|02-23-2013, 05:03 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jan 2011
N55 Downpipe installed
Having gone through the install finally, figured I 'd put up some more info to help anyone that may look to do this by themselves, alone, in an apartment, on jackstands, and with only handtools.
First of all, here are the steps I took to remove / install (reference to adrock)
remove engine bay covers, the cabin filter+panel (8mm)
unplug o2 sensors near passenger side of engine bay
Remove Ground Covers (8mm Socket)
Loosen driver side steering rack bolt, remove passenger side (E12 Torx + 16mm (5/8in))
Remove heat shield plate (T25 Torx)
Unscrew Exhaust bolts(dp to midpipe) (13mm Socket+extension+wd40)
Unscrew Exhaust bolts again(midpipe to axle back) (15mm + 12mm(if stock))
Unscrew Exhaust brace (E12 Torx)
Remove Tranny Mount Bracket from DP and Transmission(E18 Torx or 14mm(9/16) if you're desperate like me)
Unclamp VClamp (13mm Socket)
Remove O2 sensors (7/8 in Wrench)
Attach tranny mount plate to new DP loosely
Install O2 Sensors
Plug in O2 sensors in engine bay, reinstall all covers, filters
Line up tranny mount points (put screws in, but don't' tighten)
Install and tighten VClamp
Tighten Transmission mount bracket Bolts (e18 / 14mm Socket)
Bolt Up exhaust loosely
Install Exhaust brace
Tighten all exhaust parts
Install Heat plate
Install Steering rack bolts
Install Ground Covers
Here is the O2 sensor that took me a while to find due to my lack of knowledge
Hopefully this saves someone else from spending too much time tracing those damn wires
I found it much easier to deal with the o2 sensors once the dp is out of the car, much better leverage and such. Also not sure if this is true for every car, but on the dp, the o2 sensor with the heattape around it is the one closer to the turbo, and up top in the engine bay the black wire goes closer to the front of the car, and the grey one is closer to the windshield
When installing the vclamps to turbo/dp, I found it easier to first have the clamp not installed, but have it on the pipe or turbo(not where the two meet) , then push the end of the dp against the turbo, and feel around to make sure the two are seated perfectly. After that I pulled the clamp back to place and made sure it would compress properly.
If you feel like it, removing the wheels gives you alot more room to move around and such. the passenger side also exposes the dp so you can see if it lines up or not.
All in all the install was pretty straightforward, just alot of stuff to move around before actually getting to the dp.
The lack of room wasn't too much of a problem, and non of the bolts were extremely seized up for me. I've' only used a swivel socket once for the transmission mount bracket, and the rest were all accessible with normal tools.
This may be redundant info for some people, but hope it helps those who're thinking of doing more diy!
|02-05-2014, 01:27 AM||#7|
Drives: 2012 135i
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Hongcouver Canada
I'm gonna add to this as I just did it myself and didn't see a couple of things. Might as well make it a bit easier for anyone DIY'ing it at home! Took me just a touch over 3hrs.
These are the bloody pain to get at plugs for the o2 sensors. You will have to remove quite a bit on the top side to get at them. I had to take the brace off and most of the engine cover. I marked the front on both connecters with tape so I didn't plug them in backwards. Then I noticed one was black and one was grey haha.
This is the steering rack bolt from the bottom that needs be loosened on the drivers side and taken OUT on the passenger side.
Thats the heat shield over top of the steering rack that needs be removed, it has THREE torx bolts.
Heres a side by side of the stock DP with o2 sensors still in it and the BMS unit. you'll need to put the sensors on before the trans mount brackets. (I did it backwards and had to re do)
The v band is a pain.. I left it on the turbo side and managed to get it over the DP with both hands jammed in there.
I totally suggest taking the passenger side wheel off for better access...
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