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      11-11-2012, 09:08 PM   #1
EuroTunerz5
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OEM M3 paddles for DCT e8X Progress Thread

Okay guys so as some of you know I purchased oem m3 DCT paddles, extended f1 paddle upgrades, and a complete m3 oem wheel. Install was smooth as butter and right off the bat I know as far as the paddles go I had to switch the wire in pin 2 on the m3 paddles to pin 1. However as most of you reported it still doesn't work. So I took the paddles apart and inspected each circuit board. The result? Well, the LCI oem DCT paddles for the e8x have tiny resistors inline on the board to regulate the current while the oem m3 paddles do not. I believe this is the reason the m3 paddles don't work so I am going to attempt to add resistors inline on each wire from the paddles and see if I can get these working! If I can the hope is that someone like BMS will produce a small PNP harness with resistors to helps us all out! Pics coming soon!!
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      11-11-2012, 09:37 PM   #2
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10355838&postcount=22

If you look in this thread you will see the exact inverse of what I am attempting. This shows the LCI paddle resistors and in their case they needed to short them out of the circuit. We need to add them in for DCT trans. I will keep you all updated!
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      11-12-2012, 02:19 PM   #3
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M3 paddles are alive on my DCT 135i!!!!! I am super stoked but I have a ways to go yet. I need to get the correct resistor so it triggers the shift right now it's feeding what I believe is just a hair too much power still. The left paddle goes to M1 then straight to M2 which leads me to believe I still have a touch too much current. I am SOOOOOOO close to having these work perfectly!
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      11-13-2012, 06:37 AM   #4
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Yes!! Awesome, waiting for results. Still need pics
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      11-13-2012, 09:43 PM   #5
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I know so sorry I use my iPhone to post 99% of the time! Pics look amazing! I am still tinkering with different resistors to dial in the proper voltage needed to trigger the shift. Tough to explain but before the resistor the paddles were not responsive. After the resistor I installed it triggered the system to shift but the power passing through the paddles is causing it to shift on its own slightly and get stuck in M2. I actually duplicated the resistors that are on our factory DCT paddles in the circuit board but that didn't work so far. So frustrating and yet exciting and intriguing.
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      11-19-2012, 09:24 AM   #6
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It's probably easier to have custom paddles machined to fit the stock switches, but best of luck now that you're this deep into it.

Keep us updated! (preferable in just one thread)
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      11-19-2012, 08:40 PM   #7
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That's why I started this thread to keep it in one spot... The key is to get the first one working after that it should be easy to reproduce for other cars. I didn't have time the last few days to work on it but I am going Wednesday to get different resistors and try to get this sucker working correctly!
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      11-19-2012, 08:40 PM   #8
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Very frustrating but I won't be defeated
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      11-23-2012, 02:19 AM   #9
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Do you have a good pic of the stock paddles removed from the switch?
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      01-28-2013, 05:53 PM   #10
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Awesome stuff! Pics haha
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      06-11-2013, 08:49 PM   #11
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bump!!
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      06-16-2013, 07:16 PM   #12
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Any luck?
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      06-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #13
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Bump
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      11-29-2013, 08:13 PM   #14
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Any progress!??
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      11-30-2013, 09:02 AM   #15
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Please let this happen!!!
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      12-03-2013, 04:44 AM   #16
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No updates in just over a year. Sadly, I think we all know the final answer on this.
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      12-03-2013, 12:53 PM   #17
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Ya sad but true mr kleen! I have a buddy who can fab parts. I will ask him about possibly milling a couple sets of extended paddles and send him mine to make a replica of stock e82 paddles extended if possible I will keep you posted !
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      12-03-2013, 02:04 PM   #18
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As I understand it the 1er DCT steering wheel paddles aren't removable from the actual switch mechanism. I would love to have one to experiment with but they're expensive and I only have one car. That's why I requested pictures of the switches removed from the wheel. I had mine out when I swapped steering wheels but didn't think to take pictures at the time.

I think the best bet would be to take a molding of the existing switch and then use some sort of plastic to build up a larger switch around the existing one (if that makes any sense).
I also think it would be cool if the + and - were back lit.
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      02-08-2014, 10:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Kleen View Post
As I understand it the 1er DCT steering wheel paddles aren't removable from the actual switch mechanism. I would love to have one to experiment with but they're expensive and I only have one car. That's why I requested pictures of the switches removed from the wheel. I had mine out when I swapped steering wheels but didn't think to take pictures at the time.

I think the best bet would be to take a molding of the existing switch and then use some sort of plastic to build up a larger switch around the existing one (if that makes any sense).
I also think it would be cool if the + and - were back lit.
Actually I've hear of people removing the DCT paddles and placing aftermarket paddles on the DCT switching mechanism.
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      02-10-2014, 08:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurospeed View Post
Actually I've hear of people removing the DCT paddles and placing aftermarket paddles on the DCT switching mechanism.
Pix please, would love to see it and hear the details. I've heard about it but have yet to get solid facts.
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      02-25-2014, 09:53 PM   #21
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In for the pics. You're a pioneer my friend
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