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      01-03-2011, 08:47 PM   #23
Dackelone
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Originally Posted by new128 View Post
After reading this thread, I had to look at mine.
With the instructions in this thread and looking at the diagram, it makes perfect sense.
BTW, my car is just over 3 weeks old and the top of the red float is about 1/4" below the top (which I assume is where it was when I picked it up - can't believe I need coolant already). This would seem to indicate a low level, but is it really?
Has anyone had this condition and added coolant? How much coolant did you actually add to bring it back to normal? (I realize that being only 1/4" below the top doesn't mean I would would be adding a cooresponding tiny amount.)

I think that is because when the car is new there are some air pockets trapped in the engine. It take some time for the car to "burb" itself.

Also... I suspect that the turbos when shut down hot... use some coolant in the cool down process. I think this is where everyones coolant is dissapearing.

My coolant float was about an inch low... when I topped it back up... it took almost one liter of coolant! I've been checking it at each oil change and all is fine. The coolant level remains the same now. Don't really know why. Perhaps it is like the one or two liters of oil everyones 135i's seem to use when new. Once you get past 15K miles, this tends to stop.

Dackel
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      01-04-2011, 09:38 AM   #24
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I have a 128, so can't be a turbo issue. If you put in a liter when the float was 1" low, I wouldn't think 1/4" low would require adding yet. Will keep an eye on it to see if it goes lower over time.
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      08-29-2011, 05:22 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randall41 View Post
well written, should be titled "Adding coolant for complete idiots"
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      10-29-2012, 04:40 PM   #26
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Cross-reference to a BMW 1M thread regarding an "Engine coolant level too low" warning:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763388

Consider getting a spare bottle of engine coolant. Might come in handy in case of need.
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      10-29-2012, 10:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Ony one of the above has BMW's blessing!
Doesn't Pentosin have BMW's blessing as well?

http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp

For all we know, Pentosin could be the OEM for BMW...?
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      01-05-2013, 12:53 PM   #28
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just an fyi, my indicator on the N55 looks different, not red float in there, just a weird sign

i'll try to take a pic of it tomorrow
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      01-05-2013, 01:19 PM   #29
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I agree with Dack —*just buy the BWM stuff.

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      01-18-2013, 08:23 AM   #30
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I just realized that my cap didn't "click" close the last time I added coolant.......hmmmmm
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      06-15-2013, 05:49 PM   #31
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I know I am resurrecting this, but just found this vid which explains how to check the coolant. What the guy in the vid is saying, is what I'd expect based on the diagram on the coolant reservoir - which is a little different than what has been said in this thread for the most part.

Basically, when cold the coolant dipstick should pop out of the reservoir to indicate things are fully filled. If it is just flush with the top, you could stand to add coolant.



I noticed my radiator fan was going nuts (and it is not even that hot). Checked the level and my float is below the threads right now. Guess I'll add a bit of distilled water, can't get any bmw coolant until Monday.
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      06-16-2013, 04:56 AM   #32
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my "sailboat light" is on, what does that mean?

Quote:
Originally Posted by foghat View Post
I know I am resurrecting this, but just found this vid which explains how to check the coolant. What the guy in the vid is saying, is what I'd expect based on the diagram on the coolant reservoir - which is a little different than what has been said in this thread for the most part.

Basically, when cold the coolant dipstick should pop out of the reservoir to indicate things are fully filled. If it is just flush with the top, you could stand to add coolant.



I noticed my radiator fan was going nuts (and it is not even that hot). Checked the level and my float is below the threads right now. Guess I'll add a bit of distilled water, can't get any bmw coolant until Monday.

Well... I guess we know now not to take our cars into Dan Jacobs BMW! ...just kidding!

That is not the correct way to check the coolant. It says so right on the coolant exp tank/res. You always want to check the coolant level bone cold, not when its hot(like in that video)!! That is why the coolant dip stick popped up like that. Defending the dealer... its hard for them to work on a cold engine, bc everyone just drives to them and say HEY my coolant is low(my "sailboat light" is on, what does that mean?)... so thats probably why they made this video like this. They should have been more clear on the procedures though.


Here is what the coolant level (dip)stick should be when cold....

Name:  coolant res  max min  IMG_2015.jpg
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      06-16-2013, 02:05 PM   #33
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I dunno.

That diagram to me reads: check when cold (which is what the guy in the video said he did - or rather he said never check when hot), the min cold level will be when the float is even with the top of the threads and the max cold level is when the float is popping out an inch or so.

The diagram says nothing about the max level being a 'hot level'. Even the owners manual page you included says (on step 3) the level is correct if it is between the min and max marks... Which to me reads, if it is at the min mark you are barely okay, so add some fluid. the guy in the video says this as well.
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      06-16-2013, 02:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foghat View Post
I dunno.

That diagram to me reads: check when cold (which is what the guy in the video said he did - or rather he said never check when hot), the min cold level will be when the float is even with the top of the threads and the max cold level is when the float is popping out an inch or so.

The diagram says nothing about the max level being a 'hot level'. Even the owners manual page you included says (on step 3) the level is correct if it is between the min and max marks... Which to me reads, if it is at the min mark you are barely okay, so add some fluid. the guy in the video says this as well.

IF you look at the two "dots" on the stick-like float... when its full the stick would never pop up as far as shown in that video. In the video I think its obvious the engine was hot. Or at least fairly hot, not cold. Go check yours and report back. But don't burn your hands.


Btw... its a good idea to put some grease or petroleum jelly on the coolant cap. Its something everyone should do but no one really does. Thats what makes the cap so hard to remove. Also... when you re-install the car keep tightening it until you hear a "CLICK", then its on.
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      06-16-2013, 02:59 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
IF you look at the two "dots" on the stick-like float... when its full the stick would never pop up as far as shown in that video. In the video I think its obvious the engine was hot. Or at least fairly hot, not cold. Go check yours and report back. But don't burn your hands.


Btw... its a good idea to put some grease or petroleum jelly on the coolant cap. Its something everyone should do but no one really does. Thats what makes the cap so hard to remove. Also... when you re-install the car keep tightening it until you hear a "CLICK", then its on.
Okay. I see what you are saying now and agree.

My float was about and 1 to 1.25 inches below the min level. It took about .75L to get it to the max level.

For fun, I kept going to see how much it would take to get the float out all the way (as in the video). It took about another .5L and there still looked to be a decent amount of room left in the over flow tank. I sucked out the extra fluid using my antifreeze strength tester.

Bottom line, I suspect it would not be a big deal if, when cold, you fill so the float is out all the way. Can't imagine .5L in a multi-gallon system would make much of a difference.

My cap does not click - it kinda 'slides' into place and will not turn anymore. The arrow on the cap lines up with the arrow on the reservoir.
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      07-01-2013, 05:52 AM   #36
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I agree... my cap also slides then clicks... it doesn't seem to really want to engage in the threads. Also, when I last checked (over the weekend) the top of the top bubble seemed about 1-1.5inch below the top of the threads. I really should top up - but how come my car doesn't tell me my coolant is low? Is it not low enough to trigger the sensor?
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      01-29-2014, 10:47 PM   #37
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Very handy thread - thanks!!
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      02-10-2014, 03:24 PM   #38
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Thanks for this thread; my low coolant light came on the other day so I did a little web search which led here. About 3 cups of distilled water brought the red float back to where it needed to be and turned the light off. If I run low again, I'll get some proper coolant and do a 50/50 mix.
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      04-22-2014, 11:14 PM   #39
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my dealer told me i should mix the 1 gallon BMW coolant with 1 gallon of water which you get 2 gallons . is this true?
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      04-22-2014, 11:55 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da _Grk_Tuner View Post
my dealer told me i should mix the 1 gallon BMW coolant with 1 gallon of water which you get 2 gallons . is this true?
Yes, you should mix it 50-50 and make sure you use distilled water.
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