BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      06-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #67
DriveHard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focusedintntions
Alex i haven't finished reading your post but 135's do have the ducts coming through the bumper into the wheel wells even though we have the cooler htere...it routes around it.
Oops u r right. The other though I have is that 135s have 18s or bigger with offsets that shroud even the f30 plates. I run 17s.
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      06-21-2012, 07:44 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue
great report Alex! I really like the Ferodo's too except for the dust. not as bad as the factory pads though. by now we all know = cool carbon for DD + autox + intermediate pdx, Ferodo's for DD + autox + int/adv pdx. many options for race pads out there, Hawk, PFC, Pagid, carbotech or Ferodo's
Bingo. Everything has its limits.
For those who may wonder how I clean the cross drilled rotors and slots it's simple. A cordless drill with the right size drill bit. Works like a charm when I swap wheels and take a peek at pads and suspension
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      11-27-2012, 08:49 AM   #69
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Good info here!
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      02-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #70
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Bumping this up to see if anyone has had any other ideas to get cooling air to the rotors while running the wide (and wider sometimes) front wheels of the 135.
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      02-26-2013, 07:43 AM   #71
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It would seem that some oil cooler upgrades utilise the brake ducts in the front bumper to help with cooling oil. If this is the case, does that mean we can only cool one aspect and not the other? It would be great if we can effectively cool both oil and brakes in the same setup.
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      02-26-2013, 08:00 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkatron View Post
It would seem that some oil cooler upgrades utilise the brake ducts in the front bumper to help with cooling oil. If this is the case, does that mean we can only cool one aspect and not the other? It would be great if we can effectively cool both oil and brakes in the same setup.
I had noticed this too, which is partly why I was asking if anyone has come up with something better already. If not, I will put my designer and aerodynamicists hat on and try and solve the problem myself.
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      02-26-2013, 09:40 AM   #73
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Best way to do this is to find a way to route some ducting to the rotors.
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      05-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #74
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Have any of you run into issues with your suspension rubbing with the F30 heat shields? While installing my brakes today I noticed this. I was pretty sure I heard those shields rubbing but could not find it till I got the car on a lift.
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      05-05-2013, 01:04 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swadeness View Post
Have any of you run into issues with your suspension rubbing with the F30 heat shields? While installing my brakes today I noticed this. I was pretty sure I heard those shields rubbing but could not find it till I got the car on a lift.
On stock M-Sport suspension I have had no problems with it rubbing.
I did have an issue on one side where it was rubbing against the rotor, but that was easily fixed by just pulling it back and bending it into shape a little. I think I had bent it a tad while installing it.

-m
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      05-05-2013, 02:10 PM   #76
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Wow Wade, that is wierd. I didn't have that issue. Other than that, how did they do?
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      05-05-2013, 02:59 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elsabor67 View Post
Wow Wade, that is wierd. I didn't have that issue. Other than that, how did they do?
They seemed to do fine. I didn't take any temps. I don't have a lot to compare them to since this was the first time at the ring with the new rotors and pads. I worked the brakes pretty hard and never got any fade with the Ferodos, the rotors were definitely hot after a couple of the laps and its hard to tell if it would have been worse with the stockers.

I think the rubbing is a from a combination of the control arms and my alignment.

I'm not sure if I should be concerned about the rubbing. I guess I could bend them or make a small hole where it's rubbing but I'm not sure thats needed. It's strange I didn't notice when I installed them...I thought I looked.
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      05-09-2013, 08:17 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveHard View Post
The little bit i trimmed from the upper right corner
Attachment 661554

...

Use tin snip to cut of about 1 inch of upper right hand corner of plate to clear bracket
I had the mechanic bend the triangle away. No issues with me or the e90post user myE70
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      06-12-2013, 04:23 PM   #79
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Should be noted unless it already has that stock 128i brakes require no trimming of the F30 dust shield.
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      06-12-2013, 06:36 PM   #80
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^^ very cool.
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: e36M lip Wishlist: //M front arm, coils, n55 eng mnt, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff


"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      06-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #81
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Anyone using these with Stoptechs?
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      08-29-2013, 10:28 AM   #82
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So do the oem dust shields come right off without cutting? I thought on older models they were pressed into the hub so you'd need tin snips to remove them.
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      08-31-2013, 12:15 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 Tii View Post
So do the oem dust shields come right off without cutting? I thought on older models they were pressed into the hub so you'd need tin snips to remove them.
my 09/2005 130i- screwed on, popped them off when i fitted the BMWP kit.
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      10-10-2013, 10:58 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Nugget View Post
Anyone using these with Stoptechs?
Just fyi these work fine with the Stoptech 355mm ST-60 kit.
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      04-20-2014, 08:43 PM   #85
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Just completed the right side install (will finish another day--playoff hockey coming on before I'd finish the other side). I was confused on a few parts so I wanted to add my two cents for any others that might be too.

First of all, this is what the final product looks like, before you start reassembling everything. I was never really sure from the OP what section you were supposed to trim and where the new hole needed to go. The red line is approximately the section I cut off. The blue square is the second hole you need to drill.



A few notes on the trimming: my tin snips were crap. I bought "aviation" ones at Harbor Freight because they were a bit more robust, but I might have been better off with the cheaper smaller ones, or maybe should have gone to even bigger heavy duty ones. I ended up using a file to help smooth some of the more jagged edges and also create just a bit more space between the shield and the bracket in case there was any vibration/noise.

Also, the second hole you drill is right against a ridge. This doesn't allow the washer on the screw to sit flush. I used a light hammer to just flatten that section a smidge and then let the screw/washer do the rest when tightening.

The other part I wasn't sure of was the very beginning, because the OP just starts off after removing the rotor. I used this thread to get me to that point: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212459

If you have a wheel hanger pin, you can leave this in for the entire removal/re-install. It was very handy as a handle to keep the rotor from spinning when removing the screw that holds it in place (you can't use the brake because the caliper is off...).

Lastly, the only real snag I hit was getting the caliper back on. The pads may not have enough room to fit over the rotor, so I ended up spreading the brake pads with my fingers, and then just fit it back over the rotor starting at the top and then pivoting it into place. Then just bolt the caliper back in place.

Anyway, hoping to do the other side in the next few days. A test drive with windows down and no vents or radio going also reassured me that the new shields do not generate any sort of added wind noise that I could hear.

Last edited by 02rsxpilot; 04-21-2014 at 12:59 PM.
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      04-21-2014, 10:53 PM   #86
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I did this mod about a year ago, a bit deceived by the pictures I saw that appeared to show that the F30 scoop projected past the inside lip of the wheel. This isn't the case for even the OE 7.5" front wheel.

In any case, here are a few pictures of my installation that may provide some inspiration for others:

1) I marked the new backing plate from the opposite handed original with a transfer punch after first bolting the two together with appropriate spacers to keep things parallel.

Name:  1 Transfer Punch.jpg
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2) At the same time the required trim for the caliper was marked.

Name:  2 Trim.jpg
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Size:  218.8 KB

3) As others have noted the required hole is tight up to a bend radius. I used a Roper Whitney No. 5 punch to make the holes rather than a drill.

Name:  3 Drill.jpg
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4) The backing plate is very soft so I made a simple reforming die out of aluminum to reform the radius to accept a bolt and washer.

Name:  4 Reform.jpg
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5) Here is the plate installed (I was changing wheel bearings at the same time). Note 4th bolt that most others don't use.

Name:  5 Installed.jpg
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Size:  165.8 KB

6) Using the 4th bolt requires making a suitable length spacer, and the bolt only picks up a half-hole. Regardless, it substantially stabilizes the backing plate.

Name:  6 4th Support.jpg
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Size:  172.8 KB

7) As others have noted, there is some interference with one of the ball joints.

Name:  7 Ball Joint Conflict.jpg
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Size:  169.6 KB

8) Here is the affected area.

Name:  8 Area to bump.jpg
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Size:  190.6 KB

9) I bumped this with a ball peen hammer on a shot bag.

Name:  9 Bumped.jpg
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Size:  133.6 KB

10) The conflict is resolved with just a bit of reforming.

Name:  10 Conflict Resolved.jpg
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Size:  163.4 KB

11) This is the view of the plate with an OE 7.5 x 18 wheel.

Name:  11 Scoop.jpg
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12) A more face-on view shows that the scoop does not project past the inside edge of the wheel.

Name:  12 Scoop 2.jpg
Views: 130
Size:  173.7 KB
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