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      01-22-2013, 02:02 PM   #1
GAZ 345
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illuminating gearknob

thought i would post this up,i know there is another thread allready but more pics/information can't hurt,sorry for the quality of the pics had the camera on wrong settings,okay no stock at the bmw dealer so had to come from germany(two weeks) delivery part number 25112284205 M5 gear knob £84,as you can see the gaiter is not the same as 1M

so first to remove the standard one,the gaiter just hooks under the plastic trim so hold gaiter at edge and pull towards middle of car,once unclipped pull gear knob straight up,this is quite tight so be prepared to knock yourself out,you are now left with this

to remove gaiter there are two straight locating pins holding it onto the gearknob & one hook type clip,put a small screwdriver at edge of clip & gently ease to middle at same time put another screwdriver under plastic and ease up gentle


now on to M5 gear knob snip plug off & slide plastic sleeve off then repeat as per 1M gaiter removal,to fit M5 gear knob to 1M gaiter first drill 1/8 hole between the two pin holes for the wires to go through

now push/ clip the gear knob onto the gaiter & refit plastic sleeve back on to the wires.
remove plastic trim on the console,just pull straight up,then remove foam padding

next step is to tap into loom,on right hand side there is three wires you need to tap into the red/grey & brown wires same colour as gear knob wires,no wires were cut i simply bared the wires to connect gear knob wires,you could also use scotch locks to tap into car wires,this was all done with battery still connected (make sure ign & lights are switched off),i used some extra wire with bullet connectors to join gear knob wires,

re fit foam

place plastic trim back on, connect wires & test to make sure its working,press gear knob onto shifter,refit gaiter back into console & sit back with a smug smile on your face

Last edited by GAZ 345; 01-26-2013 at 08:45 AM.
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      01-22-2013, 02:30 PM   #2
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Great DIY, thanks as i've yet to tackle my install....
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      01-22-2013, 04:01 PM   #3
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Thank you!
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      01-22-2013, 11:27 PM   #4
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Proper stuff .

Im never too good with DIY
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      01-23-2013, 10:55 AM   #5
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Thanks for the DIY!

Looks like removing the gaiter is the toughest part of the job. Can you please provide more details on how to do this?

Thanks!
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      01-23-2013, 11:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdaddylo View Post
Thanks for the DIY!

Looks like removing the gaiter is the toughest part of the job. Can you please provide more details on how to do this?

Thanks!
if you mean remove from the console it's held in with hook clips,just grip gaiter & pull towards gear knob

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      01-23-2013, 11:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAZ 345 View Post
thought i would post this up,i know there is another thread allready but more pics can't hurt,sorry for the quality of the pics had the camera on wrong settings,okay no stock so had to come from germany(two weeks) delivery part number 25112284205 M5 gear knob £84,as you can see gaiter is not same as 1M

so first to remove standard one,this just hooks under plastic so hold gaiter and pull towards middle of car,once unclipped pull gear knob straight up,this is quite tight so be prepared to knock yourself out,you are now left with this

to remove gaiter there are three pins holding it onto the gearknob one is a hook type clip,put a small screwdriver under this & gently ease to middle at same time put another screwdriver under plastic and ease up

now on to M5 gear knob snip plug off & slide plastic sleeve off then repeat as per 1M,to fit M5 to 1M gaiter first drill 1/8 hole between the two pin holes for the wires to go through

now clip gear knob onto gaiter refit plastic sleeve on wire.
next step remove plastic trim on console,pull straight up,then remove foam padding

next step is to tap into loom,on right hand side there is three cables you need to tap into red/grey & brown wires same colour as gear knob wires,i used some extra wire with bullet connectors to join gear knob wires

re fit foam

place plastic trim back on, connect wires & test to make sure its working,press gear knob onto shifter,refit gaiter back into console & sit back with a smug smile on your face
THX good job!. Neatly detailed preservation of the original gaiter-knob connection.

questions:
- wrt the effect of this connection: if you vary the intensity of the dashboard light, does the knob illumination vary its intensity or is it steady?
- is there any way of retrieving the electrical connectors from the supplied connector, without destroying it?
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      01-23-2013, 11:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeghie View Post
THX good job!. Neatly detailed preservation of the original gaiter-knob connection.

questions:
- wrt the effect of this connection: if you vary the intensity of the dashboard light, does the knob illumination vary its intensity or is it steady?
- is there any way of retrieving the electrical connectors from the supplied connector, without destroying it?
yes the gear knob light does vary with dash lights,i had a look at the loom in the console to see if there was a plug as some body said german spec cars have these but not connected,i could not see any plugs,you would still have to cut the plug off to feed the wires through the gaiter anyway

Last edited by GAZ 345; 01-24-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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      01-23-2013, 12:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAZ 345 View Post
I know there is another thread already but more pics can't hurt
Here you go:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695034
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=764209
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      01-30-2013, 04:34 AM   #10
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If my V1 is hardwired into that same wire...problem?

Hey everyone,
I had my V1 hardwired by a stereo shop awhile back. They said they tapped into the wires in the center console. Do you think if I did this mod it would be too much of a power drain on that particular circuit (i.e. popping fuses if I try to have a lighted shift knob running off the same wires that my V1 is pulling energy from)?
I suppose the power ultimately goes to the cigarette lighter (which I don't use). That, one would think, pulls a lot of amperage, right?

Thanks in advance,
Cameron
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      01-30-2013, 06:07 AM   #11
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they will use way less power than cigarette lighter,but your v1 will be wired to the ign live wire,your tapping into illumination live wire for the gear knob

Last edited by GAZ 345; 01-30-2013 at 01:54 PM.
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      02-02-2013, 05:30 PM   #12
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Somewhat off topic but definitely some helpful info! I too love this option and was considering it. I told my service advisor my gear knob was looking a little worm around the emblem and I was thinking about replacing it with the illuminated ///M5 knob. He said," Don't buy a new one, pre-mature wear is under warranty, I'll order you a new stock one on Monday." so believe it or not, our knobs are under warranty.
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      02-02-2013, 05:42 PM   #13
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      02-03-2013, 12:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAZ 345 View Post
they will use way less power than cigarette lighter,but your v1 will be wired to the ign live wire,your tapping into illumination live wire for the gear knob
Thanks!
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      02-12-2013, 09:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAZ 345 View Post
yes the gear knob light does vary with dash lights,i had a look at the loom in the console to see if there was a plug as some body said german spec cars have these but not connected,i could not see any plugs,you would still have to cut the plug off to feed the wires through the gaiter anyway
Now that I have the knob in hand (don't go there!) it shows: the connector can be taken off by removing the individual pins (using a mini screwdriver) The matching opposite male connector is part# 61136925634

Additional reference with picture: Z4 illuminated shift knob with connectors

All needed parts listed on here (first 3 items): Connector parts

using the correct BMW certified color coded wires (fi brand Leoni type FLRY) connected to the nearest dashboard light (using new crimping pins that combine 2 cables on one pin), you could do a neat non-splice retrofit.
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      02-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #16
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      03-04-2013, 07:34 AM   #17
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The original attached pin connectors are a bit wide and I don't want to drill such 'big' holes in the boot's top ring. Thus I'm cutting off the original pins and after wiring back into the boot will reattach with OEM pin contacts using crimp pliers:

61131393703 Terminal pin MQS ELA 0.2-0.5MM² /SN (delivered 2x as part of 25112284205)
61138366269 Terminal pin MQS ELA 0,5-0,75MM² /SN (If you need to connect two wires to 1 pin).

Last edited by eeghie; 02-07-2014 at 05:49 AM.
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      07-17-2013, 07:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeghie View Post
... connected to the nearest dashboard light ...
- If you have the IDrive option, you will find an easy connection point among the wire loom running just besides the gaitor, as described by the OP.
- If you have a stripper car without any dim-able lights in the middle console, that nearest dashboard light connection is the hazard light switch block between the main AC vents in the middle of the dashboard. This hazard light switchblock hosts the MDM, hazard/alarm lights and central locking switches.

For the routing towards the hazard light switch block don't forget using OEM anti-rattle velours tape (61136908716 /15m) and connect to the switch block as follows:

Gearknob Gray/Red -> Switchblock connector Pin 2 (Gray/Red)
Gearknob Brown -> Switchblock connector Pin 3 (Brown/Black)

Both these terminals can host two attached wires to new female terminal pins MQS ELA 61138366260. Use the <=0.5mm2 setting on your crimping tool (fi KNIPEX PreciForce 97 52 34), as the small connector housing needs the two wires to be compactly attached to the female terminal before inserting.

Last edited by eeghie; 02-07-2014 at 05:52 AM.
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      04-29-2014, 01:38 PM   #19
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Had to go back for rewire

Hey, this happened a while ago, but I wanted to share the info. I had my mechanics follow prior instructions in either this or another thread, so they tapped into power just beneath the shift knob. The problem was that the light would stay on for 20-30 min after I shut off the car, draining the battery. I had to go back, and they instead went behind the dash and used an orange/red wire (58G) behind the CIC radio. It now shuts off when I turn off the car, saving my battery from drain. Not sure if I'm making sense, as I jotted down quick notes after they made the switch, and I didn't completely understand the electrical details. I have iDrive if that makes a difference.
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