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      08-09-2011, 03:29 PM   #1
mpatrone
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Track Overheating: Coolant and oil suggestions?

I'm breaking my 135i's track cherry and bringing it to VIR. I recently did a mid maintenance schedule oil change with Mobil 1 0W-40. I plan on bleeding the brakes with ATE Type 200 fluid the week before I go. My questions are these:

1) In order to avoid "limp mode" or overheating, does the 0W-40 work better than BMW/Castrol 5W-30? I know the higher viscosity is better fit to resist high temps; however, I remember reading that for keeping oil cool, flow is most important. Obviously the 5W-30 will have more flow at these high temps.

2) Coolant: is a flush necessary before I go? Its a 2009... If so, should I use the standard 50/50 BMW coolant mix or are there better options for track driving?

I bought the car CPO and upgraded maintenance, so I have the car covered for 6 years on both warranty/maintenance. Just want people to keep that in mind so I can avoid any dealer annoyances (i.e. anything I put in the car that BMW service could notice and void warranty)
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      08-09-2011, 03:42 PM   #2
Dackelone
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Oil is more than just oil. What I mean is... I use to use Mobil-1's 0w40 LL-1 (european blend) oil in my US spec 135i over here in Germany. I switched to the German made Castrol RS Edge 0w40 (LL-4 bc I use German low sulfur fuels) and notice the oil temps run a lot cooler with the German Castrol. Two needle widths cooler. Some have also posted here that they noticed teh same with the 5w30 Castol oil sold thru US dealers. You might just stick with the Castrol oil sold thru the US dealers. I think there is a reason why BMW says to use Castrol oil.

As for engine coolant... you can run a test for the freezing and boiling point. Sounds too early to change it though. You can also test the coolant's acidity - to see IF you need to change it.

IF you are really worried about LIMP MODE... maybe pony up the dough for a BMW Performance Power Kit (PPK)- that has the extra cooling raditor (coolant) and a HD radiator cooling fan, new spark plugs and a ECU reflash tune for 322 Hp. Its teh hardware that might be the most helpfull. Or you can buy the 335is radiator fan (from the PPK) to increase your car's cooling ability.

Depending on who is running your HPDE changing teh brake fluid in teh same month before teh event should be fine. You might even just buy a Motive pressure bleeder and do it yourself. bc after each event your brake fluid will most likely be boiled and have air in the system.

I would change the oil before each driving event as well.


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      08-09-2011, 04:23 PM   #3
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Your brake fluid and coolant should not be older than this calendar year.

Otherwise, don't worry. My water temp and oil temp were no problem at all in 100F temperatures for 25 minute runs. I have a secondary oil cooler, but three other 135is that don't have extra oil coolers also had no problems in the same conditions.

If you look at the thread at e90post, it seems to be cars with AT that are having cooling problems. If you want to make extra sure, change your coolant to 100% water plus Water Wetter additive.

I don't know anything about oil, but I just use the stock BMW oil and as I said I don't have any problems.
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      03-21-2013, 08:47 PM   #4
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Bringing this thread up from the dead.

I have Limp mode on the track and want to upgrade my oil cooling capabilities. I don't plan to tune it (staying 300hp stock). But I want to last 30 minutes sessions, like 6 or 7 of these a day with 30 minutes cool down gaps.

How much is the 135i PPK? How much is the 335i PPK cooling fan? What other alternatives are out there? Thanks!
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      03-21-2013, 09:56 PM   #5
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I've had this issue - but if I run with the heat on (84 degrees) and just have it blow out the windows, I have not had the problem happen since.
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      03-21-2013, 11:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiscottiGelato View Post
Bringing this thread up from the dead.

I have Limp mode on the track and want to upgrade my oil cooling capabilities. I don't plan to tune it (staying 300hp stock). But I want to last 30 minutes sessions, like 6 or 7 of these a day with 30 minutes cool down gaps.

How much is the 135i PPK? How much is the 335i PPK cooling fan? What other alternatives are out there? Thanks!
You can try using mostly distilled water with minimum coolant along with a coolant system addition. Oil should be 0W40 or similar for minimum friction.

Cooling fan will help in low vehicle speeds.
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      03-22-2013, 05:17 AM   #7
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Haha. I see what I wrote in 2011. I've had plenty of limp modes since then. In the big thread about limp mode at e90post forum, they recommend mixing 70% water with 30% coolant. Coolant apparently raises the boiling point, so they say 30% mix is the best compromise.
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      03-22-2013, 06:21 AM   #8
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Red Line Water Wetter.
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      03-22-2013, 07:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
Haha. I see what I wrote in 2011. I've had plenty of limp modes since then. In the big thread about limp mode at e90post forum, they recommend mixing 70% water with 30% coolant. Coolant apparently raises the boiling point, so they say 30% mix is the best compromise.
Coolant just raises the boiling point, but the higher the water content the better the cooling.

In my racecar I run pure distilled water with just a bottle of Redline Water Wetter for corrosion protection and better cooling.

I actually add a bottle of Water Wetter to all my cars cooling systems.
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      03-26-2013, 06:28 PM   #10
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when people say coolant, do you mean anti-freeze?

the water wetter article says even A/C in the summer can blow freezing air to the cooling system causing water wetter to expand and kill my cooling system? that sounds like a track only car solution then... not even okay for a summer/winter coolant mix change.
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      03-27-2013, 05:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiscottiGelato View Post
when people say coolant, do you mean anti-freeze?

the water wetter article says even A/C in the summer can blow freezing air to the cooling system causing water wetter to expand and kill my cooling system? that sounds like a track only car solution then... not even okay for a summer/winter coolant mix change.
So as I read the article, you should use at least 20% coolant (also called antifreeze).
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      03-27-2013, 11:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
So as I read the article, you should use at least 20% coolant (also called antifreeze).
Less the better. We have ran 10% without issues. That is currently what is in the 1M.
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      09-27-2013, 09:14 AM   #13
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Bumping this up, does anyone know the capacity of our cooling system?
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      09-27-2013, 11:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeo View Post
I've had this issue - but if I run with the heat on (84 degrees) and just have it blow out the windows, I have not had the problem happen since.
This!!!

Thanks Joeo!

Ive used your simple method, and it works! Just close the center vents, and point your side vents towards the outside ...
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      09-28-2013, 12:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
This!!!

Thanks Joeo!

Ive used your simple method, and it works! Just close the center vents, and point your side vents towards the outside ...
Will try this at tomorrow's HPDE. It's supposed to hit 90*F tomorrow.
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      09-28-2013, 01:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post

IF you are really worried about LIMP MODE... maybe pony up the dough for a BMW Performance Power Kit (PPK)- that has the extra cooling raditor (coolant) and a HD radiator cooling fan, new spark plugs and a ECU reflash tune for 322 Hp. Its teh hardware that might be the most helpfull. Or you can buy the 335is radiator fan (from the PPK) to increase your car's cooling ability.

Dackel
335is radiator fan... any issues on installation? I'm assuming you can just remove the old and install the new...
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      09-28-2013, 05:24 AM   #17
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335is radiator fan... any issues on installation? I'm assuming you can just remove the old and install the new...
^^It will also need coding. Don't ask me why, I have only read that it needs to be coded to fully work right.
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      09-28-2013, 01:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyphy1 View Post
335is radiator fan... any issues on installation? I'm assuming you can just remove the old and install the new...
A more powerful fan by its self probably won't help much on the track. It's better for city stop and go traffic. Once the car gets up to speed, say around 40 or so mph air being forced through the radiator takes over and the more powerful fan wouldn't make any difference. Increased cooling capacity, either PPK or a larger or duel oil cooler would probably help more.
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