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      06-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #67
DriveHard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focusedintntions
Alex i haven't finished reading your post but 135's do have the ducts coming through the bumper into the wheel wells even though we have the cooler htere...it routes around it.
Oops u r right. The other though I have is that 135s have 18s or bigger with offsets that shroud even the f30 plates. I run 17s.
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      06-21-2012, 07:44 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelblue
great report Alex! I really like the Ferodo's too except for the dust. not as bad as the factory pads though. by now we all know = cool carbon for DD + autox + intermediate pdx, Ferodo's for DD + autox + int/adv pdx. many options for race pads out there, Hawk, PFC, Pagid, carbotech or Ferodo's
Bingo. Everything has its limits.
For those who may wonder how I clean the cross drilled rotors and slots it's simple. A cordless drill with the right size drill bit. Works like a charm when I swap wheels and take a peek at pads and suspension
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      11-27-2012, 08:49 AM   #69
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Good info here!
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      02-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #70
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Bumping this up to see if anyone has had any other ideas to get cooling air to the rotors while running the wide (and wider sometimes) front wheels of the 135.
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      02-26-2013, 07:43 AM   #71
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It would seem that some oil cooler upgrades utilise the brake ducts in the front bumper to help with cooling oil. If this is the case, does that mean we can only cool one aspect and not the other? It would be great if we can effectively cool both oil and brakes in the same setup.
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      02-26-2013, 08:00 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkatron View Post
It would seem that some oil cooler upgrades utilise the brake ducts in the front bumper to help with cooling oil. If this is the case, does that mean we can only cool one aspect and not the other? It would be great if we can effectively cool both oil and brakes in the same setup.
I had noticed this too, which is partly why I was asking if anyone has come up with something better already. If not, I will put my designer and aerodynamicists hat on and try and solve the problem myself.
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      02-26-2013, 09:40 AM   #73
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Best way to do this is to find a way to route some ducting to the rotors.
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      05-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #74
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Have any of you run into issues with your suspension rubbing with the F30 heat shields? While installing my brakes today I noticed this. I was pretty sure I heard those shields rubbing but could not find it till I got the car on a lift.
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      05-05-2013, 01:04 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swadeness View Post
Have any of you run into issues with your suspension rubbing with the F30 heat shields? While installing my brakes today I noticed this. I was pretty sure I heard those shields rubbing but could not find it till I got the car on a lift.
On stock M-Sport suspension I have had no problems with it rubbing.
I did have an issue on one side where it was rubbing against the rotor, but that was easily fixed by just pulling it back and bending it into shape a little. I think I had bent it a tad while installing it.

-m
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      05-05-2013, 02:10 PM   #76
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Wow Wade, that is wierd. I didn't have that issue. Other than that, how did they do?
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      05-05-2013, 02:59 PM   #77
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Wow Wade, that is wierd. I didn't have that issue. Other than that, how did they do?
They seemed to do fine. I didn't take any temps. I don't have a lot to compare them to since this was the first time at the ring with the new rotors and pads. I worked the brakes pretty hard and never got any fade with the Ferodos, the rotors were definitely hot after a couple of the laps and its hard to tell if it would have been worse with the stockers.

I think the rubbing is a from a combination of the control arms and my alignment.

I'm not sure if I should be concerned about the rubbing. I guess I could bend them or make a small hole where it's rubbing but I'm not sure thats needed. It's strange I didn't notice when I installed them...I thought I looked.
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      05-09-2013, 08:17 PM   #78
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The little bit i trimmed from the upper right corner
Attachment 661554

...

Use tin snip to cut of about 1 inch of upper right hand corner of plate to clear bracket
I had the mechanic bend the triangle away. No issues with me or the e90post user myE70
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      06-12-2013, 04:23 PM   #79
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Should be noted unless it already has that stock 128i brakes require no trimming of the F30 dust shield.
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      06-12-2013, 06:36 PM   #80
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^^ very cool.
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"The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is
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      06-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #81
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Anyone using these with Stoptechs?
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      08-29-2013, 10:28 AM   #82
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So do the oem dust shields come right off without cutting? I thought on older models they were pressed into the hub so you'd need tin snips to remove them.
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      08-31-2013, 12:15 AM   #83
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So do the oem dust shields come right off without cutting? I thought on older models they were pressed into the hub so you'd need tin snips to remove them.
my 09/2005 130i- screwed on, popped them off when i fitted the BMWP kit.
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      10-10-2013, 10:58 PM   #84
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Anyone using these with Stoptechs?
Just fyi these work fine with the Stoptech 355mm ST-60 kit.
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