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      12-21-2012, 03:01 PM   #23
Dackelone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike the snake View Post
Thanks for posting!!

My car's going in Monday to have the rear links checked.

I'm not sure if it's the E-diff, or something with the rear suspension, but my car goes anything but straight in 1st and 2nd gear at WOT.

Other cars with open diffs that I've driven would simply light up the lesser loaded rear wheel. My cars with LSD's the rear would break loose predictably and were easily controlled with countersteering, but my 135 literally whips the back end out when the tires break loose (while going straight).

My race car came VERY close to superceding the laws of physics and I could control it even at WOT with both 13" wide Goodyear radial slicks lit up, and it was probably one of THE hardest cars to control in a slide. My 135 scares me.

Maybe what your feeling is the rear subframe bushing being all weak and letting the rear end toe change when under power.

The rear bushings are garbage! Put some M3 bishings in there and you will be so happy. I remember what my car felt like with the OE rear bushings... when I would crack the throttle open(not WOT) just enough to built up some HP, the rear end would squat and wiggle around. IF the road was bumpy you really had no idea which way the rear end you break. Made me write that the rear axle was held in place by simple rubber bands.

Once I had the M3 rear bushings installed.... it transformed my 135i. I think they made the biggest change to the front end of the car. The car now tracked straight(er) and you didn't have to constantly correct while going straight down the road under some sort of power(juice/boost).

Honestly you will be so happy once you get rid of those rear sub frame bushings.


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      12-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #24
mike the snake
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Thanks, I already had the M3 rear subframe bushings installed. I installed the Ohlins R&T coilovers, M3 subframe bushings, and Apex wheels with PSS tires all installed at the same time.

They did make the rear much better, especially in fast, bumpy turns, where the back end didn't waggle around as much.
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      12-22-2012, 10:38 AM   #25
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Glad you posted about this, I've experienced this too. Now I know what I need to do to my suspension lol.
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      06-27-2013, 05:11 AM   #26
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Sorry to bring this back up from the dead, but after having a tune done to my car, I've also noticed the car squirm as well going down the straight. I haven't turned off the nannies, and the lights on my dash aren't flashing. Maybe enough for me to notice (and get scared) but not enough for the electronic aids to kick in? Never noticed this in stock mode. So subframe bushings should fix this right?
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      06-27-2013, 07:32 AM   #27
Madgambler
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Hi,

Not sure about whether this behaviour is diff related or weight-distribution related, but I've noticed something like this on my M135i auto.

I posted a while back about a sensation similar to torque steer at full throttle.

I imagine the tilt of engine on its soft mounts could make the car temporarily heaver on the right hand side because of the longitudial mounting arrangement. Or at least the engine rock could feel a little like that through the steering wheel anyway.
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      06-27-2013, 08:13 AM   #28
uberschnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Mike - I would look at your rear suspension links. #18 & #19 in this diagram....

Attachment 782498


I remember Harold at HPA saying they go bad all the time. He sells the M3 links to increase traction off the line. I bet your are bad/worn out. I think a four wheel alignment wouldn't hurt matters either.


BMW Rear Guide Rod Kit - Better traction and handling
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...light=traction
Link 19 is especially bad. This link is so weak that I can thread a screw driver through both ends and get that gap to open and close slightly by hand. Per HP it twists under acceleration which in turn changes the toe. So under hard acceleration your car is actually flexing and changing it's rear alignment for a split second then snapping back causing a hop, which then releases the tension only to do it again.

Here's a photo of it off HP website. You can see how pathetic it looks compared to the M link
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      06-27-2013, 08:19 AM   #29
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Sigh…”The ultimate driving machine” made not so ultimate via the pen of an accountant who wanted to save $4….sigh…..how sad is this guys?
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      06-27-2013, 02:52 PM   #30
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I fixed this problem upgrading to LSD...
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      06-27-2013, 04:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS
I fixed this problem upgrading to LSD...
I'm not doubting the benefits of an LSD upgrade, but would it help in this situation where the e-diff wasn't even activating? I didn't notice any lights flashing up on my dash to indicate it was coming into play.
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      06-28-2013, 04:02 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkatron View Post
I'm not doubting the benefits of an LSD upgrade, but would it help in this situation where the e-diff wasn't even activating? I didn't notice any lights flashing up on my dash to indicate it was coming into play.
E diff will not light up any light. You can turn off DSC fully but you cant disable E-diff. Though rear rods will help very much also.
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      06-28-2013, 04:50 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RimasRS View Post
E diff will not light up any light. You can turn off DSC fully but you cant disable E-diff. Though rear rods will help very much also.
I see.... thanks for the explanation.

Sure, I can understand rear rods will improve things, but subframe bushings should help even more, correct? I wonder if what I'm experiencing is the same thing as what Dackelone refers to as "the rubberband effect"... If so, then the bushings are going in.
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      06-28-2013, 12:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkatron View Post
I see.... thanks for the explanation.

Sure, I can understand rear rods will improve things, but subframe bushings should help even more, correct? I wonder if what I'm experiencing is the same thing as what Dackelone refers to as "the rubberband effect"... If so, then the bushings are going in.
I agree about bushings. But I saw somewhere on E90 post guy was experiencing rubber rear end under hard acceleration I think you know that feeling when torque takes rear end. So he solved this only when upgraded rear toe arms and rods.

BTW here is the Thread ---> http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615443

I think bushings will do big big improvement and it is a must do but it is not the only one.
And for me biggest improvements was LSD and shox with springs it is complete other car I dont feel that something is wrong it goes where i want to.
But I still dont feel stiffness like E46 M3 so I still need to do bushings, front and rear rods after those I will be more than happy, though those last things will decrease comfort and increase vibration and noise to cabin.
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      06-28-2013, 05:20 PM   #35
sharkatron
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Of course. Thanks!
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      06-28-2013, 05:40 PM   #36
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Just a PSA for those of you already running after-market rear toe-links:
My car has been in the shop twice now for a weird veering/rotating sensation under braking and accelerating and both times the rear toe-arms had come loose. I'd recommend you mark the position of the arms & nuts once tightened so you can look under the car quickly every once in a while to make sure the arms are still where they need to be....
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      06-28-2013, 08:08 PM   #37
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I don't want to start an all out war here, but what are the toe arm options we have available to us, and the differences? There's Rogue Engineering, Megan Racing... anything else?
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