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      02-12-2013, 02:51 AM   #45
N54CoupeHP
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Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Hi Guys - so many people have asked about this mod. I thought I would throw together a little DIY on my install. The main benefit of deleting the N54's secondary cats is more flow, better faster spool up of the turbos, and a louder more deeper tone of the exhaust note. I really like the way the exhaust note has changed. As far as power goes... its hard to say. I suppose deleting the secondary cats is good for a few HP on the top end. I know when I go WOT... the exhaust now has some BARK to go with all its grunt. The the response time from off boost to on boost - seems better now. Throttle response feels slightly sharper.


N55 mid pipe BMW part number: #18307599743 current price is around ~$333 for the mid pipe thru Tischer BMW or United BMW, or the like. I paid 330 euros over a year ago. So its way cheaper now as you can see. Back then the mid pipes were selling for over $420.


I would also HIGHLY recommend you to buy these parts...

two new front mid pipe gaskets #18307553603 ~$18 each
new copper hex nuts 4@ #11621711954 (my old ones were really rusted) for the front gasket. I am not 100% sure of this part number since my dealer had a hard time figuring out what size copper nuts my car used. Ask your dealer to be sure!

new rear exhaust gasket ring #18117553130 ~$26


I also bought new springs and collar bolts for the rear muffler section, but I did not need to use them. The reason I bought them is I read some posts here that when removing the rear muffler, these bolts and springs tend to break. I did not want to be caught without these parts. They weren't that expensive, so I also bought them.

2@ Spiral spring #18307790610 ~$11 each
2@ Hex screw/bolt with collar #18307561670 ~$3 each


You will need a 13mm deep 1/2 inch or 3/8th's socket/ratchet for the front down pipe gasket nuts.

You will also need a rather large E-socket (reverse torx bit), I think it was an E18 socket. ? You should have a LARGE breaker bar... because you need to remove the X-brace under the rear exhaust/mid pipe area. This was the hardest part of the swap. It really wasn't hard using a lift and using air tools. I think I also used an 18mm 1/2 socket on the X-brace.

I would also have one hand some 3M scotch pad to clean up the old down pipe and rear exhaust bevel. Also having some WD40 or liquid wrench would help as well. ALWAYS use new fasteners. You can see my old DP gaskets... they were only on my car for about a year... and they just fell apart when I removed them.
Hey Dackelone, thanks for the informative DIY, I was looking up the 335i n55 midpipe for my n54 335is but I found three different names under the same part number on realoem. If you have the time could you please tell which part number I need for 335i n55 midpipes? Thanks

-Kev
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      02-12-2013, 11:26 AM   #46
Dackelone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54CoupeHP View Post
Hey Dackelone, thanks for the informative DIY, I was looking up the 335i n55 midpipe for my n54 335is but I found three different names under the same part number on realoem. If you have the time could you please tell which part number I need for 335i n55 midpipes? Thanks

-Kev
I am really not an expert when it comes to 335i's or iS models. I do know that the iS has one of the loudest BMW exhaust notes out there. I think it sounds great.

I suppose you already tried doing the golf T mod, where you pinch off the vacuum lines(on a 335i you have two!) of the rear mufflers. This will keep the rear exhaust mufflers at their loudest out put. Normally they only get that loud at WOT and on cold start.


Looking at a 335i e92 N55 on RealOEM.com... The N55 has a one piece exhaust system from the main cat on back. While on a 335iS it has a two(three) piece system.

Also you should NOTE(!) for the N55 there are two mid pipe versions. One for 6MT and one for the automatic trans. Which one do you have?


e92, 335iS N54T mid pipe exhaust layout... not the mid pipes come in two parts/pipes.
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http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...82&hg=18&fg=10

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http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...83&hg=18&fg=10

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http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...84&hg=18&fg=20


e92, 335i N55 mid pipe exhaust layout... all one part!
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N55 mid pipes... on RealOEM.com
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...17&hg=18&fg=10


N55 mid pipes for e92 coupe...

6MT = #18307613660
6AT = #18307615959

Also the N55 mid pipes look to be around $700. Not cheap.



The more I look at RealOEM.com... the more I think you could just order the 135i N55 mid pipes... cut off the forward sections and use two 60mm clamps (#18307560779) to make up your own custom secondary cat delete!

You want to replace part #1 and #2 in this parts diagram. (don't pay any attention to the lower mid pipe in that diagram. I think that is a diesel mid pipe that some how shows up on the 335i parts ETK.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...82&hg=18&fg=10

Good Luck,
Dackel
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      02-17-2013, 05:34 PM   #47
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Good sound. I also have secondary cats removed on n54 pipes. Sounds like you have a bit of wastegate rattle there.
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      02-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #48
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It's not WG rattle, it's the sound of exhaust vacuum. It happens when the revs decrease suddenly and without resistance i.e. there is no throttle or engine load to sustain them.

WG rattle is a pig and is heard at the front of the car. It sound like a rattle snake with a sharp "chink" sound at the end of it indiacting that the WG pennies have finally sat back down.
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      02-24-2013, 03:33 AM   #49
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i want my car to sound like an N55 powered X5. those cars have the coolest exhaust sound ever when the exhaust valve opens up
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      02-27-2013, 09:28 AM   #50
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Great DIY, will this cause an O2 sensor error? I wouldn't think so since the O2 sensors are upstream of the secondary cats, but just want to make sure. Thanks!
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      02-27-2013, 09:53 AM   #51
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Quote:
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Great DIY, will this cause an O2 sensor error? I wouldn't think so since the O2 sensors are upstream of the secondary cats, but just want to make sure. Thanks!
No, no CEL on a N54. The secondary cats are just THAT, second in line... so there are no O2 sensors for them. Only for the main cats - which are still there an functional.
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      02-27-2013, 12:48 PM   #52
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Cool, thanks. I wonder why the picture on the RealOEM site shows the N55 with the cats still in the pipe. Hmm.
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      02-27-2013, 01:42 PM   #53
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Quote:
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Cool, thanks. I wonder why the picture on the RealOEM site shows the N55 with the cats still in the pipe. Hmm.
You can not really trust the pic/illustrations on RealOEM.com Sometimes they show an older part or car model info. The part numbers are usually correct though.
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      03-09-2013, 10:19 AM   #54
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I'll be installing mine today! I'll be pulling a cozy per say, I'm going to fit the mid pipe with the res on first and see how it sounds with the BMWPE. if I decide its to quiet, off with the res it is! ill take some pics and do 3 exhaust clips (the third being if i do a full cozy install).
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      03-09-2013, 11:00 AM   #55
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this is a good mod for the 1M,it is a little bit louder,not as much as i hoped for but does sound better,new copper hex nuts 4@ #11621711954 these are the correct ones these replaced original number,one thing i did notice with the n55 pipe is it's not stainless steel like 1M original pipe
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      03-24-2013, 12:51 AM   #56
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Is the RealOEM part diagrams wrong for the n55 midpipes? In all of the diagrams it looks like it has secondary cats whereas the entire point of them is to delete the cats?
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      03-24-2013, 06:02 AM   #57
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Yup, RealOEM has the wrong diagram but the right part number.
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      04-04-2013, 07:42 AM   #58
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Excuse the ignorance, when doing this mod, would you need to do software or can you run it on OEM without getting any errors?
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      04-04-2013, 10:07 AM   #59
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No errors, no O2 sensors in the mid pipes. Would benefit from a tune to get much power from it otherwise it's probably more for noise when you're stock.
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      04-04-2013, 11:36 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meng4n1to View Post
Excuse the ignorance, when doing this mod, would you need to do software or can you run it on OEM without getting any errors?
You run it stock without any errors.

When you go WOT it does get a bit louder - in a good way.
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      04-04-2013, 12:13 PM   #61
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Just did mine with the Res delete, AR ***less DPs, and OEM axle muffler. There is fairly heavy rasp in lower RPMs but I am surprised that the drone isn't as bad as I thought while cruising. Sounds insane when running it hard, love it :-)
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      04-04-2013, 12:15 PM   #62
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Just did mine with the Res delete, AR ***less DPs, and OEM axle muffler. There is fairly heavy rasp in lower RPMs but I am surprised that the drone isn't as bad as I thought while cruising. Sounds insane when running it hard, love it :-)
Give the "rasp" some break-in miles. Normally once you have put on about 2K miles(you don't have to take it easy, just pour on the miles to carbon up the exhaust), the exhaust note will change for the better.
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      04-04-2013, 02:06 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Give the "rasp" some break-in miles. Normally once you have put on about 2K miles(you don't have to take it easy, just pour on the miles to carbon up the exhaust), the exhaust note will change for the better.
Hoping so cause that's really my only complaint. Now to help with the WG rattle that is now more noticeable :-/
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      04-05-2013, 04:01 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozy View Post
No errors, no O2 sensors in the mid pipes. Would benefit from a tune to get much power from it otherwise it's probably more for noise when you're stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
You run it stock without any errors.

When you go WOT it does get a bit louder - in a good way.
Thanks guys, really happy to hear this as the car is still under motorplan for the next while so trying to keep things as OEM as possible until then.
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      04-20-2013, 04:45 AM   #65
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Does anyone know what the torque should be for the down pipe and rear section bolts - when replacing the mid pipe. ?
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      04-21-2013, 08:24 AM   #66
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Hi folks, I'm looking to do this myself soon. Think it'll be my next mod. Only problem I have is removing the downpipe bolts, as mine are rusted on pretty good. I tried removing them a few weeks ago and my socket just turned on the bolt. I've since got some special bolt removal sockets, but I'm not sure if they'll fit in the tight space.

Any other tips? I already tried soaking it in penetrating oil and WD40.
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