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      01-05-2013, 11:28 PM   #1
donsaxena
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Review: Ohlins Road and Track with all M3 parts

On my car

-M3 Front Upper and Lower Control Arms
-M3 Rear Guide Rod
-M3 Rear Upper Link
-M3 Subframe Bushings
-Ohlins Road and Track Coilover suspension
-Vorshlag Camber Plates
-Whiteline front and rear sway bars (bought earlier put on during performance upgrades). Didn't know much at the time or would have used M3 parts.

All parts were ordered from Turner and Ahmed Sulfab at Vivid Racing who I deal with exclusively now after having a bad experience at **********s. I still will order from HPF though nice guys.

The car is simply amazing. I put down on e20 350/450 and a bit more with e85/93, however, I generally run e20 off the pump available here in OKC. I notice that the turning ability has greatly improved and the ride quality is not harsh to drive daily. I really like the adjustments of the setup and feel like I can put the power down better. I feel like I have a different car now. It feels much like my old M3 except with a tremendous amount of torque. I do have a 3 clutch LSD from Turner so I am sure it does help.

I feel like I pull harder than I did before. If anyone is looking at this setup and hasn't pulled the trigger I would say it is safe to do so. If anyone has any questions let me know. Prior to suspension one of my friends and I using my P3 car vent clocked a 4.3 0-60 with my LSD. I feel like the car is hooking up a ton better so I will definitely check it out and report back.
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      01-06-2013, 12:34 AM   #2
josh135
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I'm thinking going the same route as you except for the rear guide rod and upper link. I'm going to test the coilovers by themselves and if I'm not happy I'll put some m3 parts on it.
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      01-06-2013, 02:38 AM   #3
jsmonet
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they're good on their own, but i'm still planning on getting, at the very least, the m3 front bits and dinan camber plates
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      01-06-2013, 02:46 AM   #4
donsaxena
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thats a good plan. it was cheaper to get it all at once. the rear stuff from what I understand helps traction.
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      01-13-2013, 06:23 AM   #5
mikal7
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How much was your LSD? Is it a os giken or a turner in house model?
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      01-13-2013, 04:49 PM   #6
fboutlaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donsaxena View Post
On my car

-M3 Front Upper and Lower Control Arms
-M3 Rear Guide Rod
-M3 Rear Upper Link
-M3 Subframe Bushings
-Ohlins Road and Track Coilover suspension
-Vorshlag Camber Plates
-Whiteline front and rear sway bars (bought earlier put on during performance upgrades). Didn't know much at the time or would have used M3 parts.
Running a similar setup and have been contemplating the Ohlins, but I run really wide rubber in front and may have to change spring rates.

Questions: What do you think of Ohlin's spring rates F/R? Have you had the car on a track? Do you feel like you store a lot of energy side to side in turns in the suspension or do you slide the car more easily?
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      01-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #7
pixelblue
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2010 135i  [4.37]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fboutlaw View Post
Running a similar setup and have been contemplating the Ohlins, but I run really wide rubber in front and may have to change spring rates.

Questions: What do you think of Ohlin's spring rates F/R? Have you had the car on a track? Do you feel like you store a lot of energy side to side in turns in the suspension or do you slide the car more easily?
Ohlins supplied springs are a bit on the soft side for track usage imo. they're 345/400. I upgraded my rears to swift 550 and it was a noticeable improvement. planning on upgrading the fronts to swift 500 this year. keep in mind you'll lose some of the 15 point adjustments with stiffer springs. since you have a LSD I would recommend even going to a 600 for the rear but otherwise the extra mechanical grip for me is welcomed since I don't have a LSD
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Last edited by pixelblue; 01-14-2013 at 07:38 AM. Reason: correction to ohlins spring rates
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      01-13-2013, 11:33 PM   #8
donsaxena
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikal7 View Post
How much was your LSD? Is it a os giken or a turner in house model?
It is one through turner I went 3 clutch diffs online does it for turner. I paid 3200. I didnt want to have a shop rebuild a different so I went through turner.
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      01-13-2013, 11:37 PM   #9
donsaxena
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fboutlaw View Post
Running a similar setup and have been contemplating the Ohlins, but I run really wide rubber in front and may have to change spring rates.

Questions: What do you think of Ohlin's spring rates F/R? Have you had the car on a track? Do you feel like you store a lot of energy side to side in turns in the suspension or do you slide the car more easily?
I have just started driving the car and honestly car has been in detail for a few days now. I think I like the spring rates for now I may have a different opinion when I get time to go to the track. I need to take a track session to really be able to give u better feedback
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      10-07-2014, 07:11 PM   #10
dcaron9999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donsaxena View Post
I have just started driving the car and honestly car has been in detail for a few days now. I think I like the spring rates for now I may have a different opinion when I get time to go to the track. I need to take a track session to really be able to give u better feedback
I have a Quaife LSD myself, and some M3 bits. Seriously considering the Ohlins R&T and stiffer Swift Springs. I use the car mainly on the track, but have some rough roads to deal with too. Wouldn't mean reducing the lean I experience in corners, and corner to corner transitions.

Would really appreicate your feedback on how well they behave on the track, and also on the road.
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      10-07-2014, 07:52 PM   #11
fe1rx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Would really appreicate your feedback on how well they behave on the track, and also on the road.
The front spring rate selected by Ohlins (60 N/mm = 342 lb/in) is good based on actual ride quality and theoretical ride frequency. The rears (70 N/mm = 399 lb/in) are soft to accommodate the soft rear subframe. Since you have RSFB you can stiffen up the back substantially. It should be approximately twice the rate of the front to provide an appropriate rear ride frequency (i.e. 120 N/mm = 684 lb/in). This is what I am running so my comments are based on 60 front, 120 rear with M3 RSFB. Incidentally the 1M kit is 60/120.

The Ohlins recommended damper settings provide very good ride quality on the street - definitely better than OE. The rears have conventional elastomeric bump stops that are very progressive. The fronts have integral bump springs that are very stiff. When you run into them, you really know it. Key is don't over-lower the car, particularly at the front. I plan on raising the front of my car a bit because I have had a few good thumps when daily driving. Anyway, you have the ability to raise your car enough that whatever your normal is keeps you off the stops 99% of the time.
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