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      03-13-2013, 11:38 AM   #23
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      03-15-2013, 12:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
I was going to get a Bendpak, but the dealer had a special on a similar Rotary, so I went with that. I will never come close to the 10,000lb capacity. The concrete requirements were the same regardless of the lift capacity with all of the Bendpak models I looked at. The Rotary had exactly the same requirements. I am using an asymmetric lift which allows you to lift with the cars center of gravity behind the posts, which makes it easier to get into and out of the car without the door hitting the post. For me, it also gets the posts out of the way of the workshop area and keeps more open floor space in the garage. I also went with the power and hydraulic connections on top, which avoids having anything on the floor between the posts, which would be a pain if using a cart of tools or a task chair.

The concrete should be level, at least 4.25 inches thick, and rated for 3000psi. Pretty standard. We had it poured 6" throughout just to be sure. You do NOT need rebar, and the installer asked that we not use it at all because it is impossible to drill through. Most garage floors are poured with a slope of 1" per 10 feet, but I made sure mine is level where the lift is. I will need to use a squeegie if there is standing water, but we live in a pretty dry area so I am not worried about it.

It needs a 220 volt power supply.

You need a garage bay at least 24' deep and 14-15' wide. Most lifts want a ceiling height of 11 feet, but there are shorter models.

I downloaded the installation guide and had the builder review it with the electrician and the concrete sub. . . so far everything has gone smoothly. It is getting delivered and installed soon, so I will post an update when its done.
Great info. Thanks!
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      03-29-2013, 11:55 AM   #25
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Drywall hung. The lift installer was up there and verified the location of the posts. I should get the lift delivered this week, but install will wait until the drywall and painting are done so that they can drive their scaffold around.

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      03-30-2013, 02:52 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie
Drywall hung. The lift installer was up there and verified the location of the posts. I should get the lift delivered this week, but install will wait until the drywall and painting are done so that they can drive their scaffold around.

A very nice space! I could live in that "room."
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      03-30-2013, 06:19 AM   #27
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this will look awesome... cant wait for the finished project.
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      03-30-2013, 08:58 AM   #28
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Very very nice garage setup you have going. I want one but I need 4 bays!
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      03-30-2013, 09:25 AM   #29
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My wife has a separate 2-car garage, this whole thing is mine.
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      03-30-2013, 11:18 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
My wife has a separate 2-car garage, this whole thing is mine.
This expression, which is precious for any married man, reminded me the exclusive bathroom of Al Bundy from Married with Children

You need to continue informing us in pictures, everything about this inspirational project.
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      03-30-2013, 11:07 PM   #31
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Subbed for that list earlier.
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      04-23-2013, 09:24 PM   #32
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Lift is installed!





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      04-23-2013, 09:34 PM   #33
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very envious!
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      04-23-2013, 10:08 PM   #34
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Nice! I built myself a brand new garage from the ground up a few years ago, but I neglected the whole lift thing. Congrats -
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      04-24-2013, 02:42 AM   #35
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Quality .....
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      04-24-2013, 07:51 AM   #36
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epic!!
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      04-24-2013, 12:43 PM   #37
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I wish I was that far along in my build. I'm still in the waiting for elevation plans and permits stage. Ugh....
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      04-24-2013, 12:51 PM   #38
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      04-24-2013, 12:56 PM   #39
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That building is already wondering "Who will be the king of my castle" ?
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      04-28-2013, 10:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
I was going to get a Bendpak, but the dealer had a special on a similar Rotary, so I went with that. I will never come close to the 10,000lb capacity. The concrete requirements were the same regardless of the lift capacity with all of the Bendpak models I looked at. The Rotary had exactly the same requirements. I am using an asymmetric lift which allows you to lift with the cars center of gravity behind the posts, which makes it easier to get into and out of the car without the door hitting the post. For me, it also gets the posts out of the way of the workshop area and keeps more open floor space in the garage. I also went with the power and hydraulic connections on top, which avoids having anything on the floor between the posts, which would be a pain if using a cart of tools or a task chair.

The concrete should be level, at least 4.25 inches thick, and rated for 3000psi. Pretty standard. We had it poured 6" throughout just to be sure. You do NOT need rebar, and the installer asked that we not use it at all because it is impossible to drill through. Most garage floors are poured with a slope of 1" per 10 feet, but I made sure mine is level where the lift is. I will need to use a squeegie if there is standing water, but we live in a pretty dry area so I am not worried about it.

It needs a 220 volt power supply.

You need a garage bay at least 24' deep and 14-15' wide. Most lifts want a ceiling height of 11 feet, but there are shorter models.

I downloaded the installation guide and had the builder review it with the electrician and the concrete sub. . . so far everything has gone smoothly. It is getting delivered and installed soon, so I will post an update when its done.
You can drill or core through rebar, it is just harder than going through an un-reinforced slab. If you knew you were putting in a lift you could have laid out the rebar and positioned the lift to avoid interferences.

Also, if you ran the numbers you probably don't need deformed bar reinforcing in the garage floor slab (considered a slab on grade). It is always better to have reinforcing though as it will prevent cracking and adds bending capacity to the slab. There should at least be welded wire fabric (WWF) or fiber reinforcing in the slab though.
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      04-29-2013, 09:39 PM   #41
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We poured the slab 6" throughout that portion of the garage, tapered to 10" thick in a 4'x4' area under each post. It should hold!
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      08-31-2013, 11:49 PM   #42
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OK, it is all done . . . including a really cool BMW logo:
Daytime shot:


Closeup of the logo . . . hand painted by a local artist . . . probably boring work for her, but she did a great job. The builder surprised me with this . . . awesome builder!


Trying it out on the heaviest car I have before lifting the 1M. We were doing some yard work today so I didn't have the 1M with me . . .


Night shot:


Night shot of the work space:
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      08-31-2013, 11:57 PM   #43
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So these two are off topic, but still of interest to car junkies like me. Our house will be in a home show before we move in, and the builder is going to have a car in the garage just to add some character. These are what he has showed up with so far . . . both are owned by a professional acquantance of mine, and he has left them in my house with the keys. Needless to say, my wife and kids got rides. Both are spectacular.

'37 Packard has its original paint, original motor and starts/runs beautifully. Interior has been restored. It has a start button:


'56 Chevy Bel Air, all original paint and interior. Not sure if motor is original. I love a car that has a manual choke under the dash!

Last edited by CarJunkie; 09-04-2013 at 01:02 PM. Reason: correction
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      09-01-2013, 04:26 AM   #44
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now that is a beautiful home/garage .... veeery awesome
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