid driave shaft... M3 in the rear half, and 135i in the front half. How will you bolt up the M3 drive shaft>?

Also... I think you will have to flare your rear fenders because your rear wheels will be sitting further out (~2cm) plus, wider track.

You get a +1 in my book for going ahead with this project!


Dack


PS: stick with the OE M3 subframe bushings. They work just fine for the street and track. I have them in my 135i.
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      09-23-2012, 07:41 AM   #17
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Niiiiceeeee!

Should be a good mod.. keen to see how the gearing works out.

I know solid aluminium bushings have near zero flex, but on a daily driven car that's likely to invoke a lot of NVH... The Turner site themselves say it's recommeded only for race cars or something to that effect.
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      09-23-2012, 07:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
This is basically what the 1M has underneath it's rear end. But the 1M has a hybrid driave shaft... M3 in the rear half, and 135i in the front half. How will you bolt up the M3 drive shaft>?

Also... I think you will have to flare your rear fenders because your rear wheels will be sitting further out (~2cm) plus, wider track.

You get a +1 in my book for going ahead with this project!


Dack


PS: stick with the OE M3 subframe bushings. They work just fine for the street and track. I have them in my 135i.
We will hook up the drive shaft the same way; 135i up front with M3 (slightly shortened) at the rear.

The halfshafts of the 135 and 335 are exactly the same, it is the offset that makes the difference. Peter/Skycat has done this swap on his 335i and the wheels fitted exactly the same as the stock halfshafts. So the 1er ET:52 should compliment the M3s ET:23
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      09-23-2012, 08:21 PM   #19
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me want
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      09-23-2012, 08:24 PM   #20
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If anyone is interested, there's an M3 differential (DCT ratio of 3.15) on eBay for $1,050. Looks pretty clean... 6k miles. Tempting!
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      09-23-2012, 08:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavo335 View Post
me want
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
If anyone is interested, there's an M3 differential (DCT ratio of 3.15) on eBay for $1,050. Looks pretty clean... 6k miles. Tempting!
There you go Paul. One problem with ebay is finding a seller that will ship to Australia, or if they will, without gouging the crap out of you.
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      09-23-2012, 08:54 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
If anyone is interested, there's an M3 differential (DCT ratio of 3.15) on eBay for $1,050. Looks pretty clean... 6k miles. Tempting!
WHICH EBAY, WHERE!!!! TELL ME NOW!

pretty please
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