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      01-21-2010, 06:07 PM   #1
bitcore
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Exclamation Battery Clamp - Airbag light - Can't reset w/BT tool!

Ok, so I've removed that ridiculous battery clamp/fuse block nonsense because I need some serious current for a sub install.
If you disassemble it, you'll find that all of the electrical current for the auxiliary fuses (where most people are attaching their amplifier wire to) has to flow through one rivet through a two sheets of aluminum that are in loose contact. I don't like that. Instead, I sourced some ANL fuses (150A and 250A if I remember correctly) & holders for the existing two ~4-6 gauge cables. I have also replaced the entire battery clamp with one that has three 0-gauge outputs. Somewhat overkill, but I want it like that. I now have one completely unused 0-gauge port that I can use for my amp or additional battery link-ups, and the existing wiring has an even better connection to the battery - Excellent.

Now come the airbag warning lamp shenanigans. There's a yellow and black cable connecting to what I can only assume is simply an electrical trigger for the explosive battery clamp. I've opted to leave the battery clamp attached to that connector so as not to trigger codes. No problem thus far. I, regrettably and for whatever reason, decided to completely remove the clamp from the car - it weighs a couple pounds and I'd rather not have an explosive device that's not installed at all, still ready to go off in my car. Take a guess: it threw a code..... Duuuuhh. Ok, no big deal, I thought - reconnect it and clear the codes with my handy dandy BT cable. I'll deal with the fallout of it going off in my battery compartment if I do get in a wreck if it happens. No dice.

I've tried everything. Any combination of disconnect/reconnecting the yellow/black cable with neg terminal disconnected or connected, Feeding +12v from the battery terminal thinking the clamp was designed to always be at +12V... No matter what I do to try and clear this code, BT cable refuses to clear it and says:
"93B2
ZK10 / Security battery clamp
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed"

Unless the yellow wire is a DATA cable [black probably being ground], and there is a built-in ammeter into that stupid battery clamp and the computer expects to see a specific level of current draw, I see NO way for the computer to know that the clamp isn't *actually* on the battery post.


No matter what I've tried: "Error is currently present." I've lost some faith in the ability of the BT tool to actually do anything useful. Dealer wont do anything because of 'liability' issues. They've already replaced a fuel pump on my car in this condition and talked to me about it, and they don't really care, but wont help me clear the codes.

And before any safety nannies come in and tell me to reattach the battery clamp, don't even bother saying anything. Been there, done that. Additionally, I don't care if my car catches fire because I was in an accident serious enough to erupt fuel everywhere with exposed, arcing wiring. It's going to be totaled anyways, and if I'm passed out but alive, and die as a consequence - then I guess it's my time to die. If insurance denies a claim for whatever situation that could arise from bypassing the fancy-clamp, then so be it - it's a risk I'm at home with. Millions of other cars don't have it, and most batteries are in the engine bay where it's even MORE likely to cause problems.

Any suggestions?
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      01-28-2010, 11:55 AM   #2
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Update:
I've gone down to Mann Motorsports (http://www.tmannmotorsports.com/page/3394, cheezey website but they are great guys) today and one of Tonys guys hooked up their new Autologic computer to my car, and it wouldn't clear the codes either.

The dealership I go to and have spoken with want me to buy a new BST (Battery Safety Terminal). The one I have should be perfectly fine though.

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      01-28-2010, 12:30 PM   #3
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Can anyone else with a BT cable tell me the resistance reading on their car for the battery terminal? You can find it in the Multiple Restraint module->Actual values, and it's very near the bottom - labeled as battery clamp. Mine reads around 0.17 ohms when it is plugged in, and only goes up to 2.6 ohms when disconnected. (don't bother disconnecting the cable to give me a reading on that, I don't want anyone else to have to go to a dealership to get this crap fixed too)
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      01-28-2010, 08:32 PM   #4
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When I had my E90 A light on, an independent shop reset it for me in 5 minutes, but most shop's tools won't get into airbag modules.
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      01-29-2010, 10:07 AM   #5
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Well, like I said, I've tried the BT tool, and the autologic to no avail. I'm about to admit defeat on this thing and consider this car a modder's nightmare for anything other than horsepower.

Welded ring gear, wimpy fuel pump, no stock LSD options at all, an audio system that's heavily integrated and non standard (must get weird adapter faceplate to mount a new head unit, and who knows what happens when you remove the stock one), logic 7 optical if you have the premium audio - good luck tapping a signal out of that before the amp - no products are actually out to do that. [/rant]
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      01-29-2010, 10:52 AM   #6
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You should read Technic's posts on the E90 AV section showing how to use Autologic and a Metra harness to get analog outs from your Logic-7 coded HU.

If the Autologic wasn't SRS-loaded, it wouldn't have been able to do that.

I don't know what tool my local shop used. They are Motorsports International in Beaverton OR if you want to call them and nicely ask them which gear setup they used to reset a 2007 E91 SRS light.
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      02-05-2010, 10:44 PM   #7
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Allright, I admitted defeat, and bought a new BST, and installed it.

BT cable still refuses to clear the code.
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      02-18-2010, 06:48 PM   #8
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SOLVED.

The connector was *STILL* shorting out when re-attatching the connector. Normal fix would be to replace the cable, but it is extremely expensive for what it actually is.
Hack way to get it to work is to shim the shorting pins just a bit to raise them off of the pins that are on the BST. Just layer a piece of electrical tape on the 'top' side of the connector that plugs into the BST. Be careful, you don't want any ESD (Electro-Static Discharge). I would advise that you work on this in high humidity to reduce chances of an ESD setting off the BST in your hands and in-front of your face.

This works with both the replacement BST I installed, and the BST that came with my car - even if it is not attached to the positive terminal.

BT cable cleared the code after this was fixed. I spoke to a BMW tech about the connector and the resistance needs to be within a range of about 2-4 ohms, otherwise the system raises a fault code.
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      11-19-2010, 02:59 AM   #9
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Taking up an odl thread..

Hello BitCore..

I know that it's an old threat, but I will try anyway..
I didn't realy understood where to put the shim/electrictape..
Could you show it with some pics?

It is not mine BST but it looks the same..
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      11-29-2010, 08:33 PM   #10
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Can you tell me where you purchased this stupid BST replacement? The only one I can find is 500.
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      11-30-2010, 11:58 AM   #11
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Please see the picture I have just posted. The arrows point to a wire/sensor that is for whatever reason disconnected. I am guessing this could be the reason my light is on. I tried every which way to get it back in the hole (that's what she said) and it will not work. Please help!
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      05-18-2013, 07:37 AM   #12
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There's actually a recall on the BST, the dealership may fix it for you for free.
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      07-28-2013, 03:55 PM   #13
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For those of you whom are out of warranty, but still are having issues:
The shim I speak of is on the clip that the black and yellow twisted wires connect to on the BST.

There is a metal clip on the BST that shorts the ignition pins so that there is no chance of an electrical discharge - which could accidentally sett off the BST explosive charge in your hands. There are contacts on the BST connector that the shorting pins will also touch and short during insertion. The problem is there isa shield that covers the contacts on the plug that I believe gets broken off (or is very easily broken) if you have un-hooked the connector to the BST. This makes the connector and thusly the pins on the BST short out and remain inoperable, which will throw a code and not allow the BST to operate.

The way I fixed this: I took a thin piece of electrical tape, (and maybe also thin slice of un-corrugated cardboard for structural rigidity) and taped it over the shorting contacts on the plug. So, when you insert the BST signal cable fully, the connection isn't shorted, and the BST will operate normally.

The CORRECT way to fix this would be to order a new cable, and replace it in the wiring loom. That's expensive and laborious, as you could imagine. An alternate solution is to just replace the plug (which may not be sold separately, though I could be mistaken).

I assume no accountability for this advice, as the ESD Discharge protection that these shorting pins provide will be defeated by my method - which is only applicable during the removal or insertion of the plug. Once it's inserted, everything's safe.

So: Do this when it's humid out, don't wear synthetic clothing, and always be grounded to the car (touch bare metal on the car before and during the insertion)
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      01-29-2014, 09:07 PM   #14
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Thumbs up

Bitcore - Thank you!!!

I experienced the same issues as you after a local auto parts guy replaced my battery. I couldn't get the code to go away with by BT cable. I read your post and was able to apply your fix successfully. I am so relieved that I avoided a $500+ cable replacement at the dealer.

Thanks again for sharing your fix!!!
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      02-05-2014, 02:35 PM   #15
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This is pretty much a grammatical thing but when you said you couldn't clear the code with the BT tool I think you weren't exactly right. What you meant is that you told the BT tool to clear the code and it was still there. What I think happened is the BT tool issued the command to clear the code but the condition that it was alerting you to was still present so the car threw the code again. For lots of conditions, the car response is not that quick. But it makes sense for an electrical issue to be essentially instantaneous.

The code tool doesn't fix anything, of course, it just resets the check engine light. If the condition isn't fixed, the light comes back. This light came back very quickly.

Jim
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      02-05-2014, 07:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
This is pretty much a grammatical thing but when you said you couldn't clear the code with the BT tool I think you weren't exactly right. What you meant is that you told the BT tool to clear the code and it was still there. What I think happened is the BT tool issued the command to clear the code but the condition that it was alerting you to was still present so the car threw the code again. For lots of conditions, the car response is not that quick. But it makes sense for an electrical issue to be essentially instantaneous.

The code tool doesn't fix anything, of course, it just resets the check engine light. If the condition isn't fixed, the light comes back. This light came back very quickly.

Jim
Indeed it does come back immediately if the fault is still present, or rather, never goes away in the first place.
IIRC I still had to go to the dealership at the time. The BT software was a bit buggier than it is now as well.
I suppose if you have a BT tool, give it a shot. If it doesn't work, it either means that you haven't actually cleared the fault code inducing condition - or the BT tool is still buggy and you have to go to dealer. I lucked out and went to the dealer for unrelated issues, and they did it without questioning.
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      02-06-2014, 08:49 AM   #17
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I wasn't really trying to comment on the BT tool. I don't have it and I don't know if it is a good system or not. I was just commenting on how the codes are posted and cleared. I use a cheap HF reader sometimes but more recently have used Torque on a Samsung tablet and a OBDII to bluetooth adapter to read and clear codes. I haven't gotten any codes on my bimmer, I'd done this on a Suzuki and a couple Toyotas in the last year. I've also done it on at least one Mazda and a Plymouth that was so old it was OBDI (so it's a different process).

I also have and have used NCSExpert and I understand INPA will read and clear codes but I've never tried it. My other devices are easier to use. My main use for NCSExpert was to get my top to go up and down with the remote (I don't have comfort access).
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      02-07-2014, 07:06 PM   #18
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The BT tool works, but it's PC software is a bit buggy. as a package, it's ok and gets the job done. Often it will hog an entire CPU thread for no apparent reason, not auto-detect the vehicle consistently, small things.
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