BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      01-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #23
SGM <3
Internet Famous
SGM <3's Avatar
3
Rep
232
Posts

 
Drives: '09 SGM 135i
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kirkland, WA.

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rukuss View Post
Before and after pics
Mine are only down halfway because I don't want mad reverse rake when I still have the stock suspension in the front

Once everything is in and lined up and such I shall post pictures, I promise.
Appreciate 0
      01-04-2013, 08:47 PM   #24
Rukuss
Major
Rukuss's Avatar
United_States
13
Rep
1,331
Posts

 
Drives: 135i
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Portland

iTrader: (-1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SGM <3 View Post
Mine are only down halfway because I don't want mad reverse rake when I still have the stock suspension in the front

Once everything is in and lined up and such I shall post pictures, I promise.
Thank you
Appreciate 0
      01-05-2013, 02:47 AM   #25
iStig
Jason Bourne
iStig's Avatar
United_States
1
Rep
190
Posts

 
Drives: E82 Coupe
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2008 BMW 135i  [5.00]
Send a message via Yahoo to iStig
I am considering a set of ST's but still a little skeptical of the quality concerning the collars being plastic. It's this or KW's and I can't decide.
Appreciate 0
      01-06-2013, 02:09 AM   #26
SGM <3
Internet Famous
SGM <3's Avatar
3
Rep
232
Posts

 
Drives: '09 SGM 135i
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kirkland, WA.

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by iStig View Post
I am considering a set of ST's but still a little skeptical of the quality concerning the collars being plastic. It's this or KW's and I can't decide.
ST's = Relabeled KW V1's just without the anodizing on struts. Aka the ST's will wear a little quicker if you live in a state where they salt the roads for snow.

Mine ride really great, I'd recommend them for a great drop for a great price and great ride.
Appreciate 0
      01-06-2013, 04:16 PM   #27
AKopp
Second Lieutenant
4
Rep
256
Posts

 
Drives: 2009 BMW 135i
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: PA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SGM <3 View Post
Just got my rears done and they were a piece of cake. Just make sure you have all the right tools and take your time while doing everything. Toughest part for me was either getting the trunkliner back in, or screwing in the colossal lugbolt again (the two holes wouldn't line up). But everything fits and is all back together now.
That trunk liner was the worst part of the whole thing. As far as the lug bolt, it was easy with a hi threaded jack and the lift. A hammer also helped slam it through.
__________________
2009 135i - SG/Coral - 19" Alufelgen SF-71 - ST Coilovers - Cobb Stage 2+ - AR Downpipes - Berk Sport Exhaust - Active Autowerke Charge Pipe - AMS FMIC - AFE DCI - LUX V3 Angel Eyes - LCI Blacklines - Active Autowerke Strut Tower Brace - BMW Performance CF Spoiler - Kerscher Carbon Splitter - Scopian CF Diffuser - MusicarNW Level 2
Appreciate 0
      08-01-2013, 04:17 AM   #28
worries
Private
0
Rep
57
Posts

 
Drives: 2013 135i Jet Black
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Honolulu

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2013 BMW 135i  [0.00]
Thanks for the DIY, does anyone happen to know the torque values for everything?
Appreciate 0
      08-08-2013, 10:51 AM   #29
AKopp
Second Lieutenant
4
Rep
256
Posts

 
Drives: 2009 BMW 135i
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: PA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by worries View Post
Thanks for the DIY, does anyone happen to know the torque values for everything?
If you get a hold of a manual, that'll probably tell you. I just go by feel. (Not exactly by the books, but my car stays together and every other one that I've worked on) Except the wheel bolts, they're way to easy to over-tighten.
__________________
2009 135i - SG/Coral - 19" Alufelgen SF-71 - ST Coilovers - Cobb Stage 2+ - AR Downpipes - Berk Sport Exhaust - Active Autowerke Charge Pipe - AMS FMIC - AFE DCI - LUX V3 Angel Eyes - LCI Blacklines - Active Autowerke Strut Tower Brace - BMW Performance CF Spoiler - Kerscher Carbon Splitter - Scopian CF Diffuser - MusicarNW Level 2
Appreciate 0
      08-08-2013, 10:52 AM   #30
AKopp
Second Lieutenant
4
Rep
256
Posts

 
Drives: 2009 BMW 135i
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: PA

iTrader: (0)

Something else I should add, that trunk liner is easy to take in and out if you do it properly. By properly, I mean that you remove the rear seat and the side bolsters. then it slips in and out no issues. In case any one is fighting with it.
__________________
2009 135i - SG/Coral - 19" Alufelgen SF-71 - ST Coilovers - Cobb Stage 2+ - AR Downpipes - Berk Sport Exhaust - Active Autowerke Charge Pipe - AMS FMIC - AFE DCI - LUX V3 Angel Eyes - LCI Blacklines - Active Autowerke Strut Tower Brace - BMW Performance CF Spoiler - Kerscher Carbon Splitter - Scopian CF Diffuser - MusicarNW Level 2
Appreciate 0
      08-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #31
Katkarot
Private
0
Rep
94
Posts

 
Drives: 2010MDX 2012135i
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lotusland

iTrader: (3)

I have my trunk liner out quite a few times and it is currently out at the moment as I am adjusting the shocks.

However I don't remove the seats nor side bolster. I do lower the seats though.

I put the liners back by wedging the tips in first into the side bolster, at about 45 degrees, once that is in, then the rest will fit back.

I will take some pictures later when I put my back in.
Appreciate 0
      08-08-2013, 12:43 PM   #32
dfv2
Lieutenant
dfv2's Avatar
United_States
7
Rep
474
Posts

 
Drives: 2009 CTS-V
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Upstate NY

iTrader: (3)

Few tips - for the fronts you only need to remove the pinch bolt, the three upper tower nuts and sway endlink connection to the strut. You then turn the wheel at full lock away from the side of the car you're on (clockwise turn for drivers side) and the strut assembly can be carefully pulled from the hub assembly. No need to remove the tie rod connection or leveling links. YMMV, but I've done this on a few 1'ers. Just push the caliper down with your foot to get the clearance you need.

For the rears, just pull the liner a bit there is no need to remove the whole thing.

Always work on the front with BOTH wheels at full droop, otherwise the sway will load the end links and be impossible to insert/remove without a struggle.

Enjoy!!
__________________
//ecg//
Appreciate 1
      08-31-2013, 08:41 PM   #33
worries
Private
0
Rep
57
Posts

 
Drives: 2013 135i Jet Black
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Honolulu

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2013 BMW 135i  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfv2 View Post
Few tips - for the fronts you only need to remove the pinch bolt, the three upper tower nuts and sway endlink connection to the strut. You then turn the wheel at full lock away from the side of the car you're on (clockwise turn for drivers side) and the strut assembly can be carefully pulled from the hub assembly. No need to remove the tie rod connection or leveling links. YMMV, but I've done this on a few 1'ers. Just push the caliper down with your foot to get the clearance you need.

For the rears, just pull the liner a bit there is no need to remove the whole thing.

Always work on the front with BOTH wheels at full droop, otherwise the sway will load the end links and be impossible to insert/remove without a struggle.

Enjoy!!
Worked perfectly. I replaced my control arms the first time, so I had to loosen those. The second time I realized I had the grooved washer, inside the top mount, upside-down and did your method and had no problems dropping the strut and out the wheel well with little force.

Also for anyone wondering about torque specs, I found them all in this video by by ECS Tuning: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810625. With that video and this DIY I felt pretty comfortable and had no problems, thanks!

One tip I want to share is that when loosening the knuckle around the front struts, instead of using a chisel, you can simply use a 6-8mm hex socket by pushing it between the gap and rotating it 1/4 with a breaker-bar which will safely spread the knuckle. It's basically the same thing as http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ader/ES198389/.

Last edited by worries; 08-31-2013 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Added tip
Appreciate 1
      03-19-2014, 09:09 PM   #34
135iam
Second Lieutenant
2
Rep
257
Posts

 
Drives: 2010 135i 6mt
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: IL

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the DIY, installing KW's this weekend
Appreciate 0
      03-30-2014, 06:43 PM   #35
AKopp
Second Lieutenant
4
Rep
256
Posts

 
Drives: 2009 BMW 135i
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: PA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 135iam View Post
Thanks for the DIY, installing KW's this weekend
__________________
2009 135i - SG/Coral - 19" Alufelgen SF-71 - ST Coilovers - Cobb Stage 2+ - AR Downpipes - Berk Sport Exhaust - Active Autowerke Charge Pipe - AMS FMIC - AFE DCI - LUX V3 Angel Eyes - LCI Blacklines - Active Autowerke Strut Tower Brace - BMW Performance CF Spoiler - Kerscher Carbon Splitter - Scopian CF Diffuser - MusicarNW Level 2
Appreciate 0
      05-12-2014, 03:03 PM   #36
EOD23
Private
Germany
0
Rep
50
Posts

 
Drives: 09' 135i
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bavaria

iTrader: (0)

Awesome guide, used it today to put a set of E9X ST's on my car. Thanks!
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:14 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST