m3 rear bar myth: let`s finish this!! - Page 4 - BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)

AnooooOH · 10-21-2012, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flinchy

130i owner here, going hard around a corner my back lets go way too easily (245's right now)

i'd definitely nook at a 255/265 rear with 245 front even without any more power

the 225 front is only too small if i go in too hot, but the 245 rear is too small under just about any kind of hard acceleration, even in a straight light the traction control light blinks WAY too freaking often.

so as someone who CURRENTLY drives a 130i, i can definitely say you're not right

haha, okay!!

your 130i seems to have lot more power than mine!

you know that the traction control isn`t the best in the 130i?
There`s a big problem from 0-60. I hated it!
Especially with wider tires! had 225/255 and 215/245 mounted btw.
keep dtc in position 2 and try again, you will see that everything works fine!
more mass needs more time to get fast.

going wider in the front is the stupiest thing you can do because the 130 is understeering as hell!

your rear lets go too easy when you`re going fast threw a corner?
with an understeering car? not bad!!

Fidiman · 10-21-2012, 08:34 AM

I was 205 front with my previous summer set and after mounting 225 front on my 18", I was ... waouh :O ! There was so much grip front !

Moreover, that was the same for the rear : more stable ! I came from 225 to 255 and it was night and day ! That's why, like the others, I would recommand to swap the 225 rear to 245 or 255

AnooooOH · 10-21-2012, 08:41 AM

yes, but you have to see it in combination!!

205/225 is shit!!
225/225 is great!!

Plus it`s just a matter of taste!
I like it when I can feels what the rear is doing!
when you feel more safe with 255, then go for em!

AnooooOH · 10-21-2012, 08:42 AM

but I don`t want to OT this thread so please let`s stop the tire discussion at this point and lets move back to the rear bar!

Purple Derple · 10-21-2012, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

but I don`t want to OT this thread so please let`s stop the tire discussion at this point and lets move back to the rear bar!

Why bother even asking when you aren't receptive to anyone's advice? End the thread and buy whatever your heart desires no matter how wrong it may be.

flinchy · 10-22-2012, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

haha, okay!!

your 130i seems to have lot more power than mine!

you know that the traction control isn`t the best in the 130i?
There`s a big problem from 0-60. I hated it!
Especially with wider tires! had 225/255 and 215/245 mounted btw.
keep dtc in position 2 and try again, you will see that everything works fine!
more mass needs more time to get fast.

going wider in the front is the stupiest thing you can do because the 130 is understeering as hell!

your rear lets go too easy when you`re going fast threw a corner?
with an understeering car? not bad!!

hahah when i turn the TC off it's single peggers all over the place! DTC pressed bogs down heaps too, so lame... if i do it right with teh DTC pressed once it can get a pretty good launch (or burnout) though yeah. gotta be pretty precise!

NO, wider front REDUCES!!!!! understeer, add grip to the front, remove from the rear and you'll oversteer!

don't get me wrong, it definitely has understeer, when going SLOW, say around a roundabout, my back wheel will clip the kerb where my front has cleared it..
and yeah, it's not like the back will magically step out on you, i've got TONS of grip both front and rear.. . but when .. say on a long sweeper, the front doesn't suddenly slide out way before the rear, even with my 225/245 it's extremely extremely balanced, and the back will step out first.

i'd like less understeer in dynamics, rather than a 'grip' sense... less body roll secondly.. (bringing it back to the sway bar conversation) and yeah of course more grip third.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purple Derple

Why bother even asking when you aren't receptive to anyone's advice? End the thread and buy whatever your heart desires no matter how wrong it may be.

the fact is, a rear sway bar with no supporting mods will reduce rear end grip which will make it easier to go sideways, but will NOT let you go around a corner faster. end of story.

AnooooOH · 10-22-2012, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purple Derple

Why bother even asking when you aren't receptive to anyone's advice? End the thread and buy whatever your heart desires no matter how wrong it may be.

This thread is drifting to OT because we are now only talking about tire measurements for the 128i and 130i!

fourtailpipes · 10-22-2012, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

This thread is drifting to OT because we are now only talking about tire measurements for the 128i and 130i!

this is not at all off topic. we're trying to explain to you why the rear swaybar is a bad idea... because you've already done a lot to impair rear end traction.

i just confirmed ac schnitzer's recommendation of 225 square and a rear swaybar (i had to check... almost didn't believe it myself). this truly solidifies my opinion that ac schnitzer is a joke.

AnooooOH · 10-22-2012, 12:37 PM

okay, I already sold the rear bar!

but the car was way faster on the nordschleife as with the bmw performance suspension with 215/245 and the front bar!

cvc 22349a · 10-31-2012, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryS

http://www.hpashop.com/HP-Autowerks-...2-e9x-nonM.htm

Those RE toe links suck! The spherical bearings wear out fast and get noisy. RE/HPA won't replace them either; well they will for $30. ea. See my RE toe link thread on E90post.
Megan Racing sells rear toe links with ball joints and no one has complained about them being noisy.

Fidiman · 10-31-2012, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

okay, I already sold the rear bar!

but the car was way faster on the nordschleife as with the bmw performance suspension with 215/245 and the front bar!

God job bro

!

A member said rear bar was only useful when you get a LSD in addition of the front sway bar.

IMO, the configuration you said is very different from yours : complete suspension kit, front sway bar and different size of tires front and rear

It should works better !

flinchy · 10-31-2012, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

Those RE toe links suck! The spherical bearings wear out fast and get noisy. RE/HPA won't replace them either; well they will for $30. ea. See my RE toe link thread on E90post.
Megan Racing sells rear toe links with ball joints and no one has complained about them being noisy.

link to the megan racing toe links? i'm going to get myself a set soon, so reliable ones would be nice lol

AnooooOH · 10-31-2012, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fidiman

God job bro

!

A member said rear bar was only useful when you get a LSD in addition of the front sway bar.

IMO, the configuration you said is very different from yours : complete suspension kit, front sway bar and different size of tires front and rear

It should works better !

I think it depends on the spring rates.
the acs suspension will need the rear bar.

but i thought of getting bilstein coils now.

flinchy · 10-31-2012, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

I think it depends on the spring rates.
the acs suspension will need the rear bar.

but i thought of getting bilstein coils now.

it's all a balancing act

too high spring rate and car gets bouncy

too stiff roll bars and the car loses traction

etc.

AnooooOH · 10-31-2012, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flinchy

it's all a balancing act

too high spring rate and car gets bouncy

too stiff roll bars and the car loses traction

etc.

yes!
and that made me getting the coils first and then I`ll see what it needs more!

flinchy · 10-31-2012, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

yes!
and that made me getting the coils first and then I`ll see what it needs more!

M3 control arms is a win-win mod, stiffer, lighter, slight camber, not too pricey (for the front at least)

Fidiman · 10-31-2012, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

I think it depends on the spring rates.
the acs suspension will need the rear bar.
but i thought of getting bilstein coils now.

Yep, I thibk so too

But, for the coils, you could simply buy a set of sport suspension plus mouting them with your springs (for exemple with your ProKit : the Bilstein B8

).

Then you will save money and have it for other mods

AnooooOH · 10-31-2012, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flinchy

M3 control arms is a win-win mod, stiffer, lighter, slight camber, not too pricey (for the front at least)

okay, I`ll think and read about it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fidiman

Yep, I thibk so too

But, for the coils, you could simply buy a set of sport suspension plus mouting them with your springs (for exemple with your ProKit : the Bilstein B8

).

Then you will save money and have it for other mods

Naah!!

The dampers cost the same amount than the complete pro-kit suspension with springs. What`s about 600 Euro.
The Bilstein is about 860 Euro. And I don`t have much more mods on my list.
The car is now 11 month old and I`m really almost done!

Just ordered 1M mirrors today and next thing is the acs tune.

flinchy · 10-31-2012, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

okay, I`ll think and read about it!

Naah!!

The dampers cost the same amount than the complete pro-kit suspension with springs. What`s about 600 Euro.
The Bilstein is about 860 Euro. And I don`t have much more mods on my list.
The car is now 11 month old and I`m really almost done!

Just ordered 1M mirrors today and next thing is the acs tune.

check out the thread in this forum i made, shows cheapest place to buy it

M3 front control arms (Upper and lower) - A couple of $hundred less than everywhere
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736789

GaryS · 10-31-2012, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cvc 22349a

Those RE toe links suck! The spherical bearings wear out fast and get noisy. RE/HPA won't replace them either; well they will for $30. ea. See my RE toe link thread on E90post.
Megan Racing sells rear toe links with ball joints and no one has complained about them being noisy.

Mine survived 16 track days and daily driving this year, and they're still silent. For $60, I should probably just make it a routine replacement when I get my alignment in March. But we'll see. So far, I don't have a problem.

AnooooOH · 11-01-2012, 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flinchy

check out the thread in this forum i made, shows cheapest place to buy it

M3 front control arms (Upper and lower) - A couple of $hundred less than everywhere
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=736789

Thank you!

But since I`m from germany, I get cheaper prices plus shipping and customs would kill it too!

flinchy · 11-01-2012, 04:58 AM

shipping would bring the total up by less than it would for me, and i'm not too sure on your customs laws, but most countries have a $ limit on when you have to pay fees

just make sure to source 'trw' items and you'll save $150ish USD over BMW items.

10-21-2012, 08:34 AM	#68
Fidiman Second Lieutenant Drives: BMW 120d e82 M Sportpaket Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: France Posts: 256 iTrader: (0) Garage List 2010 120d E82 [0.00]	I was 205 front with my previous summer set and after mounting 225 front on my 18", I was ... waouh :O ! There was so much grip front ! Moreover, that was the same for the rear : more stable ! I came from 225 to 255 and it was night and day ! That's why, like the others, I would recommand to swap the 225 rear to 245 or 255 __________________ 2010 e82 120d : TiAg/Blk, M Sport package, Stage 1 chiptuning 222hp 345lb/ft, CDV, BMC airfilter, VMR vb3 BMW Performance : strut brace, pedals, gear konb and emergency brake, side skirts, spoiler, diffuser, exhaust ... I know, I have quite all the Perf' stuff

10-21-2012, 08:41 AM	#69
AnooooOH Captain Drives: 135i Join Date: May 2009 Location: Germoney Posts: 741 iTrader: (0)	yes, but you have to see it in combination!! 205/225 is shit!! 225/225 is great!! Plus it`s just a matter of taste! I like it when I can feels what the rear is doing! when you feel more safe with 255, then go for em! __________________ ((( 135i PERFORMONSTER ))) AC-Schnitzer, aFe Stage 2, Bilstein B16 http://www.1erforum.de/umbauten/135i...ter-96031.html

10-21-2012, 08:42 AM	#70
AnooooOH Captain Drives: 135i Join Date: May 2009 Location: Germoney Posts: 741 iTrader: (0)	but I don`t want to OT this thread so please let`s stop the tire discussion at this point and lets move back to the rear bar! __________________ ((( 135i PERFORMONSTER ))) AC-Schnitzer, aFe Stage 2, Bilstein B16 http://www.1erforum.de/umbauten/135i...ter-96031.html

10-22-2012, 12:37 PM	#75
AnooooOH Captain Drives: 135i Join Date: May 2009 Location: Germoney Posts: 741 iTrader: (0)	okay, I already sold the rear bar! but the car was way faster on the nordschleife as with the bmw performance suspension with 215/245 and the front bar! __________________ ((( 135i PERFORMONSTER ))) AC-Schnitzer, aFe Stage 2, Bilstein B16 http://www.1erforum.de/umbauten/135i...ter-96031.html

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11-01-2012, 04:58 AM	#88
flinchy Lieutenant Colonel Drives: 130i Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: QLD, Australia Posts: 1,742 iTrader: (0)	shipping would bring the total up by less than it would for me, and i'm not too sure on your customs laws, but most countries have a $ limit on when you have to pay fees just make sure to source 'trw' items and you'll save $150ish USD over BMW items.