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      11-01-2013, 12:32 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by 3002 Tii View Post
you rubbing on 235 has nothing to do with the fact its a 235, but the fact you are running a 40 profile. a 235/40 is TALLER than a 255/35-18.
Agreed, however with enough work everything can be solved. I run a 245/40 upfront with zero rubbing ever.
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      11-05-2013, 03:23 PM   #46
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I run a 245/35/18 PSS on an apex arc8 and I needed camber plates not to rub.....how are you not rubbing I'm at -1.9
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      11-05-2013, 05:43 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by bluephobic(1) View Post
I run a 245/35/18 PSS on an apex arc8 and I needed camber plates not to rub.....how are you not rubbing I'm at -1.9
I shaved the fender/bumper connection as far as it will go, while still being able to mount the bolt holding the two pieces together. Pulled and rolled the fenders and have Dinan plates along with M3 front suspension.
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      11-06-2013, 11:52 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stohlen View Post
I shaved the fender/bumper connection as far as it will go, while still being able to mount the bolt holding the two pieces together. Pulled and rolled the fenders and have Dinan plates along with M3 front suspension.
Ahaaaa sneaky...can you offer up a comparison of the dinan plates vs any other plates as far as NVH levels?
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      11-06-2013, 05:26 PM   #49
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Ahaaaa sneaky...can you offer up a comparison of the dinan plates vs any other plates as far as NVH levels?
Dinan plates are completely silent. Mostly because there is zero adjust-ability, so nothing to rattle.
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      11-13-2013, 08:28 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stohlen View Post
Dinan plates are completely silent. Mostly because there is zero adjust-ability, so nothing to rattle.
Hmmmm interesting i may have to look into these when i go back to my summer setup
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      11-25-2013, 10:25 PM   #51
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Dont want to open a new thread, so decided to post this question:

Running on stock suspension, stock 261 style wheels (18x7.5 and 18x8.5) and Bridgestone 225/40 and 255/35 Potenza RE-11 tires now. When they wear out, Im thinking about going wider, with Hankook RS-3 + ARC-8 or EC-7 for dedicated track set up.

I have GC camber Street plates and M3 control arms in the front. During lapping season, I set my front for max -3.2* camber in front, while rear is fixed at -1.6* all year long.

I set up the front this way to reduce understeer, and outside tire wear.

Debating whether to order APEX 18x8.5 wheels for square 255/35fr setup, versus staggered 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 with 255/35f and 275/35r or 285/35r, for use on the track. Goal is to increase adherence, and to keep the car as neutral as possible.

Im on stock M sport springs and dampers, and not looking to upgrade in the near future.
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      11-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Dont want to open a new thread, so decided to post this question:

Running on stock suspension, stock 261 style wheels (18x7.5 and 18x8.5) and Bridgestone 225/40 and 255/35 Potenza RE-11 tires now. When they wear out, Im thinking about going wider, with Hankook RS-3 + ARC-8 or EC-7 for dedicated track set up.

I have GC camber Street plates and M3 control arms in the front. During lapping season, I set my front for max -3.2* camber in front, while rear is fixed at -1.6* all year long.

I set up the front this way to reduce understeer, and outside tire wear.

Debating whether to order APEX 18x8.5 wheels for square 255/35fr setup, versus staggered 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 with 255/35f and 275/35r or 285/35r, for use on the track. Goal is to increase adherence, and to keep the car as neutral as possible.

Im on stock M sport springs and dampers, and not looking to upgrade in the near future.
You didn't really ask a question. I'm assuming you're looking for advice on which would be better.

In this case, I'd say if you're more of a less experienced track driver and do it often, go with the square setup. Your car will be more balanced and easier to drive at the limit. However if you're more experienced or drive the car agressively on the street often.. go with the wider rear tires to get better traction under full throttle.
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      11-26-2013, 09:23 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stohlen View Post
You didn't really ask a question. I'm assuming you're looking for advice on which would be better.
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stohlen View Post
In this case, I'd say if you're more of a less experienced track driver and do it often, go with the square setup. Your car will be more balanced and easier to drive at the limit. However if you're more experienced or drive the car aggressively on the street often.. go with the wider rear tires to get better traction under full throttle.
I fit in both of these categories, but setup is geared for track. I did manage to get the rear end loose, and spin out a few times on the track with my current setup. Some of this drama can probably be associated to my lack of experience, type of tires, driving too aggressively on cold tires, lifting off throttle during a high speed turn, or just plain over driving the car. The rear end is hard to catch on this short wheelbase car once it breaks loose. Never ran into this problem on previous rear-wheel drive cars.

I wonder if a square wheel setup will aggravate the oversteer.

Wouldn't wider rubber in the back help reduce oversteer? Could I have upset the balance of the car with the aggressive negative camber in front (-3.2*)? Maybe I could dial in more toe-in, in the rear (camber is already maxed at -1.6*).
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 11-26-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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      11-26-2013, 09:50 AM   #54
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Did those previous cars have an LSD? Because they help immensely. It's almost impossible to loose the back end on my 135i with an LSD.

Wider tires would absolutely help with oversteer problems. Most people will tell you to go square because it eliminates understeer. But the understeer is still there, it's just masked by the fact that the rear tires loose grip at the same time making the car feel neutral, easier to drive but not necessarily faster.
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      11-26-2013, 12:49 PM   #55
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Plus one on that. Fit the biggest wheels tire from and rear and tune the suspension to get rid of under steer
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      11-26-2013, 04:33 PM   #56
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Thanks Guys.

Two of my previous RWD cars had LSD (E46/M3 and E39/M5), one of them did not (E46/328i). You have a point, as I probably benfitted from the LSD, more than I realize.

Sounds like larger staggered Apex wheels (18x8.5f and 18x9.5r) is the way to go in my scenario. Ive done a lot to the front already, and may add a stiffer E92 M3 sway bar to complement M3 control arms, adjustable camber plates, and eventual wider wheels + tires.

LSD is a lot of $$$ for me, which I dont know if I want to invest just yet. I may jump ship, and be tempted by a pre-owned ///M car in the so distant future ...
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 11-26-2013 at 04:39 PM.
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