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      02-01-2013, 09:53 AM   #45
andrey_gta
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Originally Posted by M130ISWP View Post
Mine never had the flat spot until recently
I dont feel it with the evolve tune either. Unless I pay ver close attention, its quick.
I replied because he has a 125i and post tune he may notice new things.

I hope you find what the issue is for you, even ifnu have to use stock software.
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      03-01-2013, 06:45 AM   #46
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An update:

I took the car back to the dealership on Monday, for the second time to fix the fault with the aircon, because I went to a few Aircon specialists and they all said that "the electrostat is faulty and only BMW can replace it"

With both visits, the dealership did a diagnostics, it only detected the Cats missing and the rain/heater sensor by the rear view mirror. This sensor is what caused the aircon to not function properly. Replaced the sensor and the aircon is functioning properly
--------------------------------
The aircon was always set on 18C and auto fan speed. The problem that the aircon had was that it decided itself when to come on and switch off. Most of the time it didn’t switch on immediately when the cars ignition was switched on….. It wouldn’t switch off once the cabin got to the required temperature, it either turned off too early or it stayed on for too long, sometimes only going off when the ignition was turned off.
Sometimes I had to switch the aircon off manually because it got ice cold in the cabin. The one specialist put his temperature gauge by one of the dashboard vents, it read -3C and the condenser was icing up.

---------------------------------

The flat spot is still occurring No one can figure it out
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      03-01-2013, 07:08 AM   #47
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Did you ever figure out the flat spot problem ???
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      03-01-2013, 07:20 AM   #48
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No. We've tried everything except opening up the engine and stripping the vanos.

All the sensors are fine
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      03-01-2013, 07:42 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M130ISWP View Post
No. We've tried everything except opening up the engine and stripping the vanos.

All the sensors are fine

Speaking of Vanos... Out of curiosity... are you running a very thick engine oil? I ask this bc I remember a Porsche tech friend of mine told me of this 911 they had to buy back. It kept throwing an engine check light and had reduced power. They had replaced all the sensors and vanous stuff... in the end... PCNA bought the car back. Then the tech did an oil change before sending the car to Porsche. THAT fixed the car. Seems the owner was using some really thick oil... and that was preventing the solenoid from changing the camshaft timing! It might be worth a try. Porsche pecs something like 5w30 I think for their 911 Turbo's. Using a thicker oil actually caused the CEL to throw and reduce the engine power.
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      03-01-2013, 07:52 AM   #50
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We did that. I replaced the oil with Shell’s thinest oil, the Helix Ultra.

Thanks anyway
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      03-25-2013, 08:00 AM   #51
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It didn't do this before you drilled your cats out, now it does. Three places have told you the cat delete is causing the issue, and you haven't even humored them? You've tried everything else. Put the catalytic converters back in the car man. It's worth a try.
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      03-25-2013, 08:35 AM   #52
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Only the BMW dealership has told me its related to the cats. The other places know its not the cats.

So many BMW's worldwide have been decat'ed and dont have this problem, which means the flat spot isn't caused by the decat. If it was, then the flat spot would happen anywhere in the rev range instead of only between 2500rpm and 3500rpm.

Some of the tuners reckon its electronic related because its only in that same small rev range all the time for the flat spot. They said if it was mechanical then the flat spot would happen anywhere in the rev range.
............
BMW dealerships diagnostics only works with oem configurations on the car. Their machine will obviously detect it being the cats because its not oem factory spec anymore
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      03-27-2013, 06:37 PM   #53
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It is so frustrating! Mine is still suffering for the pinging issue as well as the low rev stumble during larger throttle opening. There is also usually a noticeable but brief dip in power at around 3000 rpm. Before it used to be also from around 3500 - 4500 rpm. Now I don't know if the new DISA flaps or me cleaning both Vanos solenoids has changed this.

My last DIY a week or so ago was a simple annual oil and filter change (10k km since the last service), but I also decided to replace both engine temperature sensors which involved draining the coolant once it was cool enough of course. So changed the oil and filter first and let the car stand, then drained the coolant. For better access I removed the air box and decided to clean the MAF with some Liqui Moly MAF cleaner - allowed to dry and then reinstalled. New sensors in and added coolant with the bleed screw open. Then ran the coolant purge procedure twice to make sure any and all air was out of the system.

Went for a drive afterwards and all was as before, so no difference. My reasoning for replacing the temperature sensors was that back when the specialist tuner had my car (the same crowd that OP went to that identified the throttle module) they noticed that my car's engine was running colder than it should. At first they suspected the thermostat and then after no return calls and having to physically go to them to get more info, they claimed that they suspected it was more a case of a faulty coolant temperature sensor since the readings they saw were erratic. Of course this was the information that the agents had at the time and simply did nothing about it. Sadly the new sensors have not changed anything so it can only be the thermostat that is not working properly and over-cooling the engine. Hidden menu shows engine temperatures around 79 and 84 degrees Celsius which I gather is roughly 10 - 20 degrees cooler than it should be. So in affect the engine could very well be slightly over-fuelling thinking that the engine is still in the warm up phase.

As for the pinging, my last visit to the agents and taking a workshop foreman to drive my car he suspects that it could be a cam timing issue and the only way to check is to open the engine - valve cover needs to come off and then they can check. Problem is, I am just not willing to foot the bill for this when clearly this should have been done in the first place when the car was indeed still under motorplan! I also cannot believe that an engine with such low mileage (problems started at around 62k km and is now on 69k km) should have problems like this and need this kind of invasive surgery!

My car is completely stock and running the same oil that the agents use which is LL01 5W30 - and my reasoning for annual oil changes is that I can ensure that the engine has fresh oil each year and not only every two years since I don't do very high mileage. Idea being to prevent sludge - from looking in through the oil cap the upper engine seems clean but the oil cap has the sludgy look which seems to be normal (or at least, was like this when I bought the car almost 3 years ago). The old oil and remaining oil in the filter housing seemed pretty clean still, so I reckon with frequent oil service intervals this should help keep clean and possible clean out any early sludge wanting to build up.

But at this stage, I have properly lost interest in the car... I want an E46 M3 now!
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      04-17-2013, 07:07 PM   #54
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For the record, I also experienced this flat spot, it was more 3.5k-4k rpm. I changed the cam shaft angle sensor, and the intake VANOS solenoid valve (although both had logged codes at that point. but previously they didn't log any codes but i still felt the issue)

and now it revs much more freely. I also have the BMS powerbox "tune", and that made it worse when it was having VANOS issues. but now its better.

Talked to my mechanic and he said vanos solenoids are common issues, because over time the oil gunks them up (also the space between oil changes).

I'd suggest giving that a go, there's some guides of people taking it out and cleaning it themselves, but just get new ones.
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      04-18-2013, 09:07 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quasio View Post
For the record, I also experienced this flat spot, it was more 3.5k-4k rpm. I changed the cam shaft angle sensor, and the intake VANOS solenoid valve (although both had logged codes at that point. but previously they didn't log any codes but i still felt the issue)

and now it revs much more freely. I also have the BMS powerbox "tune", and that made it worse when it was having VANOS issues. but now its better.

Talked to my mechanic and he said vanos solenoids are common issues, because over time the oil gunks them up (also the space between oil changes).

I'd suggest giving that a go, there's some guides of people taking it out and cleaning it themselves, but just get new ones.
Yep, these engines are quite sensitive to oil condition and ultimately oil pressure going to the Vanos from the solenoids. Even a deformed or twisted oil filter can cause issues apparently. So cleaning the solenoids from time to time is not a bad plan especially if the oil is subjected to the normal lengthy service intervals, recipe for sludge build up as far as I am concerned!

Now, I changed the oil some weeks back and while the problems are still present, the engine feels a bit better to a degree. I did clean the Vanos solenoids last year but it made no difference at the time. But, another posted on the DIY thread mentioned that to proper clean them you actually need to feed 5V DC (or so) to open the solenoid so that proper cleaning can be done - must still do this at some point, and also just not sure about the polarity when doing this.

Something I am thinking of having tested now is the fuel pressure and possibly the operation of the injectors to make sure that there is not an issue there.

Then there is the timing issue which could very well be the cause of my pinging problems.
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      04-18-2013, 09:54 AM   #56
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I wonder IF our cars have a Vanos (oil)filter like shown on this e46 M3... Btw... I would never recommend to use a flat blade screw driver like the guy in the video does. Not for the new o-ring!


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      04-18-2013, 10:21 AM   #57
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I think they rely on the oil filter for this - this is what mine looked like after cleaning. The exhaust Vanos solenoid was quite a bit dirtier than the intake side.



Cleaned them with unleaded petrol and let them stand so that any sludge inside had chance to break down and cleaned out. Then after leaving them to dry I dipped them in some fresh oil for a few minutes before putting them back in.

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