FORUMS
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| 11-29-2012, 08:57 PM | #1 |
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New Member
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Single Turbo vs Twin Turbos
Of the many cars I've had my last car was a Mazdaspeed3 Single Turbo. In that car you could REALLY feel the turbo. In the 135i I can barely feel the turbos. Is that because its 2 smaller turbos vs 1 bigger one? Also a BOOST gauge in the 135i would've been nice. But maybe since you can't really feel the turbos in the 135i that's why it doesn't have a gauge?
Thoughts? |
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| 11-29-2012, 09:11 PM | #2 |
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Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waterford, Mi
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You're not feeling the boost in your speed3... you're feeling the lack of it.
Turbo lag is the feeling you are getting, the time when you push the pedal down, and there is nothing until all of a sudden you're thrown back in your seat because the turbo finally comes on. The twin turbo has significantly less lag because there are two smaller turbos rather than one large one to create the desired effect. Since there is less lag, there is more power initially when you put your foot down, and thus less of that feeling as the turbo spools up to more boost. ^This is the very short answer. Most turbo vehicles dont have a boost gauge. For the average driver it isn't necessary, so most oem's dont include it. Its added cost for little gain more than a novelty item because most oem boost gauges aren't made very accurate. |
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| 11-29-2012, 09:59 PM | #3 | |
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Space Admiral
Drives: 135i Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chicago
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If you look at BMW's sales and service documentation, they make a huge deal out of the fact that you can't "feel" the turbo. The idea is that you should feel the full power band at the lower RPM's, and the car should respond like a naturally aspirated engine. When you "feel" the turbo kicking in, that just means that you didn't have enough boost at the lower end.
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2008 135i Montego Blue sport pkg, premium pkg, Logic 7 sound, iDrive/Nav
Mods completed: JB4+ & FBO || LSD || BMW-P suspension + F/R sway bars || 18" Breyton GTS-R || M3 front bushings || Vogtland camber plates || BMW-P rotors + Stoptech pads |||| Acquired, not installed: BMS WW Meth kit || Logic HVI intake || Mishimoto OCC |||| Shopping for: Summer tires |
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| 11-29-2012, 10:39 PM | #4 |
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New Member
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Thanks for the replies. Makes sense however a boost gauge is more than a novelty. The 135i can't be in FULL BOOST the entire RPM range. It would be helpful if I could visually see when the Turbo's are in full boost.
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| 11-29-2012, 11:02 PM | #5 | |
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.
Drives: 2011 BMW 135i Coupé Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Minnesota
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2011 Black Sapphire Metallic / Coral Red
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| 11-29-2012, 11:07 PM | #6 |
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Space Admiral
Drives: 135i Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chicago
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Well, she wouldn't be running any boost in a 328i. But yeah, I agree with your point.
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2008 135i Montego Blue sport pkg, premium pkg, Logic 7 sound, iDrive/Nav
Mods completed: JB4+ & FBO || LSD || BMW-P suspension + F/R sway bars || 18" Breyton GTS-R || M3 front bushings || Vogtland camber plates || BMW-P rotors + Stoptech pads |||| Acquired, not installed: BMS WW Meth kit || Logic HVI intake || Mishimoto OCC |||| Shopping for: Summer tires |
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| 11-29-2012, 11:09 PM | #7 |
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Vrooom :)
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the new 328i have a turbo 4... and I believe u can access the boost gauge through iDrive, at least I think my mom's 335i does that. If not boost, I know it tells you HP and Torque
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2009 128i Coupe Crimson Red
MODS: -Injen Intake-Magnaflow Exhaust-Carbon Fiber Spoiler - Carbon Fiber Grilles - OZ Ultraleggeras - CF Mirrors |
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| 11-30-2012, 02:13 AM | #9 |
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Captain
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Go and get either a Procede or a JB4. You can change the dials on your instrument cluster to show the fuel gauge as a boost gauge. Each notch is 2.5 psi I believe so it shows up to a maximum of 20 psi.
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| 11-30-2012, 04:08 AM | #11 | |
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Captain
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![]() 2013 BMW 135i Alpine white/coral red JB4 stage 2/ AFE stage 2 sealed intake box/ VRSF 3.5 inch catless dp/ Dinan exhaust/ Alpine V3 6000k HID angel eyes/ JB speed AW rear lip spoiler/ OEM mud flaps. ER charge pipe/ VRSF 7 inch FMIC forge star CF5s 19x8.5 and 19x9 |
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| 11-30-2012, 09:29 AM | #12 | |
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Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waterford, Mi
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| 11-30-2012, 03:09 PM | #13 |
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Mbira
Drives: Sedonna Red 09 135i SOLD Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Garage cleaning Brake Dust
Posts: 923
iTrader: (3)
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I have to agree that a Turbo car should have a boost gauge for monitoring.... I had a Defi Boost gauge in my last car and loved it and now have the P3 Vent Boost gauge in my 135i which IMO is OEM looking and quality....amazing piece and should be standard on the 135i...it's that nice.
As far as "feeling" the boost like in a Speed3 or STI....yea, its the shitty lag of those cars your are feeling and then you get bombarded with boost from the turbo...it's fun for a bit but after a very short period the lag get's real old....The refinement of having 2 Turbo's and very little lag is really nice on the BMW ... |
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| 12-02-2012, 11:47 PM | #14 | |
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New Member
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| 12-03-2012, 02:23 AM | #15 |
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Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waterford, Mi
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| 12-03-2012, 06:47 AM | #17 |
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Captain
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He's probobly referring to my post where I said that BMW rates the engines being capable of 300lbs of tq from 1500 rpm up to the 5k range. At least that's what the graph shows in the brochure on the page with engine info. Then I said that's why there's practically no lag because not long past idle it's making the max tq that its rated at. So inbetween those numbers (1500-5000rpm) would be a good guess as to when it should be in full boost.
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![]() 2013 BMW 135i Alpine white/coral red JB4 stage 2/ AFE stage 2 sealed intake box/ VRSF 3.5 inch catless dp/ Dinan exhaust/ Alpine V3 6000k HID angel eyes/ JB speed AW rear lip spoiler/ OEM mud flaps. ER charge pipe/ VRSF 7 inch FMIC forge star CF5s 19x8.5 and 19x9 |
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| 12-03-2012, 09:16 AM | #18 |
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New Member
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I think it's very interesting how nobody really KNOWS exactly when the car is at full boost yet BMW doesn't put a boost gauge on a blown car.
BTW yes I was referring to Bmwbreed post. I STILL don't know when the car is at full or partial boost. |
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| 12-03-2012, 09:36 AM | #19 | |
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Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: AW 135i Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waterford, Mi
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| 12-03-2012, 09:53 AM | #20 | ||
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Captain
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__________________
![]() 2013 BMW 135i Alpine white/coral red JB4 stage 2/ AFE stage 2 sealed intake box/ VRSF 3.5 inch catless dp/ Dinan exhaust/ Alpine V3 6000k HID angel eyes/ JB speed AW rear lip spoiler/ OEM mud flaps. ER charge pipe/ VRSF 7 inch FMIC forge star CF5s 19x8.5 and 19x9 |
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| 12-03-2012, 10:45 AM | #21 | |
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TIM YOYO
Drives: 2011 135i - Silver 6MT M-sport Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 503
iTrader: (0)
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Peak boost is not necessarily peak power (horsepower). Peak boost will often correspond with peak force (ft-lbs/newton-meters), but if you're driving for performance, you're more interested in power band and power peak. If you're interested in knowing where your engine performs best, go do a dyno run. They're usually pretty cheap. If you're running stock, you can just Google image search for 135i N55 dyno and browse the results to get a feeling for where your car is making power. If you're drag racing, you're most interested in determining shift points. Those are based on acceleration profiles for each gear. Peak acceleration should occur with peak power, so once you have a dyno, you know your shift point (or roughly). With a turbo car, you can sometimes benefit from short shifting a bit. If you really want to know, you get an accelerometer app for your smartphone, and you datalog an acceleration run in each gear. You combine the plots, and you look for the cross-overs. That's your shift point.
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2010 135i - TiAg Coral Red 6MT ///M-Sport
2013 X3 28i - N20 Mineral Silver / Sand Beige / Premium, Tech |
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| 12-04-2012, 06:31 AM | #22 |
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Lieutenant Colonel
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a boost gague is more useful for diagnosing issues, if you're not hodling boost smoothly, or not hitting targets, you can clearly see it on a gauge...
also, due to how gearing works, acceleration at redline relative to in a higher gear should pretty much always be better.. unless your car REALLY tapers off badly. all you have to look out for is don't hit the limiter, as the car retards and loses LOTS of power and acceleration. |
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