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      01-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #1
pwn
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How much timing correction is too much?

I did a data log on my access port for my 2011 135, just stage 1 sport. Just curious how much correction is really bad. I just installed it last night so maybe its learning...not sure.

File here: http://www.qfpost.com/file/d?g=qUuU07LHT

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      01-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #2
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wow dude! Those are off the charts I'm suprised you didn't blow your engine.
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      01-19-2013, 04:36 PM   #3
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Hmmm nobody else?
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      01-19-2013, 05:49 PM   #4
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timming corrections look fine. im no expert, but from what i understand you want to watch for more than 3 on 3 or more cylinders.
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      01-20-2013, 11:31 AM   #5
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Ideally you want zero corrections. You have multiple timing pulls with cylinder 5 having major corrections. Your timing curve is also relatively mild I'd say close to the stock timing curve, so if your experiencing timing pulls on the stock curve that means you have hardware issues. How many miles do you have on the plugs? I'd start there.
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      01-20-2013, 04:49 PM   #6
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Coming up on 20,000 miles, I just bought the car used, CPO from a lease return. No idea if it was modded. I'm going to order plugs and probably an extra coil or two and go from there.

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      01-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #7
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Also are you running the right map for your octane? I see that you're in Cali which I'm sure only has 91 octane. With the N55 maps in Beta I wouldn't run the aggressive map even with octane boosters or E85.
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      01-20-2013, 10:07 PM   #8
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COBB has advised me multiple times that under load, or WOT, you do not want more than 3 cylinders correcting at the same time. So most, if not all, should be zero under load. While just driving around normally there will be corrections done randomly by each individual cylinder that shouldn't concern you as long as the car is driving fine. If you data log a few runs and notice that 4,5, or all 6 at the same time have timing corrections than it is time to send that log off to COBB for some correction, or have a pro-tune done.
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      01-20-2013, 11:04 PM   #9
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I'd recommend flashing over to the Drive map. There's more timing corrections going on than what i like to see.
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      01-21-2013, 10:10 AM   #10
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2500-4000 RPM range could use a few degrees pulled. You've got a noisy number 5 but I've seen several people complain about that and somebody a valve cleaning is recommended but never saw if that fixed anything. I'd see if you can't find a little better gas, little E85 to up octane or maybe even try some octane booster. Luckily the DME on these cars is very good at keeping things in check so even though it's pulling timing it's not going to really hurt anything it's just not the best thing to do.
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      01-21-2013, 11:53 AM   #11
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No octane boosters. Thought that was basic knowledge a LONG time ago. Search for why.
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      01-21-2013, 03:08 PM   #12
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The graph looks fine to me, especially on the second WOT pull. I wouldn't worry so much about it. I have changed my plugs, and did the walnut blasting and cylinder #5 is the only one correcting on mine. Try adding one gallon of E-85 and then top off the tank with 91-93 octane (whichever is available) and after a half tank of that re-log a few pulls and post it up. should clean up some of the other timing issues. If you don't want to run a little E-85, or don't have a station around you for it, try adding a bottle of Torco accelerator to a tank full and that will deff help things out, but we are talking mostly race day precautions on the fuels end here...

Either way I wouldnt worry so much about it.
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      01-21-2013, 05:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue View Post
No octane boosters. Thought that was basic knowledge a LONG time ago. Search for why.
Not all octane boosters are the same. Other than usually wasting your money as the benefits don't quantify the costs it could be enough to clean up the OP's logs.
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      01-21-2013, 07:10 PM   #14
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I've been running the sport map, and I'm in norcal so 91 is all I can get. E85 is out of the question. I'm going to change my plugs, but I'm having trouble figuring out what the exact part number I should be ordering is.

Peter Pan BMW wanted 47$ per plug, East Bay BMW wanted 30$ but they only have one. Most of the threads on this site mention like 4-5 different part numbers, and everyone seems to have problems with everything.
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      01-21-2013, 07:18 PM   #15
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I paid $22.81 at BMW west in houston, part number 12-12-0-037-582 3142M, $38.69 list.
And yes the N55 plug is different from the N54s.
PM me if you want some help with these.
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      01-21-2013, 07:30 PM   #16
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This is what I see on bavauto.com:

12 12 0 037 582 Spark Plug - Bosch ZR5TPP3 $ 22.95 (single contact)

vs

12 12 0 034 087 Spark Plug - Bosch ZGR6STE2 - sold individually - Genuine BMW $ 22.95 (triple contact)

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      01-21-2013, 07:33 PM   #17
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These? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ion/ES2538492/
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      01-21-2013, 07:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwn View Post
This is what I see on bavauto.com:

12 12 0 037 582 Spark Plug - Bosch ZR5TPP3 $ 22.95 (single contact)
Yes the N55 is a single contact vs. the triple contact for the N54.
I bought mine at a BMW dealer because of other posts that I had read on this site.
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      01-21-2013, 10:25 PM   #19
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Found them at autohausaz for $12.16 per plug

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...2010&cid=spark plug@sparkplug&gid=7212@Spark Plug
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      01-21-2013, 10:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brusk View Post
Not all octane boosters are the same. Other than usually wasting your money as the benefits don't quantify the costs it could be enough to clean up the OP's logs.
You got it. Ball out.
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      01-21-2013, 10:57 PM   #21
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Some of the guys are starting to use the ngk laser iridium ILZKBR7A8G plugs in their N54's. Might be worth a look as it's a single electrode style for I believe about 10 bucks each.
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      01-22-2013, 10:09 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brusk View Post
Some of the guys are starting to use the ngk laser iridium ILZKBR7A8G plugs in their N54's. Might be worth a look as it's a single electrode style for I believe about 10 bucks each.
It's not plug and play though with the N54 and I'm sure it would be the same for the N55. There are threads on E90 post where people found the proper gap to run them on the N54, but I haven't seen anything for the N55. I'm sure someone could get them to work on the N55 you'd just have to be willing to experiment a bit with the gap.
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