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| 10-25-2012, 01:42 PM | #1 |
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Crowing
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DIY instrument gauge needle replace
just wanted to throw this link out there. really good video on how to get the cluster out and replace the needles.
http://www.bimmian.com/M-Style-Red-N...r-E91-3-Series
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![]() 2009 135i |
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| 10-25-2012, 05:04 PM | #4 |
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↓↓↓ Ex-Con ↓↓↓
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As would I. Strange that they say in the video they are designed to be put on only once. Does that mean they break if you try and take them off?
On a side note, they do look to be a bit of a low quality item. Just look at their pictures. There is not a smooth surface anywhere on the needles. Obviously, the mold used does not have very close tolerances. |
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| 10-25-2012, 09:19 PM | #5 |
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Crowing
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Not endorsing the needles just the install video. I'm going see what I can do with the LEDs and gauge faces. Maybe play with the needles. See how ballsy I get. Was really surprised its only 2 screws holding the cluster in.
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| 10-25-2012, 09:31 PM | #6 |
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Crowing
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Why would you be scared to press on the needles to instal them? I mean it makes sense to not push if it is taking more force than what it took to get them off. I don't think it would be to bad. I might try to color mine blue.
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| 10-26-2012, 08:54 AM | #7 |
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Crowing
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also a really good DIY post on N54 Tech
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10889
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| 11-04-2012, 04:01 PM | #8 |
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New Member
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great post thx for the site link
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N54 Stage 3 E82 MT, DCI aFe,CHARGEPIPE,SINGLE BOV&FMIC ACTIVE AUTOWERKES, NST CRANK PULLEY, 3' BMS DP, M PERFORMANCE EXHAUST, BMS MCV, BMS OCC, BMS 2STEP, JB4 G5 board at 19.5psi,
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| 11-04-2012, 04:12 PM | #9 |
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New Member
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anyone have an idea where to buy m1 face gauge or copy of it
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N54 Stage 3 E82 MT, DCI aFe,CHARGEPIPE,SINGLE BOV&FMIC ACTIVE AUTOWERKES, NST CRANK PULLEY, 3' BMS DP, M PERFORMANCE EXHAUST, BMS MCV, BMS OCC, BMS 2STEP, JB4 G5 board at 19.5psi,
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| 11-04-2012, 05:15 PM | #10 |
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Captain
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anyone know anything about the gauge rings in the video for the 1 series?
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| 11-04-2012, 09:22 PM | #13 |
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Crowing
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hey guys, i'm going to be putting white face gauges that say 135i in the tach and MPower in the spedo on when i replace the leds behind the gauges. i'm going to update this when i get it done with pics and videos. thinking about painting the rings around the gauges. we'll see how everything looks when its going back together. should get the replacement led's in a couple weeks. ill update once its all done. hopefully it doesn't look stupid.
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| 11-04-2012, 10:33 PM | #14 | |
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Private First Class
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Quote:
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| 11-04-2012, 10:54 PM | #15 |
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Captain
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I'd be curious to know how the needles are for removing / installing. I had a Probe GT that I experimented with a junkyard gauge setup, and every needle was so well stuck on its post that pulling on them ripped the entire post out in the process. Definitely 1-way trip. My Eclipse however was very easy, they held in place by friction but it was low enough that the needles could go on and off several times. Would like to know how the 1-er's are. It appears to be the latter style, though their talk of it being a 1-way trip is strange.
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| 11-05-2012, 03:15 AM | #16 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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I did that few times it is not scary and easy job.
Taking of the needles you have to use playing card to put on the dial/face under the needle then take flat screw driver put it between needle and turn it needle will pop off. NOTE putting back all needles you have to put them lower than zero because when you connect speedo back to car and turn ignition on they will slightly go up and stay like that. Last edited by RimasRS; 11-05-2012 at 05:02 AM. |
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| 11-05-2012, 12:40 PM | #17 |
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Crowing
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i already got the gauge faces from online and there getting the 135i and m symbol put on right now. now i'm just waiting for the led's. cant wait. i think it's going to look really good.
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![]() 2009 135i |
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| 11-05-2012, 05:54 PM | #19 |
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Private First Class
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| 11-05-2012, 07:42 PM | #20 | |
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Lieutenant
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waterford, Mi
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I believe this is the case with the needles, and they are designed in such a way that they kind of are damaged during removal, and won't fit on correctly a second time. However some companies do make parts that quite literally break when removed and need to be replaced each time. Quite frustrating if you boss happens to ask you to remove one of these parts several times in a row... |
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| 11-05-2012, 08:37 PM | #21 |
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Crowing
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The video above and the DIY link doesn't make it seem like they will break if removed. It seems almost as if its tapered so the farther down you push the tighter it gets. If it feels like they're going to break and don't come of as easily as described I'm going to leave them alone. And be really pissed. There definitely isn't any newer bmws let alone any 1 series in any junk yards in this state. Anyone know what a part number would be for the LCD display in between the cluster?
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| 11-06-2012, 06:40 PM | #22 | |
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↓↓↓ Ex-Con ↓↓↓
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Quote:
I also know that no endorsement of the mentioned product was made in this thread. It was simply a good to know kind of thing so I am not making any implications towards anybody here. ![]() |
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