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      02-20-2013, 05:47 PM   #1
R3ctivision
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First time tracking the 135...

I'm going to Laguna Seca in March with my 135 that I picked up past summer. It's bone stock right now with ~70k on the clock, 225 Hankooks up front and 245 rear. I've done LS 4 days now but in a stock E46 M3 (except for pads) and my old E36 328 (with pads).

What should I know about the 135 to track it, in particular at Laguna? Anything to watch out for (limp mode, oil temps, engine temp, oil consumption, severe understeer, brake fade...)? I'm thinking of getting some track pads along with an oil change, transmission/differential fluid change, and brake fluid flush.

I saw a sticky thread about 135 caliper damage from overheating. Unfortunately, I know LS to be very hard on brakes and I've been in the gravel twice from brake fade down at Turn 2 and at the corkscrew, so it makes me nervous.

Also -- does anyone have any suggestions for setting up a mic with an original GoPro Hero, if it's even possible? I hate the wind noise. Or perhaps I should figure out how to mount my DSLR inside with an external mic wired up somewhere under the glove box?
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      02-21-2013, 12:00 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
I'm going to Laguna Seca in March with my 135 that I picked up past summer. It's bone stock right now with ~70k on the clock, 225 Hankooks up front and 245 rear. I've done LS 4 days now but in a stock E46 M3 (except for pads) and my old E36 328 (with pads).

What should I know about the 135 to track it, in particular at Laguna? Anything to watch out for (limp mode, oil temps, engine temp, oil consumption, severe understeer, brake fade...)? I'm thinking of getting some track pads along with an oil change, transmission/differential fluid change, and brake fluid flush.

I saw a sticky thread about 135 caliper damage from overheating. Unfortunately, I know LS to be very hard on brakes and I've been in the gravel twice from brake fade down at Turn 2 and at the corkscrew, so it makes me nervous.

Also -- does anyone have any suggestions for setting up a mic with an original GoPro Hero, if it's even possible? I hate the wind noise. Or perhaps I should figure out how to mount my DSLR inside with an external mic wired up somewhere under the glove box?
Laguna is brutal on brakes, so I'd find a way to keep those suckers cool. Track pads and racing fluid are almost a must if you keep up a lot of pace. Luckily Laguna doesn't get very hot so I don't suspect you'll have problems with overheating. Expect understeer especially in turn 2,3, and 11. I'm chicken going into the corkscrew so I usually start braking while still going uphill rather than waiting to crest that little hill and it makes the turn a lot less daunting.

You might consider keeping the DTC in the sport position rather than turning it off all the way until you get a feel for how the car responds on that track.

I think you can get an external mic for the go pro's and run it from the go pro through the trunk and tape it to the bumper right above the exhaust. That's what I do, it's better than just listening to wind.
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      02-21-2013, 06:33 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
I saw a sticky thread about 135 caliper damage from overheating. Unfortunately, I know LS to be very hard on brakes and I've been in the gravel twice from brake fade down at Turn 2 and at the corkscrew, so it makes me nervous.
Stock pads will fade, and stock fluid will overheat. So change the fluid and either coast before hard braking zones or use better pads. If you change the pads, be sure to use the stock backing plates or titanium backing plates.
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      02-22-2013, 02:20 PM   #4
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Thanks guys for the feedback. Any recommended way to improve brake cooling? What about rear pads overheating from the E-"LSD"?
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      02-23-2013, 02:18 AM   #5
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Since we have the same engine, you need to check-out this thread.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=412156

I read all 41 pages before my first track day last week (2/15). I had fun, but it would have been a lot more fun if I didn't blow my engine due to meth kit failure. I'm still waiting on the replacement motor to arrive.
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      02-28-2013, 02:47 PM   #6
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Laguna Seca

Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
I'm going to Laguna Seca in March with my 135 that I picked up past summer. It's bone stock right now with ~70k on the clock, 225 Hankooks up front and 245 rear. I've done LS 4 days now but in a stock E46 M3 (except for pads) and my old E36 328 (with pads).

What should I know about the 135 to track it, in particular at Laguna? Anything to watch out for (limp mode, oil temps, engine temp, oil consumption, severe understeer, brake fade...)? I'm thinking of getting some track pads along with an oil change, transmission/differential fluid change, and brake fluid flush.

I saw a sticky thread about 135 caliper damage from overheating. Unfortunately, I know LS to be very hard on brakes and I've been in the gravel twice from brake fade down at Turn 2 and at the corkscrew, so it makes me nervous.

Also -- does anyone have any suggestions for setting up a mic with an original GoPro Hero, if it's even possible? I hate the wind noise. Or perhaps I should figure out how to mount my DSLR inside with an external mic wired up somewhere under the glove box?
Three years ago I drove my 135i hard at the LS I burned and melted all my calipers components seals and dust boots. I replaced them with these components (135i Brembo caliper components) from Racingbrake ever since then, I have been driving my car hard and I visited the race track many times and my brake still good no burned rubber or what so ever. Here is their website if you need calipers components in the future. Good luck !http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7030.htm
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      03-01-2013, 02:28 AM   #7
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Who is running the event in March at Laguna Seca?

Not sure how fast you are. If you are in the advanced group, the stock brakes, even with upgraded pads, will be marginal at best at a track like Laguna Seca. This track is very hard on brakes.

If you are not looking to swap pads before and after the event, your best bet would be a set of Stoptech Street Performance pads, stainless steel lines and high temp brake fluid(Motul 600, STR 600 or similar). If you are willing to switch pads, Hawk DTC-70 front and rear will give you more bit and more track time before fading.

Last edited by HP Autosport; 03-01-2013 at 02:56 AM.
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      03-01-2013, 02:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
I'm going to Laguna Seca in March with my 135 that I picked up past summer. It's bone stock right now with ~70k on the clock, 225 Hankooks up front and 245 rear. I've done LS 4 days now but in a stock E46 M3 (except for pads) and my old E36 328 (with pads).

What should I know about the 135 to track it, in particular at Laguna? Anything to watch out for (limp mode, oil temps, engine temp, oil consumption, severe understeer, brake fade...)? I'm thinking of getting some track pads along with an oil change, transmission/differential fluid change, and brake fluid flush.

I saw a sticky thread about 135 caliper damage from overheating. Unfortunately, I know LS to be very hard on brakes and I've been in the gravel twice from brake fade down at Turn 2 and at the corkscrew, so it makes me nervous.

Also -- does anyone have any suggestions for setting up a mic with an original GoPro Hero, if it's even possible? I hate the wind noise. Or perhaps I should figure out how to mount my DSLR inside with an external mic wired up somewhere under the glove box?
Which event at Laguna? I'll be there on 3/26 with a HOD partner event and 3/30 with CFRA.
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      03-08-2013, 02:13 PM   #9
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I'm with CFRA as well! I'll have to look for you there. I'll probably have the only Montego 135i :P
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      03-08-2013, 02:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MY1351 View Post
Three years ago I drove my 135i hard at the LS I burned and melted all my calipers components seals and dust boots. I replaced them with these components (135i Brembo caliper components) from Racingbrake ever since then, I have been driving my car hard and I visited the race track many times and my brake still good no burned rubber or what so ever. Here is their website if you need calipers components in the future. Good luck !http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7030.htm
Thanks for the advice. Were the calipers themselves toast, or did you just need to rebuild seals and such?

The only time I brought my previous car, an E36 328i, to LS, I overheated the brakes so badly that the front calipers BENT the brake pads by a 20 degree angle. I wore through the remainder of the pad material and into the backplate without knowing it. I'm lucky nothing happened besides brake fade, LOL. That was with high temp fluid and track pads too.
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      03-08-2013, 02:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakyDeeky View Post
Since we have the same engine, you need to check-out this thread.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=412156

I read all 41 pages before my first track day last week (2/15). I had fun, but it would have been a lot more fun if I didn't blow my engine due to meth kit failure. I'm still waiting on the replacement motor to arrive.
Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look!
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      03-08-2013, 02:19 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
Who is running the event in March at Laguna Seca?

Not sure how fast you are. If you are in the advanced group, the stock brakes, even with upgraded pads, will be marginal at best at a track like Laguna Seca. This track is very hard on brakes.

If you are not looking to swap pads before and after the event, your best bet would be a set of Stoptech Street Performance pads, stainless steel lines and high temp brake fluid(Motul 600, STR 600 or similar). If you are willing to switch pads, Hawk DTC-70 front and rear will give you more bit and more track time before fading.
CFRA is doing it on 3/30. I am typically in the A group but lose a lot of pace (~4-5 seconds a lap) after about 2-3 laps due to brake fade, at least when I went using the E46 M3 or E36 328, with track pads. Unfortunately, brake fade settles in right around when I've settled into a consistent groove.

This time since I'm taking a different car for the first time, I'm going in the B group so I don't feel as pushed for pace and I can manage brakes better while I learn how the car handles.

Thanks for the pad advice -- Do the Hawks squeal on the street? I normally wouldn't mind swapping pads but at my apartment in LA I have no garage where I can do it myself, so I'll have to pay a shop to prep my car.
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      03-11-2013, 08:13 AM   #13
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Just swap your pads at the event...that's what I normally do. Get there and give myself 30 mins to swap pads at all 4 corners...
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      03-11-2013, 09:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
CFRA is doing it on 3/30. I am typically in the A group but lose a lot of pace (~4-5 seconds a lap) after about 2-3 laps due to brake fade, at least when I went using the E46 M3 or E36 328, with track pads. Unfortunately, brake fade settles in right around when I've settled into a consistent groove.

This time since I'm taking a different car for the first time, I'm going in the B group so I don't feel as pushed for pace and I can manage brakes better while I learn how the car handles.

Thanks for the pad advice -- Do the Hawks squeal on the street? I normally wouldn't mind swapping pads but at my apartment in LA I have no garage where I can do it myself, so I'll have to pay a shop to prep my car.
All race pads do, that is the trade off for race pads vs. OE/street pads.
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      03-14-2013, 10:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
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All race pads do, that is the trade off for race pads vs. OE/street pads.
Hell, my OE pads squeal at every stop like a 2-year-old on a sugar high.
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