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      11-11-2017, 06:18 PM   #45
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Hi folks, this CP failure rate has me worried lol..what's the best replacement to get ? and where from ? i'm UK central. Thank you
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      11-11-2017, 11:17 PM   #46
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Generally people seem to be happy with Evolution Racewerks chargepipe. These can be bought direct or perhaps via Harold @ HP autowerks. VRSF also seems to be a popular and less expensive alternative.
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      01-04-2018, 07:33 AM   #47
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What solutions are you guys using for DV clearance on the ER CP?
I've put a patch of adhesive backed velcro on the offending area with additional velcro strips on top. After 200km, it's almost rubbed entirely through the top layer
Is your dynamat still holding up fine?
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      01-04-2018, 01:10 PM   #48
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I found that experimenting w/orientation of the silicone couplers with a bunch of trial/error was all that was needed to avoid contact.
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      01-04-2018, 06:06 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster View Post
just made my self dizzy looking at options here as well.
I want to keep this similar to stock.

I may get an intake.. a tune.. and at most a downpile in the future.. but really have very little plans to dial up the boost other than a mild tune.

Strongly considering the ER charge pipe.. unsure on the DV....

Also considering an AFE intake - " while in there "
As an update... I id get this completed.. i think i commented in another thread and even posted photos.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
I found that experimenting w/orientation of the silicone couplers with a bunch of trial/error was all that was needed to avoid contact.
agreed.. I ended up having a friend over to kinda help me sort out the directions of the silicone couplers and i don't believe I will have any issues with contact at all .

I kept the stock diverter valves as they have been fine.
I went with the ER pipe anodized and with one bung for possible future
I decided to keep the factory intake setup as well.
I am VERY happy with the ER charge pipe, and the car definitely feels quicker now.
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      01-12-2018, 10:46 AM   #50
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I used the dynamat as well. It does ok, but Iím worried itís going to leave some serious residue when I go to take it off. @gmx I have a ton of it left just sitting around, PM me if you want me to cut off a piece and send it your way.

The bigger issue is the vibration. When the cars idleing, the diverter valve just rattles against the wheel well. While the dynamat deadened that noise a little, itís still very prominent. Next time Iím in for a service or mod Iíll see if I canít get someone to adjust the couplers per the suggestions above.

Last edited by griz31; 01-12-2018 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Grammar
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      01-12-2018, 02:03 PM   #51
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One of the silicone couplers is right-angle-shaped with different length limbs, and one is straight. IIRC I ended up sticking the stubby end of the right-angle connector onto the CP on the bung closest to the strut tower and I think that positioned the DV far enough away to prevent contact.
I had gone as far as ordering a longer straight coupler off amazon but ended up not using it.
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      01-12-2018, 02:41 PM   #52
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Is there any risk to driving for a couple days without a charge pipe / with one that failed. I know the car will be in limp mode and will not have any boost, but just curious if/when this thing goes if it is pull over immediately and have it towed issue or finish your ride to work in the AM, drive it home from wherever you are and order the part kind of issue.
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      01-12-2018, 05:09 PM   #53
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The risks would be related to unfiltered air and any particles that make it into/through the throttle body.

There was a guy several years back whose engine grenaded - BMW denied warranty replacement and blamed the engine failure on aftermarket chargepipe install ingested bolt.
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      01-15-2018, 03:44 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
The risks would be related to unfiltered air and any particles that make it into/through the throttle body.

There was a guy several years back whose engine grenaded - BMW denied warranty replacement and blamed the engine failure on aftermarket chargepipe install ingested bolt.
Yes, I believe it was Dan Parker. Many years back when I worked for Nissan's IMSA GTP prgoram in the Dyno/Test department. We had a engine explode and we later found someone left a small wrench in or near the intake while changing something. The wrench got sucked into the turbo shattering the impeller. The impeller shattered and got sucked into the engine which blew that whole thing up. The cool thing was the damaged wrench was recovered and I believe it still had the onwer's initials on. : )

So yes, when you're dealing with intake stuff, if it blew apart, the safest route is to shut down immediately so as not to suck anything into the engine as this part is past the air filter.
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      01-15-2018, 03:47 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh (PA) View Post
Is there any risk to driving for a couple days without a charge pipe / with one that failed. I know the car will be in limp mode and will not have any boost, but just curious if/when this thing goes if it is pull over immediately and have it towed issue or finish your ride to work in the AM, drive it home from wherever you are and order the part kind of issue.
Stop engine immediately and get towed.
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      01-31-2018, 04:57 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh (PA) View Post
Is there any risk to driving for a couple days without a charge pipe / with one that failed. I know the car will be in limp mode and will not have any boost, but just curious if/when this thing goes if it is pull over immediately and have it towed issue or finish your ride to work in the AM, drive it home from wherever you are and order the part kind of issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nachob View Post
Stop engine immediately and get towed.

Stop and get towed is certainly wonderful advice, although perhaps not practical in some instances.

Josh, I had my charge pipe fail about 75 miles from home on one occasion, and I have had a friend that had his fail at a track around 3 hours (18-200 miles from home). In each instances we were able to start the car up and drive home. If you stay out of the throttle and accelerate mildly then you should be able to even complete the full trip without the Check engine light glowing..

Is there a POSSIBILITY you could get some debris in the intake? Sure.. just make sure no wrenches are under the hood..
Seriously though.. the potential for damage is extremely LOW unless you are driving through a field of hay or driving across a beach.

I've seen guys put their car on a Dyno machine and remove the air filter for a couple of full on pulls.. And then drive their car for years later.

I would NOT recommend limping the car around indefinitely, or COMMUTING ON A DAILY BASIS . but I would ABSOLUTELY say one can and should continue their trip home. .. I certainly have twice and would do it again.

Basically I would assess this risk as the same as turning on the car to find it a quart low. again.. Stop and get a tow is certainly an option.. but I certainly wouldn't have a problem starting my own car up and driving to autozone for a quart of oil and then add it.
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      03-23-2018, 06:36 AM   #57
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Now my chargepipe (ER) popped off from the other end!

Original one cracked at the throttle body and now the ER popped off on the intercooler connection side

Looks to all be intact and just needs to be reconnected, but seems like Iím having a hard time keeping this piece on the car
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      03-23-2018, 01:13 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griz31 View Post
Now my chargepipe (ER) popped off from the other end!

Original one cracked at the throttle body and now the ER popped off on the intercooler connection side

Looks to all be intact and just needs to be reconnected, but seems like Iím having a hard time keeping this piece on the car
This happened to me on my initial install (the ER is unlikely to pop off at the throttle body since it uses the C-clip which is pretty sturdy.) On the intercooler side I think you just have to crank down on the hose clamp a bit more than you think is enough. That's what I ended up doing with a T-bolt clamp.
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      03-25-2018, 09:35 PM   #59
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What intercooler are you using? Some will slightly alter the up pipe to the cp.

Make sure the pipe is seated square on the cp otherwise it will always pop off or at the very least, leak. Tight or not.

I also cut off the alternator bolt, it seems to cause more misalignment than I liked.
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      03-26-2018, 07:35 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmx View Post
What intercooler are you using? Some will slightly alter the up pipe to the cp.

Make sure the pipe is seated square on the cp otherwise it will always pop off or at the very least, leak. Tight or not.

I also cut off the alternator bolt, it seems to cause more misalignment than I liked.
Everything other than the CP is stock. Iíll keep an eye on it and take a look at your suggestions if it happens again. Luckily itís a pretty easy fix.
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      04-23-2018, 03:32 AM   #61
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Charge Pipe blow out & alot of codes

While driving through some curvy hills, the car suddenly up shifted after an audible "pop". As I tried to make it up the small hill to get to a wide spot to pull over the car stopped having any throttle response and began surging. Then the i drive just started lighting up with "DSC Malfunction, DBC Malfunction, Start-Off Assistance Inactive" as well as a bunch of fault codes I pulled with my little generic android reader for the throttle body and misfires. My main concern is, are the DSC, DBC, and Start-Off Assistance Connected or is that a whole other bag of problems that will need addressed once the charge pipe comes in the mail and installed.
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      04-23-2018, 07:46 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRG_135 View Post
What kind of warranty? My dealership said that no warranty company (including mine, ASG) would cover it. $700 out of my wallet........
Even Warranty Direct, a company I hope to never have the misfortune of dealing with again, covered the charge pipe on my E90 335i. If you have an aftermarket or CPO warranty, carefully read through the coverage. I'd be surprised if it wasn't covered.
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      04-26-2018, 10:16 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhicks223 View Post
While driving through some curvy hills, the car suddenly up shifted after an audible "pop". As I tried to make it up the small hill to get to a wide spot to pull over the car stopped having any throttle response and began surging. Then the i drive just started lighting up with "DSC Malfunction, DBC Malfunction, Start-Off Assistance Inactive" as well as a bunch of fault codes I pulled with my little generic android reader for the throttle body and misfires. My main concern is, are the DSC, DBC, and Start-Off Assistance Connected or is that a whole other bag of problems that will need addressed once the charge pipe comes in the mail and installed.
I have had all that crap happen before and they usually go away after a few start/stop cycles, as long as the original problem is solved. My guess is the ECU became overwhelmed when the CP blew and lots of codes were briefly triggered. If you have a good code reader, it will distinguish between p for present and h for history. If the codes have all changed to h codes, the problem is gone.
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